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Cornwalls Refurb/Restoration/Update Nearly Done.....


syzygy

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Colterphoto had K-77-Ms for sale not long ago. IIRC he had several of them.

big square boxes, you can veneer them with anything you want. see www.certainlywood.com and there's a host of others. Various maple veneers are inexpensive and some are knockout gorgeous. Birdseye and tigerstripe are popular. Keep in mind that you have to do the front edges too. I'll see if I can find a link to the snowflake cherry set I did.

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That looks tempting..seems like a perfect match to the KSP. Have you seen it in person? Right now waiting for the CT125's to arrive. [*-)] With what I got for the dead K-77's ($65), and the BING discount it was less than $100 for the crites.

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syzygy, a fellow at the factory in Hope (who worked on the KSP line) told me about it being sapele. My speakers have a few dings and scrapes (they were floor models), and I've always thought it would be nice to get them fixed up. I haven't researched the finish, though. I've seen sapele in person (although not this particular brand of veneer), and it's the right stuff. "Ribbon sapele" to be more precise.

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I would try fixing the stock cabinets first by trying the folowing...

bleach the black water marks with houshold bleach,if thats does'nt work use wood bleach.

sand lightly with 120 sanpaper thne work up to 220 rember lightly dont go to deep.

use watco oil with color you like

fill the deep marks and scratches in with burn in sticks, look it up on you tube.

good luck

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am making progress and the wood bleach helped. I have one spot left 6' in diameter with hwat looks like water or mold damge. Nothin will touch it and its deep. Any suggestions? The discoloration in this area is pretty dark.

Also, one riser has lost a significant amount of outer birch layer. Where can I get a pirece thats at least close to a match? If its not too hard I may even consider putting a new top on one speaker?

Thaks guys.

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Can you send an updated picture of the problem? Maybe someone out there has an idea that will work. A good refinishing solvent (50/50 lacquer thinner/denatured alcohol) will break down the existing finish and allow you to blend it into the problem area. Then, a good stain will reduce the blotchiness even further. I have the same Cornwalls and I am just finishing the cabinet refinishing now. Here's the link:

http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/124427.aspx

Good Luck!

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

UPDATE

B-3 Crossovers Updated thanks to Crites and Harry O for a nice clean install of the kit. Sound is "better," especially in the mid and highs. Better blend of the tweeter and mid. Harry specially configured the crossover to accommodate the Crites tweeters and it is seamless now. Updated crossover "clean up" the sound as well IMHO. Especially at lower listening levels, the detail and clarity appears improved.

Old caps were visibly leaking and FWIW I would recommend owners to update thier B-3 , if you want the full potential of the speakers to be heard.

Also, installed Klipsch 5-way posts. This will allow for use of tara labs rsc cables but I wanted to see the crossover change first and let them break in before adding cables.

Marantz 1120 still kicking out the jams with no problems.

Up Next:

Buying or building risers to replace mine which are about done. Any suggestions on building them, or risers for sale/trade, I would love to hear from you.

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This is the problem area. I am looking to keep the birch raw and smooth for right now. Is anything recommended to use on the raw birch just to keep it clean?

I have used oxalic acid (wood bleach) in the past to lighten stains. Be sure to apply to the whole top so that it lightens evenly.

After letting the wood dry for a couple of days you could apply a light stain to even give the wood some character. Just wipe it off quickly and you will hardly notice a change in color.

You should still seal the wood even if you want to keep them au naturale. Minwax sells a surface stabilizer designed for soft woods to prevent stains from looking uneven. One coat should do. This will prevent the grain from raising as moisture gets into it. After applying the stabilizer I like to hand sand the surface to knock down the grain. I use 600 wet/dry paper with lemon oil. As you sand you will feel the surface become smooth and then it's just a matter of wiping them down with a cloth to remove the excess oil.

As a final coat you can always apply a couple of coats of beeswax like Antiqwax or Briwax just to protect it from the elements.

Maintenance is simply a coat of wax every six months.

Hope this helps!

Herb

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