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Fala7er

Bad power supply or amp? Klipsch R112SW

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First of all, good day to you! and please can you give me a hand?. Join my journy with this subwoofer (not native language, sorry for any mistake):

 

Right after the warranty ended this subwoofer started to fail, first it started making a noise when turned ON, like a grounding or false contact for a few seconds and then it was silent and working fine but at random moments started to do the same sometimes i had to turn it off because it started to do it loud (always jumping from quiet to loud at random, the noise not the audio, i found it on youtube with the word "rattling sound" but no pops or anything else) after a few weeks this got worse and one day after turning on the Sub it went Off seconds later, the only way to turn it back ON was disconnecting the power cord and plug it in again.

 

I took the subwoofer to fix on the same place i bought it, they fixed and told me it was the power supply and 8 months later (since last week) im having similar issues but not that bad, this time it does this noise when i turn it ON after being Off a few hours and just for a few seconds and never again.
 

Since they told me it was the power supply and the place is 2hs away from my home (the fix was expensive too)... i decided to open the damn thing myself and check for a bad capacitor or something since i know how to replace components and since is doing something similar from last time (before the fix) i figure the solution could be the same, well i took a look at the board and i couldn't find anything looking bad (only yellow stuff I believe is glue that came from factory and some brown stuff from the same thing, the heat turned the yellow to brown?), so i decided check on the back of the board soldering marks and replace some of the same components to test and also clean the pcb from the flux they have used.

 

Looking the components i saw only two capacitors that looked like discolored (from heat maybe?) and decided to replace this two only to test, results:

 

Both 22uf 50v were replaced with 22uf 63v

 

Then powered the Sub and voila! the quiet to loud random noise stopped but still does some low noise went i turn it ON from a few hours of having the Sub unplugged (check the video):

 

https://youtu.be/lvhrqyqhzuA

https://youtu.be/0CSbTVZGDJ8


Now the sound level remains low and last just a few seconds (10-20) and remain on the same sound level, it doesn't go from quiet to very loud at random so i assume im on the right track. After this wall of text (sorry) can you give a hand and tell me which component could be causing this or if i could fix it myself just replacing capacitors? if yes is ok to use capacitor with a little higher V but same uF? Is hard to get the exact same.

 

Already contacted klipsch support but it said 7 days... maybe someone here got the same problem and found a way to fix it?.

 

Here some pics.

 

http://imgbox.com/g/sBh24N9I1y

 

Capacitors replaced.jpg

Faulty capacitors.jpg

 

EDIT: I found a picture for what it seems a leaked capacitor but is just the yellow glue burned brown i think, this is a pic from a R115SW model.

 

Klipsch-R-112SW-Innenleben2.jpg.8440171c11fcf0182f2155fe46cb3c32.jpg

Edited by Fala7er

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Uh..... maybe electrolyte leaked out of one of the big caps?

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Have you found a schematic on line for this model?

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1 hour ago, babadono said:

Have you found a schematic on line for this model?

 

Nothing yet, i found the model 12SW but the components are not the same. For now im thinking of changing all the capacitors, but getting the same V is difficult and i don't know if getting some or almost all the caps with higher V will affect in a negative way the sound or health of the subwoofer.

 

And also, the bigger V capacitors are a bit bigger in size and will touch each other for sure.. the big one of 1000uf 80v i got one 1000uf 100v and replacing both will make them touch each other.

Edited by Fala7er
Adding info

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Higher voltage caps are fine. Lower voltage no. The outside of those can type caps are covered with an insulator so them touching should be no problem. Curious are the ones you're replacing 85 or 105 degrees C rated? If they're 105 make sure your replacements are also.

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On 5/31/2018 at 12:19 AM, babadono said:

Higher voltage caps are fine. Lower voltage no. The outside of those can type caps are covered with an insulator so them touching should be no problem. Curious are the ones you're replacing 85 or 105 degrees C rated? If they're 105 make sure your replacements are also.

Everything that has the degrees on the label says 105, except the one alone on the left side of the board looks different from the rest, other brand and shiny new, i asume is not the orignal but the fixed part and is rated 85.. im going to try getting all 105.

