superedge88 Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 i am very satisfied with those answers haha. they all seem right and proper haha. I think some of the best explanations about subs i have read and not having to sift through 40 pages of banter crap. The one that kicks all their collective booties for the least money is the Tapped Horn sub using an Eminence LAB12 woofer. For about $175 driver and hardware cost with $100 worth of Oak Plywood, you can build your own. It will outperform any type of sealed or vented box. Or build a Spud Tapped Horn if you want a smaller box for about the same cost. And if you want even less distortion, go with the tuba ht. Trade offs in every design though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 i am very satisfied with those answers haha. they all seem right and proper haha. I think some of the best explanations about subs i have read and not having to sift through 40 pages of banter crap. The one that kicks all their collective booties for the least money is the Tapped Horn sub using an Eminence LAB12 woofer. For about $175 driver and hardware cost with $100 worth of Oak Plywood, you can build your own. It will outperform any type of sealed or vented box. Or build a Spud Tapped Horn if you want a smaller box for about the same cost. Danley DTS-10 is the booty kicker... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 i am very satisfied with those answers haha. they all seem right and proper haha. I think some of the best explanations about subs i have read and not having to sift through 40 pages of banter crap. The one that kicks all their collective booties for the least money is the Tapped Horn sub using an Eminence LAB12 woofer. For about $175 driver and hardware cost with $100 worth of Oak Plywood, you can build your own. It will outperform any type of sealed or vented box. Or build a Spud Tapped Horn if you want a smaller box for about the same cost. And if you want even less distortion, go with the tuba ht. Trade offs in every design though. I like Bill F's Tuba specs. I don't like the giant cube and the work it takes to build it. My TH is a coffee table, so it takes, effectively less space than any kind of seperate subwoofer box+standard (non-sub-woofing) coffee table. IOW, the dimensions are more to my liking, and the ease of build is "carpentry for dummies" level, since there are not angle cuts of any kind, all 90 degree cuts. Also, Bill Fitzmaurice Emailed me and said his Tuba was an 11-foot horn, with a 25 Hz. cutoff frequency. He depends on room gain to get to 20 Hz.. My Tapped Horn goes to 15 Hz. and is about 19 ft. long. So yes, it's all a trade off, but either way, it is still better performance for the $$$ spent than any direct radiator, ported or sealed. I also own two VMPS Large Subs, each with a 12" Active, 15" Active, and a 15" Passive in a port with built in passive Xover. With all that cone area, I used to shake the room with all those drivers and lotsa Watts. Now I do the same thing the coffee table TH and a single 12" driver..........frikkin amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Danley DTS-10 is the booty kicker... Yes indeed. It has TWO 12" drivers, one physically and electrically reversed so the already low harmonic distortions cancel out while increasing output by 6 db (bigger voice coils too) over the single 12" version. Also a bigger box and longer horn to get to 11 Hz. I remember reading about a guy who has 3 of them and wants to go the next step up................which I can't even imagine what that would be, since even a SINGLE DTS 10 with 1,000 cheap watts will shake concrete and bust out windows. You would need get a whole bunch of 18" drivers with passives in boxes, or a bunch of 18" actives in your walls with 10,000 Watts to even come close the what DTS 10's can do. One DTS-10 (bigger coffee Table) would be plenty for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Also, keep in mind that most cheap commercial subwoofers (and many expensive ones) barely make it to 30 Hz. with their inherent harmonic distortion. When we talk about Tapped Horns that EASILY make it to 20 Hz. , it's a whole other world of FEELING when you watch the latest Blue Rays. Plus, going down to 11 Hz. like the DTS-10 does, is a whole OCTAVE LOWER than 20 Hz., which is another world altogether. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonJCarney Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 The only thing stopping me from getting a THT kit is the price. Seems a little pricey for something I have to build myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panacea Engineering Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 If you are talking about the Danley, the quality of the wood and CNC cutting speaks for itself. Everything is precision cut and the appropropiate rabbit/dados are all done for you. Also, the Woofers are included, even the T Nuts are installed. I frankly do not know how they provide what they do for the price.....All you have to furnish is the some screws (wood/machine) and finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBXeRo Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 the spud and super spud are effing huge, no way i have room for them haha. Jesus christ, maybe one day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quiet_Hollow Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 The only thing stopping me from getting a THT kit is the price. Seems a little pricey for something I have to build