psg Posted October 15, 2010 Author Share Posted October 15, 2010 Gotcha about the tight seal. As for you guys being here for questions... That, my friends, was a major factor in choosing this build. I knew my back was covered and I thank you for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 I couldn't mess with mine at all this week, but got a little done this morning. I've heard that you need to paint whatever you can on the last horn section before the last panel goes on, so that's where I'm at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 Last panel finally glued in place. Tomorrow I'll start what I believe will be the least desireable part of the built. Making the cabinet look decent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted October 16, 2010 Author Share Posted October 16, 2010 It already does look decent! Great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 It already does look decent! Great job! Thanks. Thought I'd check driver clearance one last time. You can see where I had to gouge a little of the panel to get clearance for the magnet. Once the gasket is compressed there will be a little more room for the vent on the back of the magnet to breathe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted October 17, 2010 Author Share Posted October 17, 2010 Tightest fit I have ever seen! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted October 17, 2010 Author Share Posted October 17, 2010 A couple of questions... What sort of gear is needed for the EQ? I hear some version of Audyssey may be sufficient? If you already have a receiver with Audyssey, it may suffice. Try it before you buy something else. If you don't, look into getting a BFD. It takes a little time to get the hang of it, but it's worth it. you're basically getting a 12 band PEQ for around a hundred dollars. I am very interested in the hundred dollar Behringer DSP 1124P Feedback Destroyer Pro. There was a used one on Canuck Audio Mart and the seller said: "generation 1 with ver. 00 firmware, so it's compatible with REW (Room Equalization Wizard) software." Do current models not work the same? I am having a tough time finding it in Canada (again) Edit: I see Canada Post can do my bargain hunting from the US for me! http://www.canadapost.ca/shopper/items/1299023/Behringer-Feedback-Destroyer-DSP1124P I stumbled upon a Canadian web site that doesn't look too bad in terms of pricing: www.axemusic.com Behringer DSP1124P Feedback Destroyer Pro C$115 Behringer EUROPOWER EP2000 Power Amplifier C$345 Samson S-Convert Bump Box C$60 Q: Does the EP2000 or the DSP1124P work well with consumer receiver's LFE output? Or is a Samson Bump Box required to switch from consumer to pro voltage? A: I just out a link saying that the FDP doesn't need the conversion! http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=18116584#post18116584 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 I've got an EP-2500 and an EP-4000 (same amp as the 2500 but measured differently). They're both hooked up to consumer/home equipment with no bump box or equivalent. Both work fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted October 17, 2010 Author Share Posted October 17, 2010 Great news. Do you use EQ? You introduced me to it... Maybe I should add a mic to my list. I suppose there's no point in EQ if you can't measure the room. All I have is an analog Radio Shack SPL meter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 Great news. Do you use EQ? You introduced me to it... Maybe I should add a mic to my list. I suppose there's no point in EQ if you can't measure the room. All I have is an analog Radio Shack SPL meter. Yes, I've got a BFD in ,my living room HT. I took the low tech approach to measuring my room. I took a disc with test tones and played each track (Hz) from 20 to 80. I used the Rat Shack compensation table to get the true readings and then plotted them on graph paper. It's crude, but it works. Room measuring software would work faster IF you knew what you are doing and have a laptop and mic. I have none of the 3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 So the BFD makes a big difference? They don't recommend using the newer Radio Shack SPL meter for REW input, except perhaps the old analog version which I have owned for 30 years. I had no idea I'd still be using it after so many years! So it looks like a $35 Behringer U-Control UCA202 would let me conect it to REW on a laptop and do some of this with a measure of fun. So I will be getting that and a BFD (we'll see about a better mic and mixer later on, but I'd only ever use it for this... Still might be worth $120 to dial-in a multi-thousand dollar system!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 It made a very noticeable differenge for me. My living room has a huge hump around 50 or so Hz so everything in that frequency was about twice as loud as everything else. Taking that hump down allows for an easier load on my amp (I run it with a 2 Ohm load) and made the bass more realistic in movies. Music is much improved too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 Gonna get the BFD and the U-Control UCA202. I didn't already because I am only $35 away from free shipping ($200 minimum order), and I'm sure I'll find out there's something else I'll need. Of course buying an amp now would take me over the free shipping limit! Got the driver mounted in panel #3. I cut the circle with a jigsaw using an angle, as recommended in the plans for better T-nut bite, and I think the driver suspension is hitting the angled wood a bit too much. The T-nut clear the inner circle by quite a bit so I might just get the saw out again and trim some of that off before it gets glued in on Wednesday evening. I started the break-in at 2.6V (around 1.3 W) and will crank it up to 10 V tomorrow. I had decided on the Behringer EP2000, which is $350 in Canada with free shipping but 5% tax, but I would prefer an amp with more voltage LEDs than just "clip". One with -20 dB and -10 dB would help see too much excursion coming. On the other hand the EP2000 is rated at 500WPC into 4 Ohms (not bridged), so I guess it would be a good match to the 500W Dayton driver. The clipping LED would be useful. The amp is a lot cheaper than alternatives from QSC or Crown. I could buy two and drive my Klipschorns like never before! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted October 19, 2010 Author Share Posted October 19, 2010 I cut the circle with a jigsaw using an angle, as recommended in the plans for better T-nut bite, and I think the driver suspension is hitting the angled wood a bit too much. The T-nut clear the inner circle by quite a bit so I might just get the saw out again and trim some of that off before it gets glued in on Wednesday evening. Here's a picture... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted October 19, 2010 Author Share Posted October 19, 2010 Running a 20 Hz tone at 10 Volts now with the driver in the baffle. Boy, makes you wonder if a 1/2" baffle is strong enough! That thing moves! Anyway i don't think that the angled cut is in the way of the driver excursion, but it is tight. I may cut a little off of the angle. Since the T-nuts are in place, I know how much I can cut off without hurting anything anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted October 19, 2010 Author Share Posted October 19, 2010 Another pic. Here you see that the edge of the foam is almost up against the angled wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 You're definitely going to need more clearance. It won't take long to rub a hole in the surround from the looks of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted October 19, 2010 Author Share Posted October 19, 2010 Good point. Guess I should stop my in-baffle break-in... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 You can continue the break in on the bench if necessary. Take a good look at the surround while you have it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nyt Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 I didn't bother with the angle, but keep in mind the plans were originally for the tempest / dayton DVC, which has a taller gasket. You can see the space here. I also came a bit closer to my t-nuts. and another pic showing the dvc drivers 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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