rpampt Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 I kind of asked this in passing in another thread, but hope someone has done this before. I know that the back is removable by removing the screws, but I would like to know how to remove the front baffle safely. I'm thinking about veneering the front, and it would be a whole lot easier with the board out. It appears to have been secured with a nail gun of some sort. The nails or staples or whatever are sunk well into the board maybe 1/4 inch or more. So can't just pull them out. I'm also assuming glue was applied at the same time. Looks like there is a gap all the way around of about 1/32- 1/16" where it does not touch the sides, so I don't think it's in a dado. I may flush mount the mids and tweets at the same time, but not sure yet. I may just try and refinish the cabs first, but my wife likes the wood fronts like my old speakers that I built a couple years ago. They had oak baffles and she preferred them to have the grills removed. The Cornwalls, not so much. So for the sake of WAF and mine as well, they may get a complete re-veneer. Anyway, enough of my ramble, has anyone removed these before and what's the "go to" method? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 I have removed the backs from Cornwall 2's that were glued and fastened on with the use of a heat gun and hydraulic jacks and pry bars and I'm going to tell you that I did this more to prove it could be done than it was the only way to accomplish what I wanted so I am going to strongly suggest that you leave them on and deal with refinishing them in place. On the other hand, if you just have to do it, here's what me and a few cases of Coors light did. Note these were plywood constructed not MDF. http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/133091.aspx?PageIndex=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budman Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 what you call the front baffle we call the motorboard. i did this on my 74's but they had 17 screws to hold it in. if you have staples you are going to have to use a pry bar which is not going to be pretty. i would lay it face down on the carpet and use a heavy rubber mallet and whack it a few times around the edges and see what happens. if it starts coming out great. if not you might have to use a prybar. you can always use screws to put it back together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WHayton Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 I removed mine with a few light taps with a hammer when I replaced it with my version of a vertical Cornwall. There are staples so work all around the edges of the motorboard. Remember that the cabinet is not fully supported when the back and motorboard are removed. Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpampt Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 OK, motorboard. Maybe applying heat would also be a good idea. I'll see what happens. I doubt I would get to it before summertime. Did it have glue as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WHayton Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Yes there is glue but not too much and it came off easily enough, just take it eazy with the hammer. I also did this with a Heresy that I converted from a I to a II, that's what happens when you want a single Heresy and buy the parts. I thought about front mounting when I did the Cornwall but the aluminum horn is not as easy to mount as the plactic one plus it means a bunch more routing. Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Richard Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 You could always overlay with some thin veneered wood cut out for the drivers and ports. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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