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bob carver sues?


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boa-12 - I remember quite a while back that there was some stink about regulating the way manufacturers rated their amplifiers. That was when you would see the maximum RMS output at X Ohms and X frequency. It left nothing to the imagination.

Now you see all sorts of ratings in the form of "400 watts!" etc. They could mean peak to peak watts, average watts, peak watts, accumulated watts over 100 milliseconds... In other words, no reference, no meaning.

I found another phone number for Klipch. I'm going to call their design engineers and ask them what the deal is. I realize the sub I bought performs reasonably well, but always like to know what the amplifier is made of whenever I buy any higher-priced amplified audio equipment.

For the benefit of those that don't know what RMS means, I'll try to explain.

RMS stands for "root mean square". I'll use the 120 volt commercial line voltage for an example. The 120V rating given for household electrical voltage is in RMS. The peak voltage is actually 170 volts. RMS is 70.7% of the peak voltage. This has been a standard of rating "continuous voltage" as well as rating continuous watts. Volts times amps equal watts. Ie. 120 Volts times 6 amps equals 720 watts. Since the volts are in RMS, the watts are in RMS. Therefore it is impossible for the amp to produce an output greater than 720 watts RMS if the fuse will only allow a current draw of 6 amps. Klipch rates their KSW-12 and KSW-15 subs at 1000 watts RMS continuous. Their technical support just told me that. If the amplifier section in their sub could actually produce 1000 watts RMS continuous by consuming 720 watts RMS, they would be breaking the laws of physics. My hypothesis is the amplifier in that sub produces around 225 to 275 watts RMS since an equal amount of watts is burned on the output (or power) transistors.

CAKid cwm15.gif

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Ears, since you have such extensive first hand knowledge of MANY subwoofers, I'd like to pose a question to you. I am going to purchase a subwoofer VERY soon, and I am leaning towards the Earthquake MKIV 15. However, after reading some of your comments (sunfire ~117dB@~30Hz!), do you feel that I would be better off with a sunfire subwoofer, or is there any other subwoofer that would outperform these subs (NOT a krell or other such nonsense...I don't have $2083825087234807234 x 10^1000000 dollars!)? Let me put it this way, if you were going to purchase a brand new sub, what would you get (assuming you had a $2000 or so limit)?

Thanks in advance ears!

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Rizz,

If I had a $2000 limit(USD) I would consider the Sunfire Signature,Velodyne HGS12 and SVS Ultra with Samson 1000 power amp.

If size is a deciding factor then by all means,get the Sunfire Signature.Even if size is not the deciding factor the Signature has massive output.Two Signature subs best one HGS18!In my room by 1dB.

TheEAR(s) Now theears

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  • 3 weeks later...

Why sue,REL uses a MOSFET power amp and their subs are sealed,not the active/passive(the Mirage copycat was).

The amp is not any copy of the Sunfire(Bob Carver)patented design and the only thing the sub is small.You cant sue a company just because their sub is small.This would be a bit too extreme.

TheEAR(s) Now theears

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i'm telling you

unequivocally

SVS

quit playing with these little boxes and get a real sub

------------------

Deanf>s>

Cary AE-25f>s>SuperAmpf>s> - Sonic Frontiers Line 1 - Sony DVP-S9000ES - Klipsch RF7's

SVS 20-39 CS Plus - Samson S1000 - HSU Research elec. crossover - MIT/Monsters

f>s>

Inside every small problem is a large problem struggling to get outf>c>s>-- 2nd Law of Blissful Ignorancef>s>c>

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Dean,

You call a carboard tube with a heavy duty driver a sub!I take my subs thank you,oil barrel style does not strike my fancy.And you dont need oil barrel style carboard tubes to get great sub bass.

Wink.gif

(I can feel TV is ready to jump from the tree with a chainsaw on me anytime now. cwm3.gif )

TheEAR(s) Now theears

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