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Removing the crossovers from a pair of forte II's


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Has anyone removed the crossovers from a pair of forte II's? I want to have the crossovers caps replaced and I have never taken my forte II's apart.

Do I want to remove the passive radiator for access to the mid and tweeter so that wires can be disconnected? Also, I assume that I will want to note on paper the color coding of the wiring as it applies to re-connecting the woofer, mid, and tweeter?

Seems like the above planned scenario would work, but please advise if you know a better strategy.

Thanks in advance!

John

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... Do I want to remove the passive radiator ...

Absolutely... There is a gasket that might stick a bit, but the drone is held only by the screws. If you lay the speaker face down and remove the screws, you can tip the cabinet a bit, and it SHOULD slip right out. This gives you visablity to the job. Make sure you note polarity as you disconnect the push connectors on the wires to the drivers. The crossover is attached to the rear of the teminal block, which will also need to be unscrewed.

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... Do I want to remove the passive radiator ...

The crossover is attached to the rear of the teminal block, which will also need to be unscrewed.

I just got my Forte II crossovers back from DeanG. I didn't even bother taking them off of the termial block (if thats what you call the plastic piece that has the wire terminals) I just sent the whole things to Dean.

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Reconnecting the drivers is easy - each one's negative is black and the positive is a different color. With the passive radiator removed its pretty easy to see which driver you're hooking up to the crossover. The tweeter might be hard to access by only removing the passive, its a ways up there and you can't realy see what you're doing. I'd recommend removing the tweeter horn through the front and then disconnecting the wires to it.

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Red = woofer

Yellow = Mid

Green = tweeter

standard Klipsch wiring color code

yeah you can reach up through the passive radiator opening to disconnect everything (wires are soldered into the network), but note where each wire came from as you won't be able to see the terminals on mid or tweeter to reconnect correctly later.

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