Bernie Posted June 18, 2002 Share Posted June 18, 2002 How do I update my old cornwalls and how much will it cost? Model # C2-BR Serial # 8650158 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipschguy Posted June 18, 2002 Share Posted June 18, 2002 Bernie, Welcome to the Klipsch forum. Your Cornwalls should not need to be updated. My 1977 Cornwalls are bone stock and they sound great. Changing the drivers + other components from their original configuration will tend to devalue your speakers. Some here like to upgrade/change their crossovers. ALK crossovers are popular with a lot of people here (try alkeng.com). Are your 1986 Cornwalls giving you some kind of problem? Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted June 18, 2002 Share Posted June 18, 2002 Bernie, I don't think there IS an upgrade for Cornwall II models...besides, why mess-up a good thing? ------------------ I can now receive private messages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernie Posted June 18, 2002 Author Share Posted June 18, 2002 Thanks for the advice!! They still sound great. The only problem is that the exterior could use a new Veneer wrap with maple or walnut to spruce them up a little bit!! Does Klipsch do exterior upgrades? Cost? Or shgould i just find a local craftsman? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShapeShifter Posted June 18, 2002 Share Posted June 18, 2002 Here are some procedures for cleaning up veneer finishes. They were originally posted by a member of this forum. I take no credit, as I only copied the instructions, edited and saved them for my personal benefit. They may be useful for you too. You can take some Danish oil, mix it with Minwax & your color stain choice (50/50). Buff into the veneer or wood with #0000 fine steel wool (use light, quick strokes in direction of grain), then buff heavily with an old bath towel, then let dry. Caution: Klipsch veneer is very thin, so use extra caution when working the corners/edges! Couple of hints: 1) Do one side at a time and make sure the side facing up when you're working on it. 2) Use the #0000 steel wool only soaked with the stain/oil, not dry. Dry steel wool will give off steel fibers, which could work their way into the magnet assemblies of the drivers. Remove all remnants of steel wool from the cabinets not forgetting the corners! You can even masking tape some packaging paper over the driver openings to be sure. Make sure grill cloths are off for procedure as they can pick up steel wool fibers. Grill cloths can be cleaned up with upholstery cleaner and a soft brush. If pretty fuzzy, the grills can be shaved with one of those electric fabric shaver things available at drug stores or Wal-Mart. The grills will have a crisp, new look after a good shave (kind of like me). This procedure requires a bit of elbow grease, but will be well worth it. A note of Caution: You do these at your own risk, do a test patch, don't get it on the carpet, don't use too much pressure, and use common sense. Apologies for stating the obvious. ------------------ KLIPSCH IS MUSICf> My Systems f>s>c> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipschguy Posted June 18, 2002 Share Posted June 18, 2002 Shapeshifter is right about how to spruce up veneer and grillcloth. However, I suspect your speakers are raw birch since you put "BR" in your first post. If you want walnut veneered cabinets, you'll either need to do it yourself or contact a furniture/cabinet builder in your local area. If you want to stain your cabinets, you may want some various opinions, as it can be difficult to get an even finish on raw birch. BTW, I breathed new life into my brother's walnut veneered Cornwalls using the Danish oil, stain, mineral spirits, and steel wool technique (as described above) and it worked very, very well. I recently went over my own walnut veneered Cornwall cabinets using a slight formula variation: dark stain, boiled linseed oil, and turpentine (1:2:2). Also worked VERY well. Be sure and buff each side well 5 min. after application. Buff again after 24 hours to pick up any left over stain residue. Regards, Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShapeShifter Posted June 18, 2002 Share Posted June 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by ShapeShifter: I take no credit, as I only copied the instructions, edited and saved them for my personal benefit..... kg, NO WAY are they my instructions! As stated I copied the info from a search I did here sometime last year. Could very well be one of your original posts. Sounds very similar. But they were very useful in getting some veneer cabinets up to speed. Just don't want to take credit for something I did not develop. Wes ------------------ KLIPSCH IS MUSICf> My Systems f>s>c> This message has been edited by ShapeShifter on 06-18-2002 at 01:57 PM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipschguy Posted June 18, 2002 Share Posted June 18, 2002 Shapeshifter, I was giving you credit for kindly taking the time to post, not for the techniques themselves. Yes, they were from a couple of my old posts, but I don't care much about getting any credit. Just want people here to have speakers they can be proud of! Warmest regards, Andy P.S. You left out the part about using one of the wife's best bath towels to buff the cabinets! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herc Posted June 18, 2002 Share Posted June 18, 2002 To avoid getting uneven staining of raw birch use a pre stain conditioner, this will even out the stain you apply.Works for light coloured woods with porous grains. If your using Danish oil. You can avoid usng the steel wool pads by using the abrasive pads (3M-I think or simliar brand)instead. They look like those green dishwashing pads. They work great. Good luck Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernie Posted June 18, 2002 Author Share Posted June 18, 2002 Awesome advice and thanks a million. I'll give it a shot!