myself. The link I sent you was for a completely assembled and finished device from a builder in FL. [:^)] Check Bill's website as he may list builders closer to you so you could even save on shipping.The THT has a proven track record of walking all-over anything else at it's price/size point. The design has been putting smiles on owners and scorn in neighbors for well over 6 years now, unchanged. You can build one yourself for under $400 in materials and components. Either way, for what horns (tapped or front-loaded) bring to the table, they're a no-brainer IMHO so long as you've got the space and the know-how to integrate them correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonJCarney Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I would love to try it. But I don't know that builder and unless someone from the forum can vouch for them then I'm not taking a chance. As for building one from plans.... Don't think I could do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 The only thing stopping me from getting a THT kit is the price. Seems a little pricey for something I have to build myself. The link I sent you was for a completely assembled and finished device from a builder in FL. Check Bill's website as he may list builders closer to you so you could even save on shipping.The THT has a proven track record of walking all-over anything else at it's price/size point. The design has been putting smiles on owners and scorn in neighbors for well over 6 years now, unchanged. You can build one yourself for under $400 in materials and components. Either way, for what horns (tapped or front-loaded) bring to the table, they're a no-brainer IMHO so long as you've got the space and the know-how to integrate them correctly. Amen. It's worth the extra lumber to get 10-20X better performance than direct radiators. Whether you are talking lower distortion, lower cutoff frequency, higher efficiency, less group delay, better transient response, etc. horns of any kind beat DR, but it does cost you cubic feet of lumber more than anything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RRFL Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 The only thing stopping me from getting a THT kit is the price. Seems a little pricey for something I have to build myself. The link I sent you was for a completely assembled and finished device from a builder in FL. Check Bill's website as he may list builders closer to you so you could even save on shipping.The THT has a proven track record of walking all-over anything else at it's price/size point. The design has been putting smiles on owners and scorn in neighbors for well over 6 years now, unchanged. You can build one yourself for under $400 in materials and components. Either way, for what horns (tapped or front-loaded) bring to the table, they're a no-brainer IMHO so long as you've got the space and the know-how to integrate them correctly. Amen. It's worth the extra lumber to get 10-20X better performance than direct radiators. Whether you are talking lower distortion, lower cutoff frequency, higher efficiency, less group delay, better transient response, etc. horns of any kind beat DR, but it does cost you cubic feet of lumber more than anything else. Here are the 2 sides post-routing, pre-drilling for fixing screws of my 1st Tuba HT LP project. This 1st Tuba HT LP project will be 72"x18"x25". The internal panels are 24" wide and the routing depth is 3 mm into the 12mm 18"x72" sides. I selected this design as it is the same type of horn as a Khorn, LaScala, Belle, Jubilee and MWM. It also has similar sensitivity and is said to be more than able to keep up with LaScala where other direct radiator units struggle or need to be massive. I selected the TUBA HT LP as the full cabinet width unit 72"long x 18"deep x 36"width can fit through doorways and can be mounted, horizontal or vertical, with the best result having the mouth in a corner against 2 of the corner planes and 18" away from the 3rd plane. I intend to build 4 TUBA HT LP. The next will be a pair of 18" width and will stand vertical mouth down in the corners behind my LaScala. An Ashly NE8800 will be used for control of alignment and EQ. The 4th TUBA HT LP will be full width 36" and will be mounted horizontal on the 18" side against the back wall of my Home Cinema 18" from the rear left room corner. My Jubilee/402/K69 will be in the 2 front room corners. My 1981 Heresy will be the rear surround. A 4.1 Cinema setup and an Ashly NE8800 will be used for control of alignment, EQ re-mixing centre into left and right. The next project will be to build a pair of modified Belle with K510/K69 using the TUBA HT LP 18"Dx18"W footprint behind pointing to the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 we need a sub horn that uses three walls of a corner instead of just two Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lindsey Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 The link I sent you was for a completely assembled and finished device from a builder in FL. Who's the builder in Florida? I had mine built by Zack Brock, and he does nice work. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quiet_Hollow Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 Who's the builder in Florida? I had mine built by Zack Brock, and he does nice work. Drey Chennells out of Orlando. I gave Jason the link to provide him a price point to work from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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