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capacitor change, wiring change


Dflip

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I am not an electronics wizzard, but I do love my Cornwalls and have had them now for 25 years. I have a couple of questions that I thought one of the resident experts might be able to assist me with. I have made copies of many of the points made here and in the two channel section.

A few months back two of the capacitors gave way on my old pair of Cornwalls. I replaced the two metal caps with polypropolene ones. The 4.0 uF was replaced with a 4.7 and the 2.0 with a 2.2 uF. How does the difference in values effect the sound?

Would I be better off replacing them with Hovland Music Caps?

I want to rewire the inside of the speakers as well. Should I replace the internal wiring with the same quality of speaker wire I am currently using, van den Hul cs-122 (12.5 awg)?

Should this wire be used only from the soldered, gold plated binding posts on the back to the output connectors, or also to the woofer, midrange and tweeter?

The connections for the midrange and tweeter seem to want a thinner wire (anyone with any recommendations as to gauge)?

Thanks in advance,

Dflip

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Dflip,

I think the 2.2 uF cap is ok in place of a 2.0. It is only 10% high which is the tollerance of most caps. The 4.7uF at 17% high is a bit much. How about a 1.8 uF in parallel with a 2.2 uF?

Hovland caps are very good, but if you want the best bang for the buck, upgrade the inductors instead.

I personally don't think upgrades to wiring is cost effective. It can't hurt though.

Al K.

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Al/Klipschguy:

Thanks for the response. I will reconsider rewiring them, especially since it was going to be costly and not worth the money, $150. The Cornwalls are serial #'s 12R487 and 10P028. I don't know if that makes them I's or II's.

What is the benefit of the 1.8 uF in parallel to the 2.2 uF for the uninitiated? Currently the 2.2 uF is wired to the tweeter on the terminal strip and the other sider is to the T21 2110A (inductor?) Where does the 1.8 go, connected to the 2.2 and then the 1.8 wired to the tweeter and terminal strip, or are both wired together, or between the 2.2 and the inductor? If I make this change, should I also change the 4.7 uF to a 4 uF? As I said, I am not an electrician, but can figure stuff out with detailed instructions and trial and error.

What brand, mHy and AWG wire of inductors would you recommend if I want the best bang for the buck?

Thanks again,

Don

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Dflip,

The 1.8 and 2.2 are connected directly together (parallel) to make 4.0 uF. 2.0 + 2.0 will work too, but if you had to replace a 2.0 with a 2.2 I just assumed you couldn't get two 2.0 caps. Any combination connected in parallel that add up to 4.0 will work.

Yes, the woofer inductor in the B netwrok is 2.5 mHy. A 2.4 mHy is fine too. That's a standard Solen inductor value.

AL K.

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Al, you are amazing!

The store I got the caps from only had the 4.7 uF, so I may have to source a more appropriate 4.0 cap. I will investigate the Hovland music caps later.

I assume from your website and other instructions, that I would want to use #14 AWG Solen Hepta-Litz inductor if I am only replacing the one inductor in each speaker. I guess the Hepta-litz is of a higher quality than the Solen solid inductors.

I have greatly improved the soundstage and overall sound quality with 3 wire braided silver interconnects and the Black Diamond Racing Cones and Things. The bass is tighter and deeper, with greater sound stage.

I have heard a pair of 8 wire braided silver interconnects on a pair of bi-wired Totem Model One signatures and they made the 3 wires sound like lamp cord.

I'm sure a tube amp/preamp would be a great addition, but that is another project. Budget constraints, one small step at a time.

Thanks again.

Don

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I know understand why the ALK networks cost what they do.

I priced two, Solen litz 14 awg inductors and 4 Hovland Music caps and they came to a "reasonable" price in US funds, but when converted to the Canadian peso + tax, the bill is $198.44 + shipping.

Don

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Here is a summary of what I have learned about my requests: Klipsch Cornwall, B network. Thanks to Al K. and others for their input and advice.

1) Hovland music caps have a higher level of tolerance, but may not be that much better than Solen fast caps,. They are a lot more money. They may be worth using for the upper value, 2.0 uF if money is an issue.

2) The general advice for the best bang for the buck is to replace the inductor(s) in the speakers. For the B network, this is a 2.4 mHy inductor made of 12 awg solid wire. Litz wire is used only for the inductor that is connected to the squawker and tweeter(not in the B networks). Solen sells the 12 gauge solid wire, part S122.4 for $46.44 Cdn each and the 14 gauge, S142.4 for $28.16.

----Solen Inc.-----

-4470 Thibault Ave.

--St-Hubert, Qc----

--Canada J3Y 7T9---

Phone: 450-656-2759

-Fax: 450-443-4949-

www.solen.ca

solen@solen.ca

3) If you replace the internal wiring within the speaker, you should use the same wire as you have from the amp to the speakers. This will make a change, but it is not major and probably not the first step because it is very expensive with the distances travelled inside a pair of Cornwalls, 18 feet.

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Would it be better to use 10 awg wire?

Al K. suggested using the best wire possible. 14 awg was the minimum with a preference for 12 gauge.

The difference in cost between the two is rather significant, so I would assume it would increase at the same ratio for 10 gauge. That is a lot of coin, especially in Cdn $.

Somebody else on this forum might have the answer for you.

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  • 1 month later...

I have installed the 12 awg Solen solid wire inductors and have been listening to them for about a month now.

They give a greater soundstage and brought the sound more to the front. It was a little too much with my Accurus amp and preamp, especially in the midrange, so I decided to do some damping to the squawker. I started with one layer of rope caulk, 3 packs per speaker from Home Depot. I damped them too much and reduced it to two packs (12" long and two inches wide). What I am left with is great sounding base and wonderful definition from the squawker. The Cornwalls sound the best they have in 25 years.

Now, the only debate is should I try a tube preamp? I have been looking.

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Dflip

I understand your desire to get the best possible performance from your beloved Cornwalls. That said I am somewhat bemused by the following quote - I certainly have no quarrel with Al Klappanberger's comments about the values used but...:

How does the difference in values effect the sound?

I would strongly suggest that after using a set of speakers for 25 years you should have a strong enough memory of how they have sounded that if the changes in the capacitance values were having a major deleterious effect that any degradation in sound quality would be apparant to you. On the other hand if you are not hearing any degradation: Then it would be reasonable to assume that as a listener with 25 years experience you would recognise that the changes you have made are are of no significance.

If it sounds good - IT IS. If IT doesn't sound Good then there may be a problem.

------------------

It is meet to recall that the Great Green Heron rarely flies upside down in the moonlight - (Foo Ling ca.1900)

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