Khorn Squawker not working - HELP!

[Ave Bona Cornwall]

I just bought a pair of '94 Khorns (without listening before buying) and got them home, put them together, and no sound from one squawker. The connections all seem fine, and the wires are (I don't know the right terminology, but "welded" seems to work best) to the driver so I can't swap them between the speakers without breaking the connection somehow.

Any ideas on how to diagnose whether it is the driver or crossover? If this has been answered in a previous thread, please point me to it. I have an amp meter / ohm meter, but don't really know what I am doing, so I don't even know what setting to put it on to take a measurement at the driver.

[HudsonValleyNoah]

trace the driver wires to the crossover and un-screw them there (note which one is neg and pos) then you can un screw the driver off from the big horn for the swap.

but before you us-screw the driver from the horn, check the driver for continuity and CR if you DO have continuity...

[Ave Bona Cornwall]

I took advice and made a circuit with a AA batery with the driver, and the driver works, so it must be the crossover, right?? I looked for loose connections and cound't find any. Does that mean I have to replace the whole crossover?

[DizRotus]

As you can tell, Noah is also assuming that the driver leads are attached to the balancing networks (aka crossovers) by screw terminals. The photo in your other thread shows an AK network. I've got no personal experience with that network, but my guess is the answer to your question is yes.

I recommend contacting Bob Crites (BEC on this forum) at http://www.critesspeakers.com/. Bob can review the threads and be able to give you informed answers.

[Guest " "]

are you getting sound from your tweeter? roll up a magazine and use it to listen to the tweeter. if you are not getting sound from your tweeter, check your speaker connection plate on the side of the woofer cab for a HF fuse. check the fuse to see if it is blown. put your ohm meter in ohms mode and see if it swings to zero when you check the fuse.

[Guest " "]

As you can tell, Noah is also assuming that the driver leads are attached to the balancing networks (aka crossovers) by screw terminals. The photo in your other thread shows an AK network. I've got no personal experience with that netwrok, but my guess is the answer to your question is yes.

I recommend contacting Bob Crites (BEC on this forum) at http://www.critesspeakers.com/. Bob will review the threads and be able to give you informed answers.

no...check the fuses first.

[DizRotus]

You previously indicated that all drivers work, except one squawker driver. Nonetheless, after you've confirmed that all fuses are intact, contact Bob Crites (BEC on this forum) at http://www.critesspeakers.com/. Bob can review your threads and be able to give you informed answers. Bob has forgotten more than most on this forum know, or will ever know.

You appear to have AK-3 networks. Even in the unlikely event that a blown fuse prevents only the squawker from operating, Bob can advise you regarding refreshing/updating 17 year-old networks.

You can find much more information using the forum's search function, but some pertinent threads are identified below:

Crossover Experimenting ALKs, Type Bs and AK3s

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/56743.aspx?PageIndex=2

AK-3 Crossover

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/16249/127484.aspx#127484

AK-3 Klipschorn fuse question

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/77722/769092.aspx#769092

AK-3 network mod

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/58797/573681.aspx#573681

[Guest " "]

DizRotus can you lighten up with the Bob Crite's endorsements........I personally like Bob....but you tend to have a degrading tone in your posts...I seen a lot of things over the last 8500 posts...stick around and you will know what I mean. AND, know one ever said the squawker was the only thing not working.....the HF fuses should be checked before we start recommending crossover swaps.

[Ave Bona Cornwall]

are you getting sound from your tweeter?

Yes, the tweeter is working, and so is the woofer. Diz knew that it was just the squawker from the thread in 2 channel audio.

Ken

[davis419b]

It pays to read both threads ! Nice catch Diz.

[Ave Bona Cornwall]

Am I correct in assuming that if the tweeter works, the fuse should be good? To look at the fuse, do I just yank it out? Twist it out? I don't want to break anything else!!

[DizRotus]

"Am I correct in assuming that if the tweeter works, the fuse should be good?"

I believe that to to be the case. The HF fuse seems to protect everything but the woofer. The AK-3 schematic above was cadged from another thread, so I can't vouch for its accuracy. It seems to show a 2.5 amp fuse for the woofer and a 1.25 amp for the squawker and tweeter. I believe the tweeter is incorrectly also labled "squawker."

In the days of tube amps, Klipsch didn't feel the need for fuse protection. As cheap solid state high watt amps became the norm, PWK decided to fuse his speakers to protect them from the "stoves" (high watt amps).

It's my theory that the fuses were put on the woofer access door to be deliberately difficult to check and replace. PWK probably added the fuses to document "excessive" power as much as to protect the drivers. Those patches inside cell phones that turn pink to show "excessive" moisture are analogous. It would've been much easier to put the fuses on the outside, where they are more easily accesssible, if they were intended to be checked and replaced by the user.

[DizRotus]

The attached AK-3 schematic was also taken from a prior thread, but it seems to be accurate. Note that F2, a 1.25 amp fuse, is inline with the squawker and the tweeter. Since you know the tweeter and woofer work, you need not be concerned about the fuses; they're OK.