What to do on this fine holiday......

[Groomlakearea51]

I'm thinking a "shelf" arrangement on the man cave outer wall with a "shutter" that folds down when not in use. If I use Heresy's, then the shelf only needs to be about 10" "deep".

The trick is to be able to "put up and take down" quickly. I also think that I need to make the rear panel connectors "SLR" type which allows me to put something over them when the speakers go inside after listening to them.

Meanwhile..... back at the ranch..... the first "fill" takes the pool up to above the first of the "leak problems": Main drain (was leaking around pipe outlet), light (was leaking around light box wiring conduit) and edge of the lower steps which had stress cracks and likely leaking... Leave it 24 hours and see what happens. Good news.... nothing happened. Lost approximately 1/8" which is normal for evaporation in Florida with an open pool.

[Groomlakearea51]

Been looking around and I think that a pair of Heresy-II's would be the better way to go. Cheaper in the "parts" department, and I have a pair of the crossovers already mounted on a board by BEC. Easier to "water proof", and if I can come up with some extremely thin polypropylene, I can cover the motorboard with that stuff and it should allow the sound to pass. Fortunately, I still have a pair of Klipsch HIP metal mesh grills.

Well..... now for the final fill part. The pool tech folks came over and completely disassembled and cleaned the filtration system, and it's ready to start up.

[Groomlakearea51]

Awful green color, but that is from the iron in the well water reacting with the "death bleach" solution. It will clean up after about 24 hours of filtering with "shock" solution and normal 3" pool chlorine tablets. Pump runs once a day in the afternoon-evening for about 6 hours. It will take about 3 days to become completely clear. I will manually remove most of the leaves during the next couple days, and at the end of next week (Friday), install the Zodiac "Barracuda" sucker-cleaner with an in-line leaf cannister.

First things first.... Make sure that pump system works properly, etc.

[Groomlakearea51]

It's started to clear up already. Most of the particulate matter gets picked up quickly, but the color takes a couple days. Well pump did just fine. Electricity cost was probably about $15 total. But... that's alot cheaper than if I was on "city water". 8500 gallons would be at least $30 or more.....

[Groomlakearea51]

Shut it down after about 4 hours, checked the pump & filter system for leaks, etc.... Went to bed early. Gonna' be a long day. Have to brush the bottom, run the giant pump to really circulate the water, and then drive to Orlando to pick up my wife.

Could not sleep in so I got up at "0'dark hundred" (just before sunrise at 5:45 AM. to check for the final leaks.

Hooooooray!!! water level is maybe about 1/8" lower than when I turned the pump off last night, and that is normal evaporation (windy and temps are still in the low 80's here). That means the outlet jets are not leaking where they "mate" to the pool walls, and the skimmer entrance gasket is properly sealed.

Notice that although the color still "sucks", the water is now getting crystal clear.

[Groomlakearea51]

Well...... lemme' see here.... Here's a complete set of panels with new H-II type motor boards. These motor boards are cut specifically for the H-I type cabinets (they can be removed without destroying the cabinets....). The only "original" stuff left are the rear panels. The original pair (H-BB) were in such bad shape that nothing was salvageable except the rear panels with the serial numbers. The motor boards were cut by Forum member thumperxerxes using a CNC router. Boy do they look good. Only thing I did was the trimming on the edges to allow them to fit in the H-I "box".

[Groomlakearea51]

And the braces..... Also important are the brace "jigs". These are always used to ensure proper sizing. Braces are pretty much cut exact, and when installed with a 19/32" staple gun, and butt joined with glue on a top and a side. The other "pair are assembled in the same way on the bottom and other side. The two "L's" are then joined in a square jig and the panels then glued and nailed with a finishing nail gun. Usually after everything dries, there are no gaps, but I have some very thin "slices" that are inserted if necessary to make sure the seal is good (very important for Heresy cabinets.....)

Once the "box" is complete, I lay the motor board in and then use a router for the brace cutouts required for the Heresy-II motor board's driver configuration.

[BLSamuel]

Marshall starts thinking about some outdoor speakers for out by the pool.... and next thing we know he's building some Heresy 2s from parts laying around his workshop. How cool is that? Or is it insane? LOL

I still kind of like the idea of the outdoor K-Horns....maybe after the pool Heresies start to sound a bit thin compared to the "Wall of Voodoo".

I am about leery about plastic sheeting though Marshall. Naturally it'll block the sound somewhat to maybe a lot in the high frequencies but from a more practical standpoint, wouldn't it trap moisture between the sheeting and the motorboard and drivers? Seems like it may a cure that could be worse or quicker to cause problems than what you're trying to treat?

