KPT-904 vs Jubilee with same top thoughts

[chrapladm]

Thanks Coytee that helps alot.

For me the L/R (Jub/942-4) would be going into a 12ft wide room. SO just big enough for them. I was thinking of a AT screen for in front of the L/R and two sealed subs but then forgot I wont have much room for the center. 24" cube x 2 subs and 80" for the two bass bins. SO not enough to squeeze another bass bin in there. unless its above 24"

The distance I would be sitting would be closer to 10ft margin. I figure I will buy these things once and eventually get a bigger room for them.

I responded on Rodrockets thread to try and learn more about his costs and other stuff but he has been busy I guess. no worries.

My sink drains counter clock wise. I am from the USA but have been living here for 3 years now. I dont remeber what the drain did back home.

I have about 4 different reasons to go to Sydney now and now there is another one. Most people's builds of HT rooms are mainly members from Sydney. I am from Adelaide which is about 16/17 hours away. PLUS I have 4 children and a wife so everything for me is very slow.

I miss my old K2's. I used to have a EAW setup for fun which had dual 15 mains and dual 18 subs just for my shed which was 55 x 25ft x 20ft. That used to have your pants flap easily and I only had a K2 and a K1 for the amps. Now I just want something similar for my HT experience. I cant go by memory because I used to think my old subs were the bomb.(M&K 150's) Then I got a pair of Paradigm Servo 15's. WOW.

THEN DIY. Now those subs are way in the past and not even close to what I have built sound wise.

My subs will be able to keep up just fine with whatever I choose but just wanted to make sure that I can sit close enough to them that I would still hear one source. And now that seems likely. Are your Jubs angled or straight?

I think mine would have to be straight because of wanting a AT screen and 2ft false wall.

Does the 942-4 dig a little deeper than the jub? -10 @ 26hz

And do you need a Hpas on any of these bass bins, 942-4 or Jub, in a home environment?

Seems like these bad boys would be intended for bigger rooms/cinemas and using them at home you would never be able to push them enough to worry. Just what I am thinking. Is there a place or site that shows what Klipsch recommends for subs to go with bass bins like these?

Seems like the onlu sub they have that would do anything would be the KPT-884. My subs wont be that big in external size but it was the only sub from Klipsch that could go lower than the bass bin. Then again maybe a sub is not needed for bass bins like these. [] Man this is exciting just thinking about it. I need to hurry up and get my coins saved.

[chrapladm]

Does anyone think it would be a problem with having a 402 by itself for the center channel?

AFter trying to configure my HT room idea it seems there is no way I can fit three bass bins and my pair of subs on a 12ft wall. I could use two bass bins and both subs but would have to just have a 402 on top of the subs. I think it would sound fine but figured I would ask. I could also just not have the center channel and let the L/R speaker provide center duties like Coytee which would be cheaper and maybe better for me until I get a bigger room.

I winder how quickly the room would fall apart anyways. LOL

[Coytee]

Does anyone think it would be a problem with having a 402 by itself for the center channel?

I do

It's only playing from (about) 500hz on up.

With the Dx38, I can push a button and bypass the 402 and hear the bass bin or, I can bypass the bass bin and hear just the 402.

I'll usually do that for people over having a listen.

In my opinion, the 402 on itself sounds thin & tinny.... the Jubilee bass bin on itself, sounds a bit mushy/boomy rumble.

It just blows my mind that when they merge together, you have such nice sound.

Makes me wonder if someone like Roy or PWK (or anyone else) could hear JUST a bass bin doing the rumble thing and think "now THAT is a good sounding bass bin"

Put bluntly...in my opinion, the HF horn alone sounds like crap. The bass bin alone, sounds like crap.

I might be a bit over dramatic/harsh, but I do want to be clear that alone, I don't think either one sounds "good"

Combined though...... wow

[chrapladm]

Thanks. I was thinking along those lines of not using the 402 by itself. My reason was just because it would save me some money and I could just us the L/R for the center. PLUS the size of the room makes it also difficult.

