masterxela Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 http://pro-audio.musiciansfriend.com/product/Gemini-GVXSUB15P-Powered-Sub?sku=501908 Listening to it right now... Have it crossed to the klf-30's at 120hz, blends awesome, TONS of power, sharp enclosure. Don't know what else you could want. (Does roll off at 40hz according to the manual, but I can't tell... Probably room gain compensating) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Looks like it should do well with music, but it's not really tuned for HT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masterxela Posted March 3, 2010 Author Share Posted March 3, 2010 Yea, I think I'm gonna pick up a feedback destoyer tomorrow and see how it likes some boost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 Yea, I think I'm gonna pick up a feedback destoyer tomorrow and see how it likes some boost. It won't. Taking a box tuned for 40 HZ and boosting the levels below the tuning point is a recipe for disaster. Use the sub for what it's made for, music. If you need a HT sub, find one tuned to around 20 Hz or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheEAR Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 A very bad idea, any TUNED subwoofer,woofer or bass driver pushed to reproduce below tune = BOTTOMING OUT fast,very fast. If you understand how the port(or PR)works you will know the active will quickly be beyond Xmax and hit the mechanical excursion limits. You may very well end with a damaged driver. With sealed it is another game,and even here you need to run simaulations to visualise the mechanical and thermal limitations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masterxela Posted March 4, 2010 Author Share Posted March 4, 2010 I've seen excursion vs frequency graphs for ported designs - understand the situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masterxela Posted March 6, 2010 Author Share Posted March 6, 2010 I live in a loft in downtown springfield, MO. Spring break at MSU starts today. Just opened my windows and played "popular" music LOUD for 3 hours straight (still playing). With decibel meter about 3 feet from the sub, sustained notes are in the 118 range, peaks overload the meter at 126db. Sub is a freaking champ. Plate amp is getting warm... KLF-30's could keep up with 2 or 3 more.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zaskarx Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 Ya, distortion is LOUD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedcrankcammer Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 http://pro-audio.musiciansfriend.com/product/Gemini-GVXSUB15P-Powered-Sub?sku=501908 Listening to it right now... Have it crossed to the klf-30's at 120hz, blends awesome, TONS of power, sharp enclosure. Don't know what else you could want. (Does roll off at 40hz according to the manual, but I can't tell... Probably room gain compensating) Glad you are enjoying your new purchase, but why are you crossing at 120 Hz?? Silly to ask a single 15 to do what your KLF-30s 4 woofers can do from 80 to 120Hz. Also, what are you calling "popular music" I can push more than 126 Db sustained in the middle of my room, without turning on my subs, as I am sure a few other here can as well, but why?? Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4tay Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 Not sure why the argument is against a 20hz capable sub for music, that is the only way I fly. I have heard many a HT system with a sub that rolls off at 40hz. Wait! my Kg4's roll off at 38hz...! That means something that rolls off at 40hz is a woofer, not a true sub. A "SUB" as I classify it reproduces the 1st octave cleanly, and doesn't just bunch energy for 40-80hz. That's more about cinematic boom than music. If you are in a small room and can reasonably expect a low end of 40hz, no problem. But in a system for music, I like 1st octave extension, it really works for large scale orchestral peices that have energy and fundamentals in the 20's that would be missed by a 40hz cutoff. That being said...the gemini might be great, until you DIY a 10" dayton titanic III kit for compare to see if the 40hz performance is "touchable." . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedcrankcammer Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 Not sure why the argument is against a 20hz capable sub for music, that is the only way I fly. I have heard many a HT system with a sub that rolls off at 40hz. Wait! my Kg4's roll off at 38hz...! That means something that rolls off at 40hz is a woofer, not a true sub. A "SUB" as I classify it reproduces the 1st octave cleanly, and doesn't just bunch energy for 40-80hz. That's more about cinematic boom than music. If you are in a small room and can reasonably expect a low end of 40hz, no problem. But in a system for music, I like 1st octave extension, it really works for large scale orchestral peices that have energy and fundamentals in the 20's that would be missed by a 40hz cutoff. That being said...the gemini might be great, until you DIY a 10" dayton titanic III kit for compare to see if the 40hz performance is "touchable." . I'll go you one step further, and state that a sub is not a true sub unless it can play SUB-sonic!! Otherwise it is a woofer. My subs play down to 15Hz before they roll off. It is pretty damn neat to feel your chair shaking, your chest getting beat on, the windows rattling like crazy, without an audible sound coming from the subs in a competion sound sweep, but I will add, that unless you are listening to BoomBoom wicky wicky synthesized crap that their is no need to have a true sub for rock unless you also want home theatre effects. I am picking up a Klipsch KPT-684 sub this coming week, and plan to roll my Velodyne HGS-18IIs into the amp for the KPT 684s twin 18s between 35 and 40 HZ because the Klipsch will sound great at that frequency, and it will free up my Velodynes for more low frequencies. