TP143 Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 Would you say both methods described above give the same effect? I ask because the note about a smooth response curve is only mentioned on the second option. If they give the same effect, I will likely go route #2 allowing me to keep all cap values at 2uf. I have posted a pic of this mod below; can someone explain how the resistor is connected to the plate, or if soldered to the "risers," how to make these and connect to the plate? http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/96341/1004714.aspx Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Hale Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 The leads from the 15 ohm/10W resistor are attached to the + and - screw-down terminals to the squawkwer, numbered 5, and 6 on the crossover board. This allows one to drop the horns down one numbered tap on the autoformer. It will give you a better balance with the woofer, and will let you hear if you might want to go further for a smooth impedance by spending the money on bigger (21uF) squawker capacitors. (The smooth impedance is probably good for most amps, but especially useful for low-powered tube amps with a high output impedance.) I think the other poster was talking about "risers" that raise the cabinet off of the floor a few inches and tilt them back a few degrees. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TP143 Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 I have decided on the first route which includes a higher cap value for the squaker. How important is it to match the uf value to 21? I see Dayton and Jantzen offer 20uf and 22uf. Are either of these ok or do I need to perfectly match? Also, in general is it worth the extra cost for lesser tolerance (1% verse 5%) in capacitors? Same goes for the resistors - Albright recommends 11ohm/20w and the closest I can find on PE is 10ohm/25w. Or else I can get 11ohm in 10w. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 I have decided on the first route which includes a higher cap value for the squaker. How important is it to match the uf value to 21? I see Dayton and Jantzen offer 20uf and 22uf. Are either of these ok or do I need to perfectly match? Also, in general is it worth the extra cost for lesser tolerance (1% verse 5%) in capacitors? Same goes for the resistors - Albright recommends 11ohm/20w and the closest I can find on PE is 10ohm/25w. Or else I can get 11ohm in 10w. Thanks again! 5% is good enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Hale Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 You could use 10 ohm with 22uF, or 12 ohms with 20uF. 10W resistor is probably OK unless you'll be blasting some really loud volumes. I used 12W Mills in that position which is fine. If you're using parts-express, I'd recommend the 1% Dayton caps. You could also use a 10 ohm resistor with a 20uF cap in parallel with a 1uF cap. If you're lucky, a pair of 20uF 5% Dayton caps could be close enough to each other, but I wouldn't want to use a 19uF cap in one speaker, and a 21uF cap in the other. The 1st order crossover is pretty forgiving, though. Erseaudio.com has some decent cheap crossover parts, caps at 3%. Something to be said for using inexpensive parts in your 1st crossover rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Boone Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 I'm new to this forum and actually just discovered it yesterday. It was nice to find some tech info about what I can do to give my 32 year old Heresys some overdue upgrades. I just got my Klipsch subwoofer and it's given me renewed passion in home theater and audio. Thanks to all the contributors. [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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