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About pzannucci

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  1. I've often thought the same things as you. I would have expected the 30 to be crossed lower than the 20 made more sense but not the case according to Klipsch. The steeper crossover could actually be for power handling since those numbers are likely very rough. The 30's likely intent would be for louder usage (along with higher efficiency) that the 20's aren't typically going to see. I have dual klf-20 woofers in my hand built speakers and even in a wide open area attached to a 23x24x9 room, can crank shaking the foundation so not sure how much more you would want though the 30s can do more. I will say that if the 30's had a mid bass, they would be an extraodinary speaker as the twelves can sound a little tubby in the midbass-crossover region. Dropping the mid to 700-750 with tweaks to the crossover might resolve that. Something the 20s I have heard don't have. If you did go for a steeper slope on the mids and woofer, that might tighten up the imaging some due to lowering the driver overlap.
  2. I have to agree here. Plenty of power and runs cool. Does not sound as bright as some of the other pairings of equipment. The Pioneer Elite low end model would be great with good warranty and good sound under $1K
  3. I think you are misinterpreting the crossovers and the function of what is done by the components. I believe the coil in the klf30 is used to increase the slope of the crossover for the high pass, not the low pass. When inductors are used for low pass, they are usually in series with the driver to provide a shunt vs. parallel. Klipsch often uses the natural rolloff of the driver as the crossover point and low pass. As WMcD stated above, minimal number of components to reduce loses of those components. To establish a target frequency with a steeper rolloff would require changing the capacitor.
  4. First off do you mean 511b and 811b horns? 811b can't do 500 hz. Since you are trying to squeeze a driver lower, likely lower in frequency where a passive crossover would be majorly affected by the resonant frequency of the driver, you would need significant compensation in the crossover to make the crossover work correctly with that resonant peak. You don't do what you are trying by using a passive crossover in my opinion. Also since you are down at the resonant frequency, your distortion will be higher and maybe unacceptable. If you will be happy with the resonant area distortion and going active, the best you can do is to increase the slope to avoid over excursion and too low of a frequency from getting into the driver. Another thing you aren't talking about is the response of the driver. Most drivers are down significantly at the frequency extremes. How will you manage that? The power handling will go up and would need to be tested to be realistic but it does seem you will have a lot of compromises that you will require a speaker management system to overcome (eq and slope in particular) and if you are still talking passive, good luck with making your implementation sound good with passive. Stay with biamp and a lot of processing power.
  5. Got 2 BNIB RP-280F's for Sale.

    Is there really that much of a problem where you are with counterfeiting? I guess all these nice new scanners and printers, maybe...
  6. Finally got my RP280f

    They will loosen up and mellow out with time.
  7. Finally got my RP280f

    Move them to about a foot or so from the rear wall and feed them well with a good amplifier. That will do the bottom end much more justice.
  8. I would like you to show me an inexpensive tube amp that has drive in the bass and still sounds liquid in the mids/treble, particularly with around 35watts per channel? I agree you can get some bass slam (more reasonably tubey bass) with much more expensive equipment. The lack of definition described puts it into the tubey bass category with that style speaker.
  9. The reason I never sold mine since buying them new. Ton of other speakers have come and gone. It may have been the best balanced speaker for it's intended usage though I would like to hear RB75s. I believe the RB5s were to be used in some studios for monitors.
  10. My KLF 30 rebuild with pictures.

    Careful, it can reduce punch and maybe not work as you think in some speakers i.e. pretending your volume is back again. Best to measure its affects on the tuning of the speaker (if you have something like wt3 or alike for the resonance/tuning dip) and listen to it with your chosen amp. That will help you verify the results and help you decide best course of action.
  11. Buyer Beware

    Agreed. This is definitely not rocket science. Resistor, most simple meters, and amplifier can allow you to understand what the circuit is doing.
  12. Had you tried the RP160s with a different amp to understand if it is synergy between the two components that is lost? If find that the several tube amps I had did not have slam, particularly next to the Class D amps I now use. Also you have to look at speaker positioning with the rear ports and just plain size and set expectations appropriately. If there is really no clarity in the bass vs output, I would look at the room and the amp/speaker pairing and just test another type of amp. In my opinion, tubes are very liquid in the mids and typically image well but if I was looking for slam, bass impact, and such, I'd be looking elsewhere. This is one of the reasons I don't move back to tubes. It costs a lot to get everything with tubes.
  13. Negative Reviews

    If the specs aren't there, don't buy. Don't rant and stay on the subject making sense and providing the information to the forum will help it work itself out. If there is a problem with quality do the same. The threads stink when there are rants that don't make sense. Nonsensical rants turn folks off and get threads locked quicker than rants that make sense. Probably these will get locked too as explained earlier in this thread.
  14. Recommendation for bookshelf speaker?

    RP series over the R series. RP-160M are very good speakers.
  15. Get better!! Tis the season... for colds and flu that is.