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digjr

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I don't have them here, but there are two plans for LaScalas floating around. One is the German plans, the other is by a board member.

The rest you could reverse engineer without too much trouble. You'd have to dope out the Belle dimensions from the specs, knowing the overall geometry is similar to the LaScala.

The Heresy is just a sealed box. So that is no problem.

The Cornwall is a vented box. I haven't seen anything about the geometry of the vent. Maybe someone will pass that along.

Gil

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also, i have some day coming in the mail the La Scala plans, 42 pages full color, 60 pages total.

still waiting for them... getting worried that i just lost $65 now, been a little too long.

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-justin

A technical help site created by me and my fellow Klipschers

promediatech@Klipsch.com /1-888-554-5665 - RA# 800-554-7724 ext 5

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Cornwall has a TUNED shelf-style port...the shelf for the port's dimensions are easily measured for its height, width, and depth from inside the cabinet(it is cut from 3/4" plywood as are its two side supports)...it is glued and nailed(or stapled, according to model) to supporting blocks(which are glued and stapled to the cabinet sides) on each side and through the speaker front into its front edge just above the port openings...the port opening locations and size are critical to its CORRECT performance and bottom panel cabinet strength, too!

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HDBR...or anybody in the know.....

I'm considering putting together a rear center and was thinking of a basic CW-type unit. Part of the consideration is to forsake the current mid style 'straight horn' in favor of something a bit more 'spacious', say a 511B or equivilent. This would be a bigger horn and would not fit within the confines of the CW cabinet proper and thus, would in all likelyhood have to sit atop in it's own upper cab.

So the question is, should I reduce the cabinet size to account for the lack of mass that the mid-horn would normally occupy? Or is the difference really a nit in the overall scheme of things?

Thanks!

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Ed

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Hey justin,

I looked into those plans your waiting for and they look like they have a lot of "filler" plans that you can get off of the internet. I purchased some plans for Khorns and they had a couple of errors in them. Are you aware of the Italian site that has the plans for La Scalas? They are in metric but easy to figure out.If not let me know and I will send them to you.

My modified korns are close to being finished and I will post pics soon on here.

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For digjr: I see there have been some posts in this subset about shorthorns with links to a site.

In the shorthorn bass unit: the woofer fires out forward as a direct radiator. The back is a chamber, the chamber has a tall thin vent in the back which feeds a short horn section formed by the sides of the cabinet. So it works sort of like a horn loaded bass reflex port.

Advantages are simplicy of construction and the effect of the front firing woofer. The upper bass comes off that and therefore a smaller midrange can be used since it doesn't have to handle low (for it) frequencies.

There is a patent and an article about it. If you're interested I can find them and send them.

- - - -

My reading about bass reflex design, like the Cornwall is that the "as built" interior volume (in cubic inches, etc.) takes into account the actually driver, other drivers, and bracing. And of course you're looking at the interior, not exterior volume. I'd agree with you that the midrange in the Cornwall takes up so little volume that its loss might be negligeable.

I see that the real key to bass reflex design is to set the mechanical resonance frequency of the combination of the volume of the box (air spring) and the mass of the air in the port. The spring plus the mass sets the frequency box frequency. The initial calculations for the box and the port are just starting points.

The experts look at the measured resonance frequency as built and then will adjust the port size to hit the frequency desired. That frequency is usually very close to the resonant frequency of the driver. Therefore it "loads" the driver at resonance and a bit below and above and capitalizes on the energy coming off the back of the bass driver. This is where bass response would otherwise be falling off.

While I'm here and not that anyone asked. . .

The bass reflex box also acts as a "phase reverser." I was thinking about this just today crossing the street and almost got hit by a CTA bus.

At first thought, the sound coming out the bass duct would be in phase with the sound coming off the back of the bass driver. This means it would be out of phase with the bass coming off the front of the driver. They'd add to zero at the outside of the cabinet.

But that is not the case. Rather, the box spring and port mass form a resonant filter which reverses the phase coming out the port.

I believe the analogy is one of those toys with a paddle (the driving force) and a ball (mass) on a rubber band. Let the ball hang free and move the paddle up and down (not striking the ball) until the ball reaches a natural frequency. I think we'll find that when the ball is at its low point, the paddle is at its high point. So the ball is out of phase with the paddle.

By analogy, the mass of air in the port is moving out of phase with the back of the bass driver (at resonance) and in phase with the front of the driver. So they add!

I'll have to find one of the silly toys to check it out.

Ohhh, humm, another long post.

Gil

This message has been edited by William F. Gil McDermott on 07-25-2002 at 09:32 PM

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Edwardre,

Why not just load the proper components into the Cornwall cabinet and leave what you don't need unhooked from the crossover?...that way you can always make it into a cornwall at a later date if you want...and save the worries of the interior volume...OR you can make a wooden replica of the driver, mount it to the horn lens, and use the water displacement method to determine how much interior volume it actually takes up so you can reduce the cabinet volume by the correct amount...(BUT, that may still require a retuning for the port part of the cabinet, depending on whether the actual place you reduce the interior volume has any adverse effect on the port tuning!!)...leaving the mid horn and driver in, but unhooked, seems the easiest solution to me, BUT it is YOUR choice! Smile.gif

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This message has been edited by HDBRbuilder on 07-26-2002 at 09:35 PM

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