 

Update: replaced all capacitors and resistors, the first time i turn it ON i heard the rumbling veeery quiet for 10 seconds and then went way, is kinda a success. No idea what else to try or if this is my new normal behaviour. Been running fine for 2hs now and maybe the quality of the bass improved? must be placebo or the days of not using the unit 🤣 I think now is the waiting time for klipsch to say something. Thanks for the help.

 

Also... a pic of the fight removing the melted thing.. the other one also had a little pcb stuck with it, the yellow shit make removal REALLY difficult.

20180602_132843.jpg

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The amp couldn't be fixed anywhere. I got in contact with an importer to order a new amp from klipschs it cost me around $250 (import costs included). I can say testing both amps, the one with the problem sound a lot worse in terms of audio quality. The bass is now more accurate, better punches and louder too, both with the same settings.

 

Anyone with problems, probably forget about fixing this thing if you are on the US or Europe the replacement is the best option.

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I've ordered replaced the amp plate before, but it just broke down after 6mths of use. My 1st failed me after 9mths.

It's the same area that you had pointed out in your pics that were sort of burned out for both of my plates. To me that's the weak link in the product.

Well its a nice subwoofer to own I must say.

For now I'm contemplating if I should just order another replacement amp plate or simply moved on.

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Hi everyone.

I had a problem with r112 - it didn't power on at all. 

 

I managed to repair it to some degree so that it is now always powered on.

All I had to do is connect two pins on power supply board, marked with red on the following pic.

 

The problem is somewhere on amp board, but it's very hard to diagnose since I don't have a schematic diagram.

 

I hope this will help someone.

AUIOOA-1534692954P1060258_1.jpg

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What is the value of the resistor?  About to do this myself mine just started going out.  Runs for like 10 mins then emits no sound blue light doesnt go out tho.  Less burning on mine.  I dont think its electrolyte leakage its just the glue is burned.  The resistor must be putting out a lot of heat and its surrounded by components caps and a transistor.  Wonder if the transistor is also damaged by the resistor and it has no heatsink.  I'm thinking the resistor is the major culprit but everything else will have to be replaced with this fix.  Maybe a large wirewound resistor would work(might make the amp/sound slower tho).  Also certain caps are better with audio than others but not sure about that with this amp board looks like TL074C Ti(Motorola absorbed) opamps.  Anyone know the value of the resistor?  Not sure if the top band is a glued on resistor cap or that actually is a color value band.....  Still looks like some fairly easy soldering... like repairing old motherboards....

 

Its odd cause there are no 2 different brown bands in the resistor band color codes theres only red and brown.  Yet my resistor looks like a cap boundary/chocolate band a red band and then a lighter shade brown band which would then give 120 Ohm and I assume 5W power dissipation based on size comparisons on google images with a 5% tolerance gold band at the end, but if that is merely a cap glue seal and not an actual chocolate band then it would be a 20 Ohm resistor...... very confusing.

 

It does appear tho that wirewound resistors are a step up in power dissipation(I see some 20W) and size both allowing higher power handling and less concentrated heat dissipaiton due to its larger size thus causing its peak temp to be less and thus less able to burn surrounding components.  May slow down the sound tho, and I need to find somewhere to glue and secure it.

 

Also I assume that is also you on the iFixit Page(https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/489741/Subwoofer+bad+power+suppply+or+amp) as your posts and situation are so similar(along with exact same glue burn residue patterns) I noticed a difference between my amp board and yours(attachment below) It seems your board has some metal lead hack jumper soldered onto your board to bypass something or some cheap fix by the manufacturer(did you add this? what does it accomplish?).  Stood out when comparing your board and mine seems to go bond from one smt resistor to some r75 pad or thru hole for some purpose or another.

 

Also notice this burning of the glue on the capacitors north of the transistor this indicates it is getting hot as well this is more evident on mine as there is a string of glue from the resistor to the transistor that is burned on both ends but not in the middle.  Likely the transistor also needs to be replaced as its also overheating and likely a heatsink installed for future protection.

 

Notice how Burson always puts a heatsink its not like the manfacturer designed that metal plate on the component and screw hole for nothing..... https://6moons.com/audioreviews/burson3/burson_2.html

 

Also just to note this small cap north of the 2 large caps has no thru hole to solder its leads so instead they created 2 large solder balls on pads and then sunk the capacitor leads into these large solder balls and then covered the whole thing with the yellow glue.  This is not proper electronic design or practice.... You would think with the number of these things they have made and sold over the years they would have had a board revision to fix this by now..........