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4tay Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 I'll go you one step further, and state that a sub is not a true sub unless it can play SUB-sonic!! Otherwise it is a woofer. My subs play down to 15Hz before they roll off. It is pretty *** neat to feel your chair shaking, your chest getting beat on, the windows rattling like crazy, without an audible sound coming from the subs in a competion sound sweep. Roger Sounds like my kinda sub! Bag end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djnick Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 ya gem is only 40hertz for proaudio also djin pa system even then no bass for party outa that cheap *** sub lol my pro audio subs aint powered and 1 15 inch cost 500 a cabnit no amp real sub 20 hertz ddeep puunch b 52 system home audio kilpshe rw12d 320 wats 24 hertz deep punch way better then gemini that stinks man only 40 hertz no bass in it hi mid bass that doing dsound great take it back get real sub unless you doing djin then get b 52 subs not that thats for begingers k lowest line if u heard 24 hertz sub vs yours u know what i meen then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djnick Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 BAG END IS OK BUT THEY CANT TOUCH EARTHQUAKE 15 15 SUB 1500 BUCKS 18HERTS T 117 DBU BEST IN ITS CLASS IT EVEN HAS CHART ON THER SITE SHOWING IT SLAM OUT BAG END VADONE ALL HI END STUFF EARTHQUAKE IS BEST SUB TO SCARE YA DEEP AND NOCK YA 640 WATTS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4tay Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 ya gem is only 40hertz for proaudio also djin pa system even then no bass for party outa that cheap *** sub lol my pro audio subs aint powered and 1 15 inch cost 500 a cabnit no amp real sub 20 hertz ddeep puunch b 52 system home audio kilpshe rw12d 320 wats 24 hertz deep punch way better then gemini that stinks man only 40 hertz no bass in it hi mid bass that doing dsound great take it back get real sub unless you doing djin then get b 52 subs not that thats for begingers k lowest line if u heard 24 hertz sub vs yours u know what i meen then I have taken the liberty of translating this post so our English speaking forum members can understand it. "Kind sir, indeed, the Gemini is limited to a mere 40 hertz bass extension with a steep rolloff, possibly suitable for professional audio and a Disc Jockey's public address system. This inexpensive subwoofer produces insufficient bass for mass gatherings. My own 15-inch professional audio subwoofers are passive and cost $500 per driver. They are passive, without on-board amplification. They have an effective -3db response point at 20 hertz. I utilize an external audio amplifier to power them. My own B52 system/ Klipsch home audio RW12D is rated at 320 watts RMS with an effective 24 hertz extension. They are vastly superior to the pedestrian Gemini. 40 hertz bass extension is insufficient, and is classified as mid bass, not 1st octave low bass. Please return the Gemini and purchase a more capable sub. If you are a Disc Jockey purchase B52 subs, not the Gemini, which is an entry level product. If you have compared a subwoofer with 24 hertz extension to the Gemini, then you will understand. " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4tay Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 BAG END IS OK BUT THEY CANT TOUCH EARTHQUAKE 15 15 SUB 1500 BUCKS 18HERTS T 117 DBU BEST IN ITS CLASS IT EVEN HAS CHART ON THER SITE SHOWING IT SLAM OUT BAG END VADONE ALL HI END STUFF EARTHQUAKE IS BEST SUB TO SCARE YA DEEP AND NOCK YA 640 WATTS Your caps lock seems to be stuck. I prefer TC sounds drivers with a 2.6" xmax. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedcrankcammer Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 BAG END IS OK BUT THEY CANT TOUCH EARTHQUAKE 15 15 SUB 1500 BUCKS 18HERTS T 117 DBU BEST IN ITS CLASS IT EVEN HAS CHART ON THER SITE SHOWING IT SLAM OUT BAG END VADONE ALL HI END STUFF EARTHQUAKE IS BEST SUB TO SCARE YA DEEP AND NOCK YA 640 WATTS I'm your Huckleberry! Maybe a cheap *** 15" Velodyne, in your cheap *** Earthquake $1500 price rage, but the HGS and Digital Drive Velodynes are not in that price range, nor are they 15s. I have TWO HGS-18IIs that play down to 15Hz with 1,250 watts RMS, 3,000 watts peak EACH, and the DD-18 goes down to 13Hz, nor do the Velodynes have near the distortion of your earth bump, so bring your Earthquake over and come getcha some!! Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4tay Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 I'm your Huckleberry! Maybe a cheap *** 15" Velodyne, in your cheap *** Earthquake $1500 price rage, but the HGS and Digital Drive Velodynes are not in that price range, nor are they 15s. I have TWO HGS-18IIs that play down to 15Hz with 1,250 watts RMS, 3,000 watts peak EACH, and the DD-18 goes down to 13Hz, nor do the Velodynes have near the distortion of your earth bump, so bring your Earthquake over and come getcha some!! Roger In the vernacular of urban texting: "The HGS-18II's are off the chain yo! They will bust yo' crib up dog!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djnick Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 lol are u for hire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djnick Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 thats 500 per sub man not cabnit lol im in usa im american u can understand what i said i live in michigan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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