ClaudeJ1 Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 Very simple and a great performer. You don't need the inductor, it doesn't roll off nearly enough, and it affects the response in a negative manner in the passband. Use the sub out on receiver with a 40-70 Hz. cutoff, or get a Crown XTI-1000 or use a Behringer DCS 2496 with a steep 18-60 hz. L-R slope (24 or 48 db/octave). The one member is perpendicular, the one that wraps around it is rectangular with a tilt at the short piece K.........very easy to do.Gorilla glue will expand to fill any gaps. In my case, I used pocket holes and screws fromthe inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snailtrax Posted September 24, 2012 Author Share Posted September 24, 2012 PM sent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 Very simple and a great performer. You don't need the inductor, it doesn't roll off nearly enough, and it affects the response in a negative manner in the passband. Use the sub out on receiver with a 40-70 Hz. cutoff, or get a Crown XTI-1000 or use a Behringer DCS 2496 with a steep 18-60 hz. L-R slope (24 or 48 db/octave). The one member is perpendicular, the one that wraps around it is rectangular with a tilt at the short piece K.........very easy to do.Gorilla glue will expand to fill any gaps. In my case, I used pocket holes and screws fromthe inside. I threw together a Sketchup of that design from your JPEG. Attached is a zip file with that sketchup file. Unless I miscalculated, the horn length is 16' 6 13/16", and is therefore tuned to about 17Hz. Have you done any measurements of it? lab12TH.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 Very simple and a great performer. You don't need the inductor, it doesn't roll off nearly enough, and it affects the response in a negative manner in the passband. Use the sub out on receiver with a 40-70 Hz. cutoff, or get a Crown XTI-1000 or use a Behringer DCS 2496 with a steep 18-60 hz. L-R slope (24 or 48 db/octave). The one member is perpendicular, the one that wraps around it is rectangular with a tilt at the short piece K.........very easy to do.Gorilla glue will expand to fill any gaps. In my case, I used pocket holes and screws fromthe inside. I threw together a Sketchup of that design from your JPEG. Attached is a zip file with that sketchup file. Unless I miscalculated, the horn length is 16' 6 13/16", and is therefore tuned to about 17Hz. Have you done any measurements of it? Yes. it's ruler flat from 20-60 at the mouth, and goes down to 15 Hz. with room gain........very low Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 Here's the one I actually built (old stack in corner and Cornwall center, which I sold). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 I couldn't figure out what that was on the sub till I blew the pic up. Looks like a remote. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 That's gotta be the simplest tapped horn sub on the planet to build. I bet you could port out the side like the spuds if you wanted. this: compared to this: granted, the DTS-10 has two massive drivers, which is gonna make it kick butt, but the LAB aint no sissy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 I think this one is a little bit simpler but it does not go as low. Best regards Moray James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snailtrax Posted September 25, 2012 Author Share Posted September 25, 2012 Does anyone have a cutsheet for the Lab 12? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 Everything you need can be found here: http://www.eminence.com/speakers/speaker-detail/?model=LAB_12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snailtrax Posted September 26, 2012 Author Share Posted September 26, 2012 I meant a layout for cutting the plywood for the Lab 12 tapped horn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 I meant a layout for cutting the plywood for the Lab 12 tapped horn. I'll see if I can find it and scan it. You only need 2 sheets of 4x8 plywood........about $50/sheet at home depot and one tube of PL glue....and screws, of course. I assembled mine with pocket screws (about $99 for the kit) with the top upside down (yes that is a remote on top of thetop for scale). I did a layout for easiest cuts. There was not much lumber leftover, which is why I like this design. It kicks major butt, is easy to build, and uses a really good driver. In this Tapped Horn, it's equivalent to a couple of 18's, so I heard on the DIY forum. It really shakes the house at those super low frequencies from movies and music too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Here's the layout I used to build my Eminence LAB 12 Driver Tapped Horn........It's, by far, the easiest, cheapest to build of all the subs out there with excellent performance similar to the Danley DTS-20, which, I think, sells for about 3 kilobucks. This one is about 300 bucks with only 2 sheets of plywood. Good luck, Bill. TappedHornPanelLayout.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 (edited) Here are the assembly dimensions I used as derived from the original document. I used pocket screws and built it on the "A" piece, then screwed the bottom on. I marked everything out in pencil on A first. Don't bother with any access panel like in the orignator's photo because the woofer is easily accessible from the mouth, making things even simpler. If you want to save money, you can build it out of MDF, which would take the costs down to the $200 range, including the Eminence LAB 12 driver. Although I have not modeled it, you could add about 3 inches to the height, and get the more expensive LAB 15 Driver, which would double your output, but I think it's better to build TWO with the 12's and put them in the best spots in the room to solve bass problems. 2 or 4 subs is better than one, so spread out the room anomalies. If you build the "inner U" rectangular piece separately (J, H, and I), it is the only piece that is slightly tilted at the smallest piece of wood K near the throat. Otherwise, everything else is squared up. Only 11 pieces of wood to cut and assemble for killer perfomance. How cool is that!! Tapped Horn Assembly Dimensions.pdf Edited July 29, 2014 by ClaudeJ1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snailtrax Posted October 1, 2012 Author Share Posted October 1, 2012 Thanks, That was what I was looking for. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 (edited) That's gotta be the simplest tapped horn sub on the planet to build. I bet you could port out the side like the spuds if you wanted. this: I think 4 of these would easily equal a DTS 10, except it would cut off about 5 Hz. higher. You are right about build simplicity for a MULTI-FOLD design. If you made the box 8 feet long, you could do a single diagonal piece to make the horn and it would be way simple yet, with only 7 pieces, which is how the design began, I think. Edited July 29, 2014 by ClaudeJ1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Scientist Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snailtrax Posted October 11, 2012 Author Share Posted October 11, 2012 I just noticed what you said about the more expensive 15 inch driver and about three inches higher. Must have missed it earlier. Can you model it? I think a lot of folks would like that. I do not have room for two. When you say "double your output" , What does that mean? SPL or Lower freqency? Thanks, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 I just noticed what you said about the more expensive 15 inch driver and about three inches higher. Must have missed it earlier. Can you model it? I think a lot of folks would like that. I do not have room for two. When you say "double your output" , What does that mean? SPL or Lower freqency? Thanks, Bill Eminence makes a 15" LAB Driver but it's about $120 more. Same Xmax but larger cone area means greater output, not lower response, which is a function of the Tapped Horn Length. Making the cabinet 3" taller would increase the size of the entire horn. I could model it but I'm really busy right now, so it will be a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snailtrax Posted October 11, 2012 Author Share Posted October 11, 2012 I can wait. Only want to do this once. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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