I guess the best you can hope for is to treat the drivers to handle the humidity as best as possible and keep them as dry as possible?

Or build in a dehumidfier system of some sort? Maybe expand the volume of the cabinets a bit and fill the extra volume with a pouch of dri-sorb or some similar material? Pouch material that would hold in the dust but let moisture through, maybe a landscape fabric type of material. Maybe a separate access hatch to make it easy to change the dri-sorb pouch?

Or an active dehumidfier to turn on when the speakers aren't in use to dehumidfier the interior at least. Or I suppose dehumidifer the shutterable shelf enclosure to keep things dry?

I think the shutter idea would work pretty well though. Close 'em up when there's any sign of rain. And keep the ability to quicly take them down and stow them away should
any tropical storms or hurricanes be heading your way. We occasionally get sideways rain here in Indiana. I suspect it's quite common in Florida?

[michael hurd]

If you want the ultimate in weather resistance for the cabinet, consider having the inside as well as the outside of the enclosure shot with a two component polyurethane / polyurea bedliner. Line-x, Rhino Linings, and others. They are available in colors other than the basic black as well.

For an 8 cu ft box, most of the people I have talked to report between $ 50-80 to shoot the outside of an enclosure.

[Groomlakearea51]

Interesting, I've thought about that type of coating, but I have a gallon of resin and hardner left from another project (a boat repair...) and was thinking about using that. The plywood is some older 11 ply marine grade birch so I know the resin will penetrate. The final coat will probably be a 2 part black epoxy "textured" coating. Now I just have to find the old corner protectors and lift handles from the old pair of HIP's.

Colterphoto and I were talking yesterday and he mentioned that I also need to spray the woofer cones with something called FEM, REM, or something like that. He described it as a vinyl car roof or upholstery spray. Anybody know what I'm looking for?

[michael hurd]

The brand name is SEM, they produce a lot of different coatings for the automotive aftermarket. He coated the woofers on his Heresies with the satin black vinyl spray. A few light coats won't add any appreciable mass, and it will aid in water resistance.

[michael hurd]

Here's a before and after: http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/73072.aspx?PageIndex=2

[michael hurd]

Keep in mind that resin by itself is not very durable. Resin is used in combination with glass fiber, which yields a flexible, yet strong material with impact resistance. Sort of how concrete is not durable without steel reinforcements.

If you had used MDF, it will soak up either polyester or epoxy resin and become very hard. Birch plywood isn't like MDF. ( whereas MDF is like a sponge )

You can use up the resin ( I am assuming it is a polyester and not something like the West Systems epoxy ) on the enclosure with a layer of glass cloth. I would not however, just apply a coat of resin, as it will crack if impacted in the slightest.

Most of the professional cabinets made recently use a two-component polyurea / polyurethane coating that cures in minutes. It will also have some 'give' being slightly rubbery. Abrasion resistance is very good, as well as resistance to impact.

Of course a cabinet that is coated with a material like Line-X after receiving a layer of 3-4 ounce fiberglass cloth + resin would be fantastic... you would be able to toss them down a flight of stairs. []

[Groomlakearea51]

Thanks for the advice! The "rhino-lining" business just went out of business, so I will have to look at the other options.

[dtel]

I used something similar to this in my old truck bed, pretty tough stuff and weatherproof and much cheaper than paying to have it sprayed.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/COMPLETE_READY-TO-USE_BRUSH-ON_BED_LINER_KIT?ID=12;0;1101000995;0;100002;ProductName;0;0;0;0;2000789;0;0

[Groomlakearea51]

That may be the ticket!!! Thanks!!! [Y]

[BLSamuel]

You can get similar stuff in aerosol cans. I got some once to use on the trailer for our lawn tractor but never got around to using it so I can't comment on how well the spray on type works.

So will we be seeing some more pictures soon?

[michael hurd]

The DIY kits don't have the same resins and other chemicals that are used in the real deal 1-1 mix component bedliners. I have used the spray cans available here, as well as the roll on kits. While they are better than a conventional paint, they can't hold a candle to something like the Line-x.

Generally the DIY kits are a much harder coating, but by the same token, they don't absorb energy like a product that is a bit more 'rubbery'.

[Groomlakearea51]

Three days, no leaks, maybe 1/8" evaporation and crystal clean!!!!

[Groomlakearea51]

Part II.... Dig up the old mulch, etc. and replace with new cypress mulch. Takes a full pallet to get the coverage to about 4" deep. You need to have it about 4" deep to inhibit weeds, grass, etc. Notice the proletariat worker toiling in the field while I, the capitalist pig, enjoy a cold one and run the tunes......