Beechnut Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 High Klipsch Community! Pair of LaScala's for sale on craigslist here in San Antonio. Seller says he can't get them to work and is listing them for $350. I'm going to take my A/V receiver with me, wire and check them out. I have a background in electronics so I know how to chase wires, use a multimeter and such. My biggest concern is if the speakers are acctually inop due to being blown or something else. I'll take several pictures and do my best to figure it out there. So the questions: Any tips on what to look for/how to test? If I don't find loose wires, should I hook up to the speakers directly and bypass the crossovers to check function? Thanks ahead of time! Been looking at the Heritage line for awhile and I'm excited to move into them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 depending on the year of manufacture...check the fuses....assume nothing....case in point...once had a person with a similar problem...went over and checked...no wires between the amp and speakers....it was supposed to work thru magic. Back you your questions.....the crossover board is clearly marked with where each connection goes as well as pos and neg. Even if connected correctly, corrosion could and often does prevent good contact, bring some star lock washers. The woofer can handle a direct speaker test (if you don't have a multimeter). The mid driver is rated from 110hz to 4500hz so at very low power, you could test those, the tweeter can't handle a direct test unless you put a 2uf capacitor in line. btw, if you have a multimeter, when testing the mid driver, you should hear a buzz. the DCR reading using a multi meter of unconnected drivers are woofer=3.9, mid driver=101, tweeter=6.2 ohms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechnut Posted March 20, 2011 Author Share Posted March 20, 2011 Excellent info! I'll update when I take a look at them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 If they are genuine Klipsch and the cabinets are in good shape, they would be worth it to me to just pay him and take them home and worry about the not working later. If you make them work, will he decide he wants more? Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennie Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 If they are genuine Klipsch and the cabinets are in good shape, they would be worth it to me to just pay him and take them home and worry about the not working later. If you make them work, will he decide he wants more? Bruce That is exactly what I was thinking. If you go over and get them working, he may not want to sell them, or he may raise the price. For $350, if they are good cosmetically, get them and fix them when you get home, as Bruce said! Dennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipsch_Geek Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 Cabinets alone are worth $350 if they are genuine and in good shape. Don't worry about the finish as much as if they are structurally sound. And I agree, don't fix them there. Look at them, hem and haw, and then offer $250 to make them go away that day! Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 Cabinets alone are worth $350 if they are genuine and in good shape. Don't worry about the finish as much as if they are structurally sound. And I agree, don't fix them there. Look at them, hem and haw, and then offer $250 to make them go away that day! Good Luck! What ever you do , don't post the link....if you do...the seller will get emails from folks all over the country telling him he should sell them on ebay for $2000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechnut Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 Well I've taken the plunge. Below are pics of these two just coming home. Looks like '76 Lascala's. Of note, he bought these 4 years ago intending to fix them and never did. Said he was a DJ at that time and purchased them from a wedding chapel that said they didn't work anymore. More to follow on troubleshooting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechnut Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 Backs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechnut Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 Left Side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechnut Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 Right Side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 whats wrong with the speakers.....well...theres no plug wire for the wall out let...the records keep falling out of that wide black slot...and even if I could plug it in and the records wouldn't fall out...I don't see anywhere to adjust the volume....and it hurts like hell when I sit on those pointy things....give up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechnut Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 Serial #s are 6P983 & 7P487. One has sticker. One doesn't. Both have stamp in the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechnut Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 6P Crossover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechnut Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 7P Crossover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechnut Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 Alright, so now for the troubleshooting. What steps/order do you suggest. Hooking them up first step #1 of course Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 put a multi meter on the inputs of the crossover (marked input) if you get more than 3 to 4 ohms, continue, if you get 0 ohms stop, if you get an open circut stop. for stop situations, disconnect each driver and test with a multimeter individually, tweeter=6.2 ohms, mid driver=10 to 11 ohms, woofer=3.9 ohms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechnut Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 Curse you 9V batteries! K...multimeter back up and running. 1 Speaker at .9 and the other at 2.9. So now I'll disconnect from the board and test each speaker from the wire that meets the board through itself and back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechnut Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 Here is the news: The 6P: Tweeter @ 2.0 ohms Mid @ 11.9 ohms Woofer @ Open The 7P: Tweeter @ 13.3 ohms Mid @ 11.8 ohms Woofer @ Open So...where to next? Should I pull the tweeters and test without the wiring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Wow, it will be a pain to get to the woofers. The bottom comes off to reveal the opening for the woofers. You'll have to get to them to make sure the wires are still connected to the woofs. As funky as they look, you really could just have some corroded connections. The mids seem promising. [Y] For the tweeters, I would (carefully) pull the leads off the actual tweeters (if they are soldered on, that's another story). So, yeah, pull the tweeter out and check right on the driver assembly. The cabs really look pretty decent. Easily worth the money. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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