I think for now until I can get the funds for the speakers I am going to have to build some amps. I just need to figure out which one to build. Chip amp or other. I liked what rod rocket did and got the 350.5 pass amps but that wont be happening with me. Maybe a PASS 150, but then I could always try and build a sort of similar pass amp from the pass DIY community.

Man this hobby is expensive. LOL

[RRFL]

CLOCKWISE but then that could be due to the inlet pipe alignment.

That is so funny you would say that as I have twirled the water "in the sink lol" with my hand to make it go both ways and right now I'm tempted for some more experiments. However, I am able to restrain myself from playing with the sink.

My Jubs are still in the boxes, lol, my damaged Jub N03 is going to be restored "glue and clamps then filled", painted black and then, in an up market bar, will be the LF for 6 SLS LS6593v2 configured into 2 floor to ceiling arrays at World Square Sydney in place of a pair of 400watts 18's. This is a partial loss recovery exercise for the Australian Cinema Dealer. The jub will leave my house in the next week or 2. You will all be able to listen to it power by a QSC RMX2450 only using one channel the other channel silent rather than bridged mono. The DSP will be the A&H iDR8.

The Australian Klipsch Cinema Dealer has ordered a replacement jub for me and I am very grateful for the exception service and consideration extended to me.

I have the highest recommendations for the company absolutely no reservations whatsoever.

My "Current" Home Cinema Plan is the OPPO BDP-95 into the Ashly NE8800 into the amps "NO Integra 80.2 Surround Sound Processor or similar"

Jubs/402/K69 Front L/R.

(1981) Heresy rear L/R surround mounted centre rear above the lounge pointing to the side walls.

Tuba HT 36x36x30 in the rear left corner under the stairs where the 90 degree 2 stair bend will be with 3 stair from their to the floor.

The room is 4.2M wide by 5.9M deep with the timber stair 1M wide on the rear wall.

I plan to use the LG 55LW6500 Cinema 3D TV in between the Jubs no centre channel.

The Oppo video output will connect via HDMI direct to the TV and the 8 Analog audio outputs can be remixed via the NE8800

The jubs will be driven by a pair of Pass Labs x350.5 amps one amp for each speaker channel so there is equal sensitivity, gain, etc for the Low and High. I am mostly interested in the first few watts of the amps as they start as single ended class A then move into push pull class A leaving class A at 40 watts per channel.

They are a said to sound like valve amps yet have the reserve power available of a solid state amp.

In the unlikely event I ever get the Low Frequency to the rated power of the amps then it will only be 1 channel of each amp and that allows for the 1,800watt power supplies to operate at less than the spec for when both channels are driven equally. The Jub is 400watts max 1200watts the 402/K69 is 50watts max 150watts. The amps are 350watts per channel.

My LaScala are running on a Class A Yamaha B2x which is like a pair of dual mono blocks in the one casing. There is also 2 amps per channel 1 on the positive and 1 on the negative side of the speaker. I mostly run them softly less than 1 watt each and the head room available results in a clean sound even when you do ridiculous things with the EQ. There is a lot of freedom to play at low volume.

I have not heard the 415's and can only imagine from my experience with the KPT-684.

By using the corners of the room the jubs are very compact and only extended 31inchs from the corner skirting boards. 24.5inchs from a flat wall.

Size H x W x D "from 2007 Cinema brochure"

The jubs are 40.00" x 41.50" x 24.5" 180lbs, @ 1 watt 105dB Calc Max 128dB, 200watts / woofer

The 415 are 48.75" x 35.75" x 22.5" 200lbs, @ 1 watt 107dB Calc Max 133dB, 800watts / woofer pair

Thanks. I was thinking along those lines of not using the 402 by itself. My reason was just because it would save me some money and I could just us the L/R for the center. PLUS the size of the room makes it also difficult.