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBryan Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 Excellent tips. Quick question though, are the tips suggested for Laquered or Oil finishes? I have a CWII with oiled walnut finish and want to remove some water stains and scratches before I refresh the oil. Thanks again for the tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herc Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 JBryan- the lacquer finish is not as penetrating as oils.I dont regard lacquer as a great finish.I never use it. To get stains and discolouration marks out you can try wood bleach to minimize the stain, this will bring it to a level for more even staining.This is after you take the finish top coat off as best you can( sand paper, chemical strippers etc) THIS IS NOT LAUNDRY BLEACH, it can be obtained at most hardware stores. You can also try a deck renew product(used to bring colour back to cedar decks)this is a weaker product. ALWAYS DO A TEST AREA FIRST !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 JBRYAN, I wouldn't use wood bleach unless those stains on an oil finish are very severe...it would help out alot to see GOOD pics of what you are concerned with though!! For mild scratches that are just into but NOT THROUGH the veneer, they can often be lifted up with an application of distilled water rubbed into the veneer and then an iron set on LOW applied to them...the ABSORBED water in the wood grain will swell the scratches' depth up to the surface as it turns to steam, then you can use very fine steel wool to smooth it out...it may take more than one application of the water and iron treatment to lift the scratches up to a flush surface, though. If the water stains ARE NOT severe, a touch up of the lighter discolored areas with some diluted walnut stain MAY make them disappear...then give them a good rubbing with extra-fine steel wool and re-oil them. Just saying you have scratches is not enough info...the depth of the scratch, whether the grain of the veneer has been broken, or whether the "scratch" is basically a linear indentation with no broken wood grain, etc...determines how one goes about making a repair!! Water damage repairs are also relevant to the severity of the discoloration, etc., too...in determining a proper repair. Still, without seeing the damage, it is difficult to recommend a fix!! There is NO BLANKET FIX that covers ANYTHING when dealing with wood/finish damage...each situation demands its own remedy!! More info, Please!! ------------------ I can now receive private messages This message has been edited by HDBRbuilder on 06-19-2002 at 01:17 PM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herc Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 HDBRbuilder- Ive always thought the iron/water method was more for depressions made by an impact to the wood and not scratches. Does work great for that though,with patience! Might take several tries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herc Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 HDBRbuilder- Ive always thought(and used)that the iron/water method was more for depressions made by an impact to the wood and not scratches. Does work great for that though,with patience! Might take several tries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShapeShifter Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by JBryan: Excellent tips. Quick question though, are the tips suggested for Laquered or Oil finishes? I have a CWII with oiled walnut finish and want to remove some water stains and scratches before I refresh the oil. Thanks again for the tips. Those in my post are for Oil Finishes like yours. Be very careful when sanding near edges too. Wes ------------------ KLIPSCH IS MUSICf> My Systems f>s>c> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipschguy Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 The black water rings, that oiled walnut veneer tends to get, usually run deep into the veneer and are permanent. They are very difficult to remove, and usually need to be sanded out (or just left alone!). Watch out if you sand 'em, you may be through the thin veneer before the ring is out. I sanded some black rings out of my Heresys and I couldn't believe how much sanding it took! I'm glad I didn't go through the veneer. I have one black water ring on one of my Cornwalls and I have no intention of going after it. I just make sure the rest of the veneer looks great to offset it. I also have a piece of smoked glass on top of each speaker to prevent knuckleheads from adding any future beauty marks to my lovely Cornwalls. Andy P.S. Don't put oil on laquered cabinets. Oil on oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 Like I said about scratches...what some consider scratches are actually no more than just linear indentations into the wood....others consider it a scratch when the indentation breaks the grain of the wood...and still others don't know the difference between a gouge and a "scratch"...and until I either get a more detailed description or good pics I can't tell what he means. As for the "black water ring that walnut veneer tends to get"...that all depends on a number of factors....some water stains are relatively easy to doctor and some are more severe...blanket statements like that are erroneous. About ten or so years ago it became common for most pre-veneered walnut panels to be of the "dye-impregnated" type...meaning that the veneers were dyed with a natural walnut stain to even the coloration and to more easily provide close matching of veneers sliced from different logs...prior to about a decade ago, the veneers were very seldom dyed. Dyed veneers tend to create much more difficult severe discoloration from water staining than un-dyed veneers...so that is a factor to consider in the repair technique...besides, we have NOT been given any other information than "water stains" with which to come up with a solution...that isn't exactly a detailed description of the malady!! Bottom line is...there are as many fixes for a problem as there are types of problems and severity OF those problems...and until a better description of the damage can be given, OR GOOD pics, I will not venture to provide a guaranteed solution to the problems...the rest of you can if you want...but I believe that it is folly to provide a SEVERE FIX for a NON-SEVERE problem...it is much better to KNOW EXACTLY WHAT THE PROBLEM IS BEFORE MAKING JUDGEMENT AS TO THE CORRECT SOLUTION!! And, at this point the exact nature of the problem hasn't been clarified enough to provide the BEST solution!! All I have read is "scratches" and "water stains"...did anybody else read anything differently? ------------------ I can now receive private messages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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