sean5340 Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 It seems like I need to remove the bottom plate where the pots are. Is there a safe way to do this? I tried asking on AK with no resonses. I'm thinking some heat may help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 It's a very thin piece of aluminum, and will bend easily. Mine are coming unglued, just from age. I removed one and scanned it so I could get some new ones silkscreened, but haven't done it yet. Under the aluminum are a couple of scews that hold the parts in place. I also redid the art so I could turn the speakers upside down, to get the mid and tweeter off the floor a little it more and still have the logo and type rightside up. another project I haven't gotten around to getting done. Are you going to replace the crossovers? Bruce 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean5340 Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 It's a very thin piece of aluminum, and will bend easily. Mine are coming unglued, just from age. I removed one and scanned it so I could get some new ones silkscreened, but haven't done it yet. Under the aluminum are a couple of scews that hold the parts in place. I also redid the art so I could turn the speakers upside down, to get the mid and tweeter off the floor a little it more and still have the logo and type rightside up. another project I haven't gotten around to getting done. Are you going to replace the crossovers? Bruce Thanks! I have them apart and there are only two caps 3uf and 8uf. I'll replace those and all the wiring. I wouldn't be opposed to a better network but I only have the mechanical skills to build not the electronic skills to design them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 The ones that have been designed to replace the stock one gets a little expensive. Mine are from '72, and I haven't done them. All I've done (last summer) was to plug the ports with some plumber's friends. I can easily take them back out. Similar to these: http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/test-tite-3-in-test-plug-mechanical-t-cone-s302/p474238 Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 "I have them apart and there are only two caps 3uf and 8uf." I would like to see the old caps, I bet they are still fine. The paper tube is filled with sand to damp microphonics and then end-filled with wax. The capacitor element is a stacked-film type with hand-soldered teflon leads. The manufacturer was Electrocube, and I would wager they are still good, and may sound better than some of the cheaper polypropylene types. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean5340 Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 I'll get a picture up in a minute. Bruce, what is the result of plugging the port tube? I like the bass response on these as is. Did you notice an improvement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean5340 Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 Here's a pic of the caps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cradeldorf Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 I agree, odds are you won't hear a difference or you will but it will be for the worst. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 (edited) Bruce, what is the result of plugging the port tube? I like the bass response on these as is. Did you notice an improvement? The t/s parameters for the driver used in the L100/4311 make it better suited to a sealed box rather than ported. The late Zilch, posted on the AudioHeritage site: What's stunning is the difference in behavior of the cone. It's loose and floppy with the port open. Once you plug the port, the effect of the enclosed air "cushion" is immediately apparent in the stiffness of the suspension. The port in my L100s is 2.75", and the 3" plug type shown required a bit of filing of the rear metal disk to get it to fit, so a little effort may be required. It's a $3.49 plumbers' test plug from the hardware store. The L88 ports are 3", so no problem there, just pop it in and tighten. You'll be listening to the difference in a matter of minutes, in either case.... Edited February 12, 2015 by Marvel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.