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Crossover advice for RB-5's


Mezball

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Hello all,

So, as topic states looking for some advice or opinion about the crossover in a pair of 13 year old RB-5's.

First a little history, about them. Purchased new in 2000, used quite a bit after purchase for about 3-4's years with a sub, then pretty much only use once in a while up until a 2 years ago, in which they been used for home theater. They have seen a few subs, pre-amp, and amp combos, from NAD, B&K, Marantz, Yahama, etc.

Currently, I am using a Marantz SR5004 as a pre-amp, with a pair of Emovita UPA-200's powering the fronts/surrounds (RB-5 and RS-3), an AMC-2100 in bridged mode for the center(Klipsch RC-3), and OutLaw LFM-1 Plus sub. The room is somewhere between small and medium with low ceilings.

Lately, it seems the mid-range has been kind of laid back, not as pronounce like a couple years ago. Nothing has changed with cabling or room placement, maybe it is just my hearing going, lol.

Anyway, I was thinking of maybe replacing the caps in the crossover or the crossovers with something completely different. So my choices:

1) Replace caps with originals?

2) Replace caps with polypropylene, opinions?

3) Replace complete crossover with 1 of the following:

A - Lex Audio LX-CX38 (1800Hz) http://www.lexaudio.us/crossovers.html (Click on PDF file on the left to get specs)

B - Lex Audio LX-CX37 (2000Hz) http://www.lexaudio.us/crossovers.html

C - Dayton Audio X02W-2K (2000Hz) http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-xo2w-2k-2-way-speaker-crossover-2000-hz--260-140

D - Eminence PXB2:1K6 (1600Hz) http://www.parts-express.com/eminence-pxb2-1k6-2-way-speaker-crossover-board-1600-hz--290-634

Thanks!

Edited by Mezball
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Your hearing has changed. The original parts are still perfectly fine.

Stay away from crossovers modeled to work with other drivers and cabinets.

You can still benefit by changing out the two epoxy coated polypropylenes that are in series with the horn with some ESA Series ClarityCap capacitors from Madisound. I like the 20 watt M-resist Mundorf resistors they sell too. Mills is preferred over stock as well.

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Thanks for the reply DeanG. While browsing the forum, I read a couple times you gave the same advice about just switching out the caps, and the resistors. Earlier today before reading your reply, I ordered the ESA Series ClarityCap caps, and the Mills resistors.

Kind of figured my hearing has changed. Vision starting going 3 years ago, now the hearing.

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Thanks for the reply DeanG. ....

Kind of figured my hearing has changed. Vision starting going 3 years ago, now the hearing.

It stinks getting old though at least the hearing has lasted this long. Usually using Klipsch speakers that can play clean and loud, the ears start to go first. :ohmy:

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Will be interested to hear what you think of the up=grade when it is done, it may inspire me to do my RB-5's.

I finally completed the upgrade a couple days ago. Replacing the caps, and resistor really did change the sound of the RB-5's. The midrange now has a more in your face sound to it, compared to before. Another thing I did notice is the high end has less of a sizzle to it, they aren't as bright as they were.

If you decide to do this, this is what I used to upgrade:

1) Carity Cap 3.0 mfd

2) Carity Cap 12 mfd

3) Mills 4 Ohm 12 watt resistor.

The new caps are huge compare to the originals, you will need to be creative on placement. Also, the old caps are glued down pretty good to the board.

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Although I do NOT own a set of RB-5's, I happened to have a pair of RB-5 XO's (P/N 116436) laying around and decided to follow along. I noticed that no mention was made of the 20.0mfd in the LPF. Is this because no significant gains can be made by replacing it? Does this same "general" advice, of only upgrading the HPF, apply to all Reference Series speakers? I have a RC-3 and (4) RS-42's that I may give this a try on. I have a spare RC-3 XO (somewhere), but if I recall correctly, it is a double sided board that would probably require mounting away from the terminal plate.

I've been reading selected topics on the Klipsch Forum for several years, but finally decided to join in. Some of us "Old Retired Folks" still aren't that comfortable using computers.

Thanks; Jack

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just a little update. This weekend I completed my RB5 project. I replaced the internal wiring with some high quality 16 gauge very fine strand oxygen free wire, dampen the horn, and cabinet with some GTMAT Quadro four layer foam sound Deadener ( http://gtsoundcontrol.com/shop/GTMat-Quadro/ ). Also, added some poly-fill to the upper half of the cabinet, and very little to the bottom.

Result? A much better sounding speaker, IMHO. A more neutral sound. The highs are smooth without that ringing, the mids aren't recessed, more forward, and the bass is tighter, less boomy. Over all I very happy. Just think, a couple months ago, I wanted to replace these, because of that lack of mid-range, and fatigue I was getting at medium listening levels. Not anymore.

Edited by Mezball
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  • 10 years later...

I need some help diagnosing a pair of RB-5… at low levels they sound pretty good but at a moderate listening level they get muddy and distorted. Sounds almost like a blown driver but they feel tight and there’s no dragging or scratching when carefully moved by hand. I thought it might be the crossovers. Any advice on diagnosing would be appreciated 

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