jwadd21 Posted August 7, 2002 Share Posted August 7, 2002 How EXACTLY would this be done. I know HornED can do it with a KLF30, but I assume the RF-3II's would involve a somewhat different approach. Like the platic motor board is only roughely 3/8's of an inch think rather than the inch of a KLF30, and with rounded edges on the sides. And the method Klipsch uses to mount the speakers could very well be different, as the speakers seem to be slightly offset into the motor board somehow and are flush with the board rather than sticking out. Also, it doesnt appear than the grill holders come out of the motor board, so I dont know what to do about that. Any ideas? - Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwadd21 Posted August 8, 2002 Author Share Posted August 8, 2002 No one knows? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwadd21 Posted August 9, 2002 Author Share Posted August 9, 2002 ............................................ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Gemini Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 It can be done with a little extra work. I just completed mine about a week ago. The motor board is made of 3/4" MDF. The motor board has a rabbited edge that allows the motor board to into the actual speaker cabinet. The driver do set flush in the RF-3 and this can be done when converted to a center channel with the use of a router. The edges are rounded and can also be done with a router. The grill seems to fit ok. I could only use 6 of the 8 pins. The rubber part of the clips that are in the motor board do come out. It took me about 2-3 hours to build the new board. Painting turned out pretty good with the use of satin black. Many coats with sanding in between. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwadd21 Posted August 11, 2002 Author Share Posted August 11, 2002 Ok, I got the single RF-3II. I took the drivers out fairly easily. Problem is, I CANT FOR THE LIFE OF ME pound the motor board off. It seems like if I try to the liquid nails would rip some mdf from the cabinet, which would probably cause a problem with air leaks. Perhaps if I put a wood pole through the port in the back and pound that with a mallet it will come off. Or are there any other methods that would work to get the motor board off? Also, how would I make...the rabbited edge to be inserted into the box...the rounded square shape of the woofer outer edge...and the slightly rounded edges of the sqaure at the outside of the tweeter. Just use the old board as a template? And tell me exactly how much liquid nails to use when putting on the new board. THANKS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwadd21 Posted August 11, 2002 Author Share Posted August 11, 2002 k, i got the damn thing off. now i just need to make the new one. also, how do i get all the residue off the cabinet left by the liquid nails? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasN00b Posted August 11, 2002 Share Posted August 11, 2002 somebody help the poor guys hes been talking to himself for like the last 3 posts i think hes going insane! ------------------ --------------------- I. Love. MUSIC! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwadd21 Posted August 12, 2002 Author Share Posted August 12, 2002 Ok. I got the cover off, and I have started making the new motorboard. I put the holes in, he speakers seem to fit well. Problem is, I had to use a drill machine to manually create the recession for the drivers because i have no access to a router, and i messed up in a few places. non of the shapes are perfect by any means, but i figure the perfect shapes would be a cosmetic difference. but i also made a small dent into the recession which would possibly cause air to leak. I think it would be ok to fill the area, along with the other imperfections with a filler of some type,. and lay foam onto the recession to assure that no air leaks. ALso, I plan to screw them on very tighly to prevent air leakage too. Should this be any problem? AND, creating the rabbited edge could be tough too. I may not be able to make it perfect. but i figure i could rely on the liquid nails to fill any imperfections i may have made. Is this logical? ALSO, perhaps i could fork over some bucks to have a professional wood worker do it for me. WHAT WOULD YOU DO? I might also have trouble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audible Nectar Posted August 12, 2002 Share Posted August 12, 2002 I would start over and make a new motorboard. You don't want any air leakage. At this point, it's easier to start over on a new one vs. the effort to fix the errors on the first one. Don't get frustrated. I think it's very realistic to need to do this again - practice does make perfect. You should get a router (or have someone do that part for you). I am not much of a woodworker, but I can tell you it will be worth the effort to do this right. Now that the weekend has passed, we will see more traffic on the forum, so we should get more advice from those experienced in this area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Gemini Posted August 13, 2002 Share Posted August 13, 2002 I would agree that if there are problems it would be easeier to start over at this point. Without the use of a router it is going to be very difficult to get the rabbited edge on the motorboard. It could be done with a table saw with a good fence. I used about half a tube of liquid nails to put the motorboard back on and I don't think that it will ever come off now. If you are not in a real hurry I might be able to build one for you. Good luck on the project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwadd21 Posted August 15, 2002 Author Share Posted August 15, 2002 Wel I got it all done and it looks excellent. It sounds MUCH better than those tiny center channels, and it actualy can put out good bass! I am glad I spent the extra $ and effort to do this, center channels should never be the smallest speaker in a system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qlele Posted August 16, 2002 Share Posted August 16, 2002 jwadd21: I am glad you like your RF3-II as your center speaker. I am thinking of doing the same thing too. In fact, I can get the RF3-II for a cheaper price than the center channel RC3-II. I am not a woodworker but I do have all the tools to cut out a new motorboard. Do you have a picture of your speaker? And how easy is it to remove those drivers off of the old motorboard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwadd21 Posted August 17, 2002 Author Share Posted August 17, 2002 I should have pictures soon, but to get the drivers off you just need a screwdriver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HornEd Posted August 17, 2002 Share Posted August 17, 2002 Congratulations jwadd21 upon joining the Klipsch Forum Adequate Center Speaker Owners!s> Now you not only know the general improvement an adequate Center channel that timbre matches your left and right Mains from all audio sources... you know the joy that this big step-up means in 5.1 (and above) DVD movies. As you may know, after designing his beloved Klipschorns to handle the left and right channels, Paul W. Klipsch, designed the rest of the Heritage line in the quest for an adequate center channel to fully enjoy the Bell Labs innovation of three-channel stereo. The fully horn-loaded Klipsch Belle upgraded from the original LaScala design was PWK's equivalent to your upgrading the motorboard of an RF-3II to match your left and right mains. In fact, I was so impressed with PWK and Bell Labs logic for three-channel stereo that that is why I built the first KLF-30 conversion. In the scores of modifications to center speakers of all types of Klipsch floorstanding speakers that people have written me about... I have yet to find one person that was unsatisfied when the new center exactly matched the mains. This exact matching creates the closest timbre match... which, in turn, makes the most accurate representation of sounds moving across the front array whether it be a passing jet or a strolling femme fatale! In my view, the two cornerstones of great HT are (1) an Adequate Center Speaker and an Adequate Subwoofer(s). May your example bring more Forum members to this happy place... and encourage our favorite speaker company to provide center speakers (or at least motherboard kits) that match the mains in drivers, porting and cubic inches. -HornED PS: I am sorry that illness of my body and my computer network precluded me from joining this thread earlier. But now you know that rebuilding an MDF motorboard for horizontal work as a center channel is essentially the same on all floorstanding Klipsch speakers. ------------------ This message has been edited by HornEd on 08-17-2002 at 10:07 AM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasN00b Posted August 18, 2002 Share Posted August 18, 2002 /me wants pics ------------------ --------------------- I. Love. MUSIC! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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