I think for now until I can get the funds for the speakers I am going to have to build some amps. I just need to figure out which one to build. Chip amp or other. I liked what rod rocket did and got the 350.5 pass amps but that wont be happening with me. Maybe a PASS 150, but then I could always try and build a sort of similar pass amp from the pass DIY community.

Man this hobby is expensive. LOL

The Pass 150.5 leaves class A at 10 peak watts per channel the 250.5 15watts the 350.5 40watts.

There are numerous Nelson Pass designs you can build. As I understand plans are available for everything except the current production models and the first watt design is an interesting concept.

[RRFL]

It was clockwise, I put a tall glass over the outlet and did it 3 times. It's only at the last moment that is starts to spin as shown in the photo.

[dtel]

Put bluntly...in my opinion, the HF horn alone sounds like crap. The bass bin alone, sounds like crap.

I might be a bit over dramatic/harsh, but I do want to be clear that alone, I don't think either one sounds "good"

Combined though...... wow

As scary is it is, I agree %100. [][] And YES your over dramatic [A] when it comes to Marie Osmond. [:|]

With the DX 38 you can cut out any of the 402's or any of the bass bins and if you listen to anything short of the pair it sounds terrible, really bad. To the point that you would never think both could make music like this together, but they do, better than anything I have ever heard. []

[RRFL]

Put bluntly...in my opinion, the HF horn alone sounds like crap. The bass bin alone, sounds like crap.

I might be a bit over dramatic/harsh, but I do want to be clear that alone, I don't think either one sounds "good"

Combined though...... wow

As scary is it is, I agree %100. And YES your over dramatic when it comes to Marie Osmond.

With the DX 38 you can cut out any of the 402's or any of the bass bins and if you listen to anything short of the pair it sounds terrible, really bad. To the point that you would never think both could make music like this together, but they do, better than anything I have ever heard.

I always found that if I mute the LF it sounds treble.[]

[Coytee]

That is so funny you would say that as I have twirled the water "in the sink lol" with my hand to make it go both ways and right now I'm tempted for some more experiments. However, I am able to restrain myself from playing with the sink.

Go ahead....be the child you want to be!

[Coytee]

I always found that if I mute the LF it sounds treble

I think you need to do more spin analysis of your toilet. Feel free to get it started with your hands. Disregard anything that hits your hand as the water swirls.

[:^)]

[chrapladm]

Rodrocket that is quite the setup you have. I think I will stick with the plan of just having the pair of speakers and no center channel for now. I will have to wait on the Pass Lab amps but I can always build a F5 which is about 40 wattsI believe. Then when I get more funds I will try and stepup to a Pass Labs .5 series or aElectrocompanient AW250R LOL.

Might have to get a similar crossover. It sounds like the setup is much more versatile. ANd I am wondering how the noise floor is going to be with these all revealing horn speakers.

[RRFL]

Rodrocket that is quite the setup you have. I think I will stick with the plan of just having the pair of speakers and no center channel for now. I will have to wait on the Pass Lab amps but I can always build a F5 which is about 40 wattsI believe. Then when I get more funds I will try and stepup to a Pass Labs .5 series or aElectrocompanient AW250R LOL.

Might have to get a similar crossover. It sounds like the setup is much more versatile. ANd I am wondering how the noise floor is going to be with these all revealing horn speakers.

The noise floor is always a point of interest for me and the sensitive horn speaker. My Yamaha C2a and B2x driving my LaScala are the best ever yet. As you say the all revealing horn speaker, that I find so wonderful an experience and it's a compromise with the noise issue and revealing the sensitive details. I am quite able to listen past tape hiss and continuous noise in a system as if I have a balanced network built into my ears, lol. However, every now and then you just suddenly realise it's there and wish it was not.

I will be using one of these Furman products to reduce this.

A) SPR-16E i

B)IT-Reference 16E i

The x350.5 amps are Supersymmetry which is matched balanced circuit design with the intention that common mode artifacts are identical in the two halves of the amplifier and cancel out at the speaker terminals.

