pzannucci

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About pzannucci

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  1. Keep us up to date. Probably not as crystal clear as a true ribbon (though probably cleaner that the CT120) but also probably has more body than a true ribbon. The dispersion characteristics and listening position will make the most change in the character with this type of tweeter.
  2. Considering the number and the stacking of boards in these types of receivers, it will likely be quite a chore getting it clean with spray cleaner but give it a try. A long stent outside would probably be good too. Probably come back every time it heats up. Good Luck.
  3. Yes or some light sanding and use some minwax (or other brand) ebony stain. May be close enough after several coats.
  4. You are not saying what is wrong with the network. Is it on the woofer, mid, or treble. Each circuit can be individual and isolated out. Which portion of the circuit is it on and have you replaced the components on that circuit as there are only a couple? Very simple circuits. You could get a woofer tester, hook dummy loads on the speaker terminals and see what is happening.
  5. Yes for music. Depending if you are getting below the woofer fs and tuning frequency, I think that's pretty much where you are changing the roll off to add extension. That extension needs power and you have to decide if it is worth it or not. No real free lunch from a power perspective but you will have those lower frequencies for HT available by adding mass or volume.
  6. All dictated by the air load presented by the box (or weight of passive) of which you would think the pressure in all the parts of the box are the same to drive the passive. This air load can be affected and adjusted (why passives are used in many instances) by the weight of the passive radiator. Just as with ports and the weight of the air volume. As John said, a woofer and a passive without the appropriate amount of air in the box or weight of the passive radiator to make up for the air load, will resonate in unison. Not good but you do bring up something interesting. What about a more tightly coupled woofer and heavy passive? I think that is how some manufacturers are able to get very extended output without having to do it with crazy amounts of eq and power in a small cabinet. You should play with this calculator and plug in some numbers http://www.mh-audio.nl/PassiveRadiator.asp using a passive such as https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sd315-pr-12-passive-radiator--295-496 or two or three, adjusting the weight.
  7. You are misunderstanding how a passive radiator works. Passives don't channel sound. The only way you could do better is to use a tube that connects the woofer to the passive directly containing enough air to provide the appropriate low frequency tuning and load on the passive and woofer. Unlikely to provide a noticeable difference. As Moray said, you are trying to fix a problem that doesn't need fixing. The passive radiator merely vibrates due to and in unison with the "air load" in the box. Increase the air load or mass of the passive radiator, you lower the frequency of the vibration. Same way a port works. You don't harvest the sound from the rear of a cone (you don't want to harvest the sound as a matter of fact for bass, that is why passives are used over ports in some speakers - no upper/mid leakage) unless you are doing a horn. That is why there are speaker boxes such as bandpass.
  8. From what I have seen with most subwoofers that have speaker level outs, they have a capacitor on the output that will roll off the main speakers. Do you want to roll off the LaScalas? The documentation states that you should use the speaker level outputs of the sub for RM series speakers or similar. Since those are small speakers it is likely that the sub has a crossover in line and most likely starts attenuating the low frequency response at 100hz or so. You should verify this since the manual for the sub is a little slim. I'd parallel the speakers and sub to the amp for insurance.
  9. I think what you are missing and is at issue is that the passive radiator is not there to pass on the sound of the woofer so you don't necessarily need a particular coupling. It is a resonating point, just as a port, based on a volume of air. Look at the calculators, information on bass reflex and helmholtz resonators. The key is pressure built up in the sealed box. Will the box have pressure built up in different areas differently? If you can model that perhaps you can find a better location in a box for a port or passive.
  10. That's the i35 corridor. If you are anywhere in TX, look at Houston also. TX is big so you have to figure you will need to drive for just about any deal.
  11. You decide. Watch craigslist for DFW, Austin, and San Antonio.
  12. $800-$1100 in DFW for the pair
  13. You can edit the title if you edit the first post.
  14. Agreed. I would not be selling the KLF30s unless you absolutely want a serious match for your center. Not many speakers will keep up with them, particularly for what you could get for a sale.