 

HackJumperPointer.jpg

Edited by iCeOL8TR

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I heard the R112SW has a faulty amp and it blows up after a few months. I am currently getting it for $399 should I invest in it or go for the R-120SW?

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Posted (edited)

I'm sending my R-112SW back tomorrow. I purchased it 2 weeks ago via WOOT.  It's already making morse code type sounds from the woofer.  You have to focus on the sound but it's definitely there, so I ordered an SVS SB-4000 with a 5 year bumper to bumper warranty.  I'm glad that I'll have a sub for at least 5 years moving forward.  Klipsch aimed at a lower priced / higher sales volume product and no one can blame them for that choice.  We all make decisions.  btw- I only augment my Lascalas with Jazz and some 80's music, I didn't send any EDM to it during it's short visit here at the house.

Edited by CAMike

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Thats a bummer. I have been looking into the SVS PB 1000, considering my room is 15x15 will it be sufficient to give me a thump for action  movies. I like feeling movies as if I am in the middle of the action.

 

Looking forward to a response 

13 hours ago, CAMike said:

I'm sending my R-112SW back tomorrow. I purchased it 2 weeks ago via WOOT.  It's already making morse code type sounds from the woofer.  You have to focus on the sound but it's definitely there, so I ordered an SVS SB-4000 with a 5 year bumper to bumper warranty.  I'm glad that I'll have a sub for at least 5 years moving forward.  Klipsch aimed at a lower priced / higher sales volume product and no one can blame them for that choice.  We all make decisions.  btw- I only augment my Lascalas with Jazz and some 80's music, I didn't send any EDM to it during it's short visit here at the house.

 

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6 minutes ago, Sammy81 said:

Thats a bummer. I have been looking into the SVS PB 1000, considering my room is 15x15 will it be sufficient to give me a thump for action  movies. I like feeling movies as if I am in the middle of the action.

 

Looking forward to a response 

 

 

I think due to my past experience with self powered subs, this time I chose to go overboard in regards to power/capacity.  My main room in 17x17 but it opens to 3 other rooms with wide openings in the walls.  Since I have Lascalas or more like "LaChupascalas", the LF seems to fall off early, like about 100hz early, so I chose a sub that will likely operate at 40% throttle at most.  The SB-4000 is conservatively rated at 1200 watts RMS with peaks about 4,000 watts.  The good news is that if my bad luck continues,  SVS subs comes with the 5 year bumper to bumper so my financial exposure for the next 5 years is +-$0.75 a day for the beautiful LF emissions in a worst case scenario.  I can live with that cost.

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Is it possible to get a electrical scematic  of the sw115 amplifier. i have one that did burn out some of the parts and i can fix it if i had the scematics.

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On 6/22/2019 at 4:13 AM, georghenningsson said:

Is it possible to get a electrical scematic  of the sw115 amplifier. i have one that did burn out some of the parts and i can fix it if i had the scematics.

Could you tell me where can i get the electric schematics?

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I'm having a similar problem and after a little research I ran across this post on the AVS Forum that identifies they same resistor, which has been upgraded by Klipsch from a 680 ohm 1 watt resistor to a 680ohm, 10 watt resistor. 

 

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-subwoofers-bass-transducers/3060542-fault-identified-klipsh-sw-112-plate-amp-failures.html

 

So I un-soldered the old resistor, which had had its outer layer burnt away and read 804 ohm, and replaced it with a 750ohm 5 watt ceramic I happened to have on hand and it works. No more noise.  This will do temporarily until I get the more robust and correct value resistor back in place, although at 10% + or -, it is within operating parameters.

 

Now I suspect this will not solve all of the problems associated with the amp for this sub, but it's definitely the first step you should take.

The resistor is brown colored and is located in the middle of the board to the left of prongs for the wires that go to the speaker.

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Is everyone replacing the big 1000uF cap next to the problem area? 

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I’ve had two for a year and a half. First one went in six months, now the second one is starting to go. Unbelievable that Klipsch won’t stand up and take care of these issue. Won’t warranty the second one because I purchased “Open Box”. These subs are junk. 

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