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new Caps for my 1964 Heresy Speakers


MrMonster

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Hello All I posted in the past onidentifying my Heresy's They are 1964 Heresy's serial number 12 and 13 with the woven cane grills.

They do sound very good, but I do notice a somewhat dull spot overall when playing vinyl.

I am no stranger to recapping, as I did my 2 Sansui receivers at 90 caps each and my Pioneer HPM 100's

But I was fore warned and for armed on those projects, and I need some help in order to do my Heresy's. It is really cramped in there, and there is a transformer in the mix, so any help for a parts list and the removal of the X over to install the caps would be of great help.

Thanks,

Donald bowman

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It's cake. There's plenty of room. You'll need to know what network you have, but I'll bet it's this one.

Type%20C%20Heresy%20A.JPG

I like Hovland Musicaps, they may be tough to find as they just closed the doors. Solen fastcaps are good, too and cheaper. Build the network like original, but when you're done, reverse the leads on the woofer, so it will be similar to the Type E, see the attached Dope from Hope.

DfH Type E.pdf

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I would (did). The only difference between a Type C and a Type E is the size of the squawker cap, the tap positions on the T2A (requiring the cap change) and the polarity of the squawker and tweeter. The polarity change was not due to a problem in the Type D, but the result of a 90 deg. phase shift due to a single cap in the high pass of each horn, plus the 90 deg phase shift a horn causes in relation to a direct radiator woofer.

Changing the woofer polarity is just easier.

post-2142-13819499502818_thumb.jpg

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Yes, the problem with the Type D network was that if you connected everything the way indicated on the plate, the woofer wound up in reversed phase from that which yielded the optimal results.

Wow, I guess PWK was totally clueless for the 10 or so years the Type C network was in use...

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Hello Lads,

thank you all for ringing in on the new caps for my Herey's, but after opening the backs, and scratching my head I don't see any traditional capacitors.

The network info plate is marked tyep 4 B. there are two large coils, of which one is maked 0.5 MH a transformer and the network itsel

There are two aluminum components that are about 2 inches square, theat I will have to remove to read, but that's it for any componenets

The drivers are marked ..

Tweeter K-77

Mid K-55

Woofer K-22

The aluminum packs will need to be removed to read, as the info is stamped into the case.

So any input on this?

Thanks,

Donald Bowman

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The square metal packs are the capacitors. With the two inductors and an autotransformer, sounds like you have one of the K-1000-5000 type crossovers. The crossover type should be somewhere in the crossover. Likely on the edge of the board near the terminal strip. Are you saying that this one you have says it is a Type 4B?

Bob Crites

post-9312-13819499506612_thumb.jpg

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Well, I thought originally you would probably have a type C crossover. Not that one anyway. 4R could be the type, but I don't have a schematic for that one. All you really have to do is read the values from the two capacitors and that will let you know what you need to get to replace them. I will guess one of them is a 2 uF and with slightly less confidence, I will guess the other one is a 1 uF. You should be able to read what the value is somewhere on the caps. Every time I think that surely I have seen every old Klipsch crossover, someone shows me another one.

Bob Crites

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The drivers are the same as my H700 with Type C network. The tap points on the autoformer (on the right) are 1 and 2, the same as a Type C network. That means the caps should be 1 uF and 2 uF. The cap size corroborates that. The second inductor MAY mean there is a bandpass filter on the squawker. I can't follow the wires. I'd call Klipsch to see itf they'll give you a schematic for those networks. Explain what you are doing; I bet they will.

The tap setting means the speaker will have a nearly flat frequency response, unlike Type E Heresies. K-77s have a sensitivity of 105 dB/w/m; tap 2 drops that to 96 dB. K-55-Vs are 107 dB; tap 1 drops that to 95 dB. Eighties era K-22s are about 94 dB. Yours has an E-V SP12B, same as mine, and it is at least 94 dB ( I've read 95 and 96 dB). Those woofers have more output than the other K-22s I have (K-22-EF, K-22-E).

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Thanks, for the input, the serial numbers put these at 1964. I will get some more photos up if anyone is interested, as both inside and out they look like they just came out of the box. there isn't even any dust inside.

I have heard some people describe speakers that "disappear" and these do just that. I have 4 sets of different vintage speakers in the room, and I sometimes have to walk up to them to make sure it is them that are playing.

Thanks,

Donald

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I tend to believe the Dope from Hope, included above.

Attached is a Type D schematic. It is not much different from a Type C and is barely different from a Type E. If an anomoly other than the phasing I described exists, it exists in all 3. Even Donald's Type 4-R appears very similar.

post-2142-1381949952757_thumb.jpg

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