Tips on Re-Veneering

[Jim]

So I am going to watch some youtube videos as well as some of the posts on here for re-veneering my forte II.

 

Does anyone have any tips on how to go about doing this? I am using contact cement on them. I'm thinking of using the middle knots on the middle of the speaker.

 

The veneer just came in today,and is rolled up. I haven't taken it out of the box yet, but am looking to start my project tomorrow and through the weekend. As I wrote this I did take it out.

 

I do have to say so far, looking at it in the box that it's looks even better than the pictures. I may decide to do my turntable plynths with the same material.

Edited October 15, 2015 by Jim

[WMcD]

_{I had some difficulty with contact cement and veneer years ago.  When that didn't work out I applied Formica, which also was difficult.}

 

_{Having to do it again, I'd be very careful to mask off adjacent surfaces when applying the glue and trimming.  The glue is just flypaper for dust and remnants.  And when contaminated with dust it looses its stickiness.}

 

_{A while ago I posted an article about the yellow glue approach.}

 

_{https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/101150-easy-veneering-with-a-household-iron/?hl=%2Bveneer+%2B%26amp%3B+%2Biron}

 

_{I've really only used iron-on edge trim.  With the iron too hot it will toast the veneer.}  

 

_{Let me also suggest you start with the turntable base to gain some experience first.}

 

_{I've recounted something I read about grinding telescope mirrors.  If you want to grind a six-inch mirror, it is quicker to grind a three-inch mirror first to gain experience and then grind the six-inch mirror.  I suppose it is like anything.  Experience counts for a lot.  You're best off doing a small project first.}

 

_WMcD

[HPower]

Hey Jim,

 

I am by no means an expert but I ended up doing the "Iron On" method for my couple of veneer jobs.

 

http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Better-Bond-Heat-Lock-Veneer-Glue.html

http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Veneer-Glue-Roller.html

 

I purchased those 2 products and then followed, more or less this method:

 

I tried the contact cement method and I had a real tough time keeping bubbles out and it also made it very difficult to position the veneer exactly

where you wanted it on the cabinet.

 

With the iron and Heat-Lock, it was simple to get the veneer in the right spot.

This makes it super easy when trying to line the grain up when wrapping from one panel to the next.

 

I tried Iron on with just brushing regular Titebound glue but it did not work as well as the Heat-Lock.

I think this was more due to the brushing of the glue vs. the roller that I used with the Heat-Lock... use the Heat-Lock roller for applying the glue!!!

2 coats to both the veneer and cabinet.

 

Much easier to work with and clean up is a breeze, wash roller with warm water and it is ready for the next project.

Edited October 16, 2015 by HPower

[ryanm84]

Jim

I did walnut veneer on my cornwalls with contact cement. You need a veneer scraper not a j roller. I did 2 coats of of contact cement letting it dry In between coats.

I used a hand held router with flush trim bit and a razor knife to trim edges .

You might be able to search my posts and see what I did.

I recently moved from jersey otherwise I would have offered to help!

Ryan

[HPower]

In my mind, I think using contact cement like Ryan did will give you a fantastic job and perhaps making a better bond to the speaker.

I just found that method harder for me to get done correctly.

 

With the Heat-Lock method I used, you can position the veneer and move it around until you are happy with the spot.

This is a little more difficult with contact cement, once it the veneer is down... it is down.

 

When I veneered my Frugalhorns, they are a very irregular shape as you can see from the pics, so positioning the veneer required a bit of finesse.

With the iron on method I was able to get a pretty good grain alignment from side to top, to side.

Because the front baffle is sloped, the top panel to side is not really a true 90 degrees so the grain did not match perfect all the way across, but not too bad.

Keeping the rebate to a minimum on a "squarer" cabinet like your Fortes you should be able to get a real nice grain match as you wrap from panel to panel.

 

 

[ricktate]

You will need a heavy duty roller to push down on. You will also want to get a veneer trimming tool from woodworker supply. Contact cement bubbles usually can be taken out with iron and pressure. I have done both and I prefer the ready to iron on veneer. I did K-Horns with contact and LaScalas with Iron on veneer. Pictures on forum if you wish to look them up. Another tip is do the tops last so the edge is less visible. I also used razors and the tool from woodworkers supply to trim excess but be carful the veneer tends to want to run towards the grain when trimming. I used a clothes iron set on high with some Teflon paper from work between.....

   But you should practice on something else first to learn the tricks and pit falls. Rick

[ChuckAb3]

Very nice videos. Thanks for taking the time.

[HPower]

Very nice videos. Thanks for taking the time.

 

You are welcome Chuck.

 

Nice B3!

My buddy has a nice C3, he can't play but when he came across it for sale he could not pass it up.

He has a couple buddies that play in bands and it is cool to hear them play when they are over.

[AllenTacey]

I used a mixture of woodglue like titebond and yellow contact glue with a heavy duty roller working in one direction from one corner at top across and down. That is why a mixture keeps it pliable do not move allow to dry overnight then do other side. There are special knives to cut the edges flush giving it a real wood finish. I suggest Danes Oil or Tung oil for the finish use two or three very light coats do not try one coat! Clear coat? Might as well replace the wood with plastic!