The power supply of the x350.5 has mains input noise reduction methods similar to the Furman.

The massive power reserves in both the amps and the Furman together with the isolation between components with the Furman is intended to improve the noise issues.

The weakest link "sounds like a TV show" lol, is the DSP and the only feasible alternative to this is a passive crossover.

Eliminating as many things in the signal path and making it as simple as possible is intended to "minimise" hahahahahahaha that issue. Since I'm going minimalist by getting a pair of Jubs, haha, that is funny when you change the context.

In my minimalist approach the machinery room will be in my BedRoom directly above the "JubRoom". Just like on a great ocean liner such as "Normandy" you don't relax and enjoy the movie with gyros whirling and the like, lol, sorry could not help my self it's the sink syndrome again, I just want to play with water.

Generally when I consider getting something I start at the very best and then consider the cost, working my backwards to reality. In this case I considered the X350.5's to be the closet to what I really really wanted, valves, but I did not want the ocean rushing through when I least expected it, lol, it's that water in the sink thing again. Clockwise!

I spent forever, almost, considering amps and for me the X350.5 had the best overall balance of what I wanted considering I really wanted 400watts or more for each Jub. Not that I will use it, much, haha, maybe a bit, sometimes, NYE, but it's the same as having a Bentley Continental Sports with the W12 engine and not considering that you are going up or down the steep hill sometimes when compared to driving a Smart car.

I considered the Electrocompanient, Krell and others and the x350.5 was the best compromise for me with 1,800watt power supplies in each amp powering only 2 350watt channels where you only ask for 50watts from one of those channels leaves more current available for the LF channel to just gorge itself, just like eating all the ice cream.

My friend who got the x350.5's for me thinks I'm crazy and that I only need 3 watts and he has many valve amps that would work. As a compromise, he was suggesting the XA30.5 for the HF's and a x350.5 for the LF's, and the XA30.5 is rated 30watts/channel class A and the only stereo class A in the range. It leaves class A at 60watts/channel and I saw a test review where they got 153watts/channel before the distortion became noticeable and even then it was valve style distortion.

I don't have a car so I can have Jubs and x350.5's = [ip]

[RRFL]

BTW my friend who got me the x350.5's is getting me an old valve amp with lot's of valves as a decoration. I really like to watch valves and always took the casing of the valve radios in my teens and turned them up to watch the valves change colour. I always thought the transistor should have been invented before the valve as the valve is way more mysterious, Flash Gordon, Art Deco.

A VZN-300 would be nice as a display under the TV.

[chrapladm]

Well I still have to build my room for the 942/Jubs because anything above 1 watt is going to finish off the walls. I have some SLA's and a THT Lp before and I never noticed that I was slowly shaking the drywall seems apart. I also had a dual opposed sealed sono sub for a while and I am sure that helped shake the seem apart also.

SO I will have to look again at the other Pass amps but I still have some other things to pay for. I think the Aleph 1 I will just try and build myslef for now. That mp is capable of 300@4ohms and 600 at 2ohms.

Someday I will be able to purchase my perfect setup or atleast almost but I will have to build the room first before to many expensive things are purchased. Do you have an AVR for decoding or no?

And where are you buying your Furman products from? I couldn't find the products you were refuring to to look at price. I found the electricroom website but they didn't have anything you mentioned.

I was going to sell my Crest Pro7200 to help aid some of my parts for my amp build but I was amazed at the Zero turn out on Ebay:(

[RRFL]

http://www.furmansound.com/product.php?div=04&id=SPR-16Ei

http://www.furmansound.com/product.php?div=04&id=IT-REF_16Ei

I'm going to wire my jubs in series to see what that does with the damping just for interest 32ohms rather than 8ohms. Not for ever inquisitive. I know the idle power consumption for the amp will drop normally 600watts.

