Question for HDBRBuilder

[Marty65]

HDBRBuilder, While at Klipsch did you ever get a chance to build a Klipschorn or help out in building one? Really enjoy reading your posts, very interesting.

Thanks Dan

[HDBRbuilder]

Dan,

I would have to reply to your question in this manner: I was never a "designated K-horn builder", nor was I a "designated LaScala OR Belle Klipsch builder".

To explain this:

The LaScala, Belle Klipsch, and Klipschorns, in that ascending order, required the skillful fabrication of a number of parts and sub-assemblies, prior to these parts and sub-assemblies being finally assembled into the final loudspeaker cabinet(in the case of the LaScala) or sections (in the cases of the Belle Klipsch and Klipschorn)

Those individuals who had been there longest tended to become the "designated" builders who used these parts and sub-assemblies for the Klipschorn and Belle Klipsch cabinets, with those there the absolute longest gravitating to the Belles.

But that in no way took away from the requirement that the parts and sub-assemblies had to be fabricated with the same attention to detail as the final assembly of the cabinets. In other words, the final assemblers of the cabinets depended on the builders of their sub-assemblies to do the job right, or else the cabinets would not go together.

Whenever a new employee was assigned to the cabinet shop, they went thru a break-in phase that allowed them to progressively move up from "tailing" the tablesaw for simple rips/crosscuts, pre-drilling the parts and minor sub-assemblies using jigs, and learning to operate the overhead router. This got them used to how even the simplest of tasks required in the building of the speakers required alot of attention to detail. It also gave the foreman an opportunity to see, through observation and close monitoring of progress, whether the new employee was capable of handling responsibility "on his own" and could be trusted to consistently provide quality work.

From this point, if an employee "showed progress," he was allowed to "try his/her hand" at more difficult jobs involved in building the sub-assemblies up. If no progress was made, the employee would be either relegated to the simpler assemblies, be the helper in the building of less complicated cabinets under the tutelage of an experienced builder, or moved to another department to see how well he/she did there...eventually ending up in shipping boxing up speakers if no ability was found...then "out the door!!" if the employee just couldn't do anything right....hey....YOU ASKED!!!LOL!

Every effort was made to retain an employee, but some people are just worthless and don't care...what can I say?

If the employee remained in the cabinet shop and showed promise, he/she ended up building sub-assemblies and helping in the final assembly of "D" style Heresy. If the Lead-man building those saw promise in the employee, then he/she was allowed to be helper in assembly of Cornwalls. From there the employee may graduate to non-decorator style heresy, or LaScala...OR end up becoming Lead-man when building "D" style heresy and Cornwalls...according to need.

I have built LaScalas, when the need arose to "catch-up" in that area and I had plenty of "D" style heresys and both type of Cornwalls built-up to keep the sanders busy for a few days...but never was a "designated LaScala builder".

I have "assisted" in the building of K-horns and Belles, too, but was never a "designated builder" of them....even though you have to know how to build them in order to assist...

After all, for over 6 of the 7 years I worked there, I was the "main man" on decorator heresys and all of the Cornwalls...and that was a key to the positioning of newer employees into other jobs....If they couldn't keep up with me, then they didn't have much hope to advance...LOL!...alot of em didn't, either.

I also built alot of the large theater speaker systems, including sub-assemblies...called the MCM1900 System at that time..of which the woofer section is still in the line-up today...the MWM...but it appears that the squawker, sub-squawker, and tweeter cabinets for that system are not in the line-up anymore. Actually I always hated building the MWM's because of the crawling around on em on your knees to nail on the top and bottom...but I did do it!!!...LOL!

So, to answer your question in another way, even though I never was a "designated builder" for Klipschorns, Belles, or LaScalas, I did build them...

Is that what you were asking?...(Sorry, that was a loaded question you gave me)

P.S. In addition to the MCM1900 System, I built an awful lot of the industrial "slant" heresy stage monitors...Boy!!!, they were alot of fun, LOL!

[Marty65]

HDBRBuilder, Thanks for your reply, was very interesting to read. I hope you don't mind us asking you so many questions for your the first person that I have found on this forum that has actually worked on the production line. If you're tired of answering questions let us know.

Thanks again,

Dan

[HDBRbuilder]

Dan,

No problem....isnt't this what we are all here for?...to ask questions, answer questions, give our opinions, and generally enjoy ourselves reading all of this and being part of a mutual harassment society that loves Klipsch speakers? That's why I'm here, you?

[hetmann]

When building khorns, did your shop follow a procedure similar to the one described on the speakerlab plans? The process shown can be difficult and problems with the fit/angles of some parts do not show up until later.

I'd appreciate any insights you may care to share on checking fit and dry assembly of parts prior to glue up. What quality checks were performed during construction?

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Klipschorns and Moondogs

[HDBRbuilder]

Hetmann,

1. I have never seen the speakerlab plans, so I have no idea if the procedure is the same or not.

2. Not only are the cuts for most of the parts involved in the building of a K-horn critical, but in many cases they are downright difficult...even if using the special jigs and such that are used everyday at Klipsch to provide parts that will fit together properly!!! I can imagine what a bear it would be to attempt the cuts without the jigs, but it CAN be done!!!

3. Even if the cuts on the parts are absolutely perfect, if they aren't properly assembled into the sub-assemblies, the final assembly of the folded horn may not EVER go together correctly!!!...again the use of jigs for this assembly (and sometimes some serious muscle power for warped or bowed parts) is the easiest way to accomplish this, but is no guarantee of a perfect fit...that is why...

4. K-horn builders at Klipsch have at their disposal numerous sets of arms to muscle things together, and some "adjusters for fit" better known as angle-head body grinders, belt sanders, etc....LOL!

In other words..."There ain't no easy way to build a k-horn, just less-difficult ones!!!!"...LOL!

BTW...you can quote me on that!

[HDBRbuilder]

Hetmann,

If my last posting wasn't much help, please understand that it is difficult to make a comparison to an unseen set of plans for a procedure.

I do remember this though:

1. When assembling the "wings"(the two sections that make that part of the folded horn at the top and the bottom of horn , with the "pyramid" between them):

a. the angled glue block(made out of solid pine) at the sharpest interior angle(towards what will be the rear of the horn) was always left with each side sticking out somewhat to be cut down by the builder when in the final assmbly stage. We had a jig to draw a line on the largest panel of that assembly(which ends up either becoming the top or the bottom of the horn). The jig fitted to the rear of that piece. When installing that particular glueblock, it was critical that even if the sharp bevel's edge(which lined up on the line) wasn't perfectly flat along its surface, giving a perfect sharp edge to line up with the drawn line, the block still be attached "eyeballing" its placement relative to its other parallel edges to that line(I hope this is making sense...it is so much easier to show you than to try and explain). This glue block would often warp or bow and had to be muscled into shape to follow the line. The same can be said for the other block at the other end of that panel.

b. the positioning of the block at the rear of the "wing" to which the "tailpiece" will be mounted is pretty critical(we always used a jig) because it will require more sanding to fit the tail piece it not installed "square" to the jig line.

2. The "pyramid" is just a "*****" to build to start with!!!...Nuff said!!!

3. Probably the most important thing one can do is at the very beginning!!! The surface of the worktable needs to be perfectly flat. When laying the front panel face down on it to begin final assembly of the horn, the panel needs to be perfectly flat against the table surface(these panels tend to curl some at times) and the best way to ensure this is to clamp its edges all around to the worktable to ensure it remains flat. Trust me, this simple safeguard will solve alot of grief later on!!!

Either way, I could be alot more help to somebody trying to build a k-horn if I was onsite, but...alas...that isn't possible!

One bigtime suggestion, tho...If anyone out there who decides to attempt building a k-horn DOESN'T have a good quality tablesaw, etc...AND MOST IMPORTANTLY very good woodworking skills combined with a COMPLETE understanding of how each part will relate to the others from the very beginning of the process...and still attempts to build one...please make sure your life insurance has a suicide clause in it that favors your survivors!