I have some concerns with using the Tuba HT 36x36x30 as my house is a sand stock brick terrace so I don't think I will push it ever. I'm looking for ease and accuracy and I do know the amps are over kill but I anticipate they will never need to be changed. Once set, novelty over, I don't really want to fiddle with it, just enjoy, a lot.

In 2 channel mode it will be jubs only. The rest is there for movies where the LFE is necessary.

I will use the OPPO BDP-95 for everything as it can access my NAS and the Internet radio.

[chrapladm]

Is a preamp even needed after using the Oppo? I didn't realize what all the dvd player could do. WOW

That will definitely be on my next purchase list. Does the Oppo have volume control?

Wow Oppo to amps(with passive Xovers) thats awesome.

WHat concerns do you have for the THT?

I had one before and was amazed at what it could do with so little amount of watts. Walls weren't happy, and later I found out out that the drywall seems were coming apart. But when I thought the THT couldn't take any more power or I would break something I wasonly using 28 watts. My house was shaking alot from that.

[chrapladm]

WOW.....I dont know what type of charges are involved but I just got a quote for shipping and custom fees and I dont like the looks of it.

I once had a chat with Danley Sound Labs about one of the monster subs and the highest quote I got was around $1200 for a extremely heavy pair of subs.

Now after seeing the quite fir something that weighs similar I am looking at 3x's the price for shipping. IS that because I am a normal retail customer and not a company?

I have always bought things from the USA and had them shipped here but that is crazy pricing for a pair of speakers. I could have my truck from back home, Klipsch speakers and anything else to fill the container for the same price they quoted me.

[RRFL]

Is a preamp even needed after using the Oppo? I didn't realize what all the dvd player could do. WOW

That will definitely be on my next purchase list. Does the Oppo have volume control?

Wow Oppo to amps(with passive Xovers) thats awesome.

WHat concerns do you have for the THT?

I had one before and was amazed at what it could do with so little amount of watts. Walls weren't happy, and later I found out out that the drywall seems were coming apart. But when I thought the THT couldn't take any more power or I would break something I wasonly using 28 watts. My house was shaking alot from that.

Volume yes

I'm using an active X over "Google" ashly NE8800

This plan takes away the need for a AVR.

Concerns about the THT are building damage, lol.

Read the details here oppodigital.com/blu-ray-bdp-95/

What driver were you using with the THT?

What Amp did you use with the THT?

[RRFL]

WOW.....I dont know what type of charges are involved but I just got a quote for shipping and custom fees and I dont like the looks of it.

I once had a chat with Danley Sound Labs about one of the monster subs and the highest quote I got was around $1200 for a extremely heavy pair of subs.

Now after seeing the quite fir something that weighs similar I am looking at 3x's the price for shipping. IS that because I am a normal retail customer and not a company?

I have always bought things from the USA and had them shipped here but that is crazy pricing for a pair of speakers. I could have my truck from back home, Klipsch speakers and anything else to fill the container for the same price they quoted me.

Was the quote for the Danley Tapped Horn Subs?

How much and what was the weight?

I considered the Danley, however, they won't fit anywhere out of the way due to the shape.

The weight was also an issue if you were to move them.

How much did you THT weight?

What size were they?

[chrapladm]

I was using the 390HF. I went with 28" wide. I had to bear hug thesub to get it in my house. But mine was also the Lp(tall) version.

I only had the my Crest Pro 7200 for the amp. So I used a channel off of that.

Yes the quote was for the TH from Danley. I was only curious about the monster ones and the smallest being a pair of TH-50. I looked at the DBH218 and TH221. The DBH218LC came out so I would chose that one before the regular DBH218.

Most of DSL TH are large so I couldn't see many of them fitting anywhere small. Although a member from this forum used a DTS20 in his entertainment center and it was out of sight. Great install.

I will look at my email and find the quote for the shipping. Most of the subs from DSL could fit a pair on a pallet.

And now I have been told that the quote if for 3 pallets delivered to Adelaide. But 4400 for shipping is crazy!!!