Jimbo357 Posted October 24, 2002 Share Posted October 24, 2002 How would I split the signal fom my reciver if I wanted to bi-amp my speakers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mighty Favog Posted October 24, 2002 Share Posted October 24, 2002 If your receiver only has one set of pre-outs on it you may have to use Y-adapters from the single set. These can be found most anywhere but some of the better ones can be at places that carry upscale car stereo gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo357 Posted October 24, 2002 Author Share Posted October 24, 2002 Thanks Tom, it sounds simple... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mighty Favog Posted October 24, 2002 Share Posted October 24, 2002 Oh, I almost forgot. Did I mention the external active crossover unit?? Sorry bout' that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo357 Posted October 24, 2002 Author Share Posted October 24, 2002 Yea, you forgot to mention that. What is it, and why is it necessary? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBrennan Posted October 24, 2002 Share Posted October 24, 2002 Bi-amping is the practice of filtering the signal between the pre-amp and amplifiers so that the amplifiers are fed only the signals to be fed to the drivers. The amp for the treble driver is fed only the high frequencies and the amp for the woofer is fed only the low frequencies. Passive crossovers at the speaker level are not used. This done in 2 ways; most often by a device called an active crossover that is between the preamp and amps and splits the signal. Say you're crossong at 500hz. The preamp feeds the fullrange signal to the crossover, the crossover feeds 500hz on down to the woofer amp which is connected directly to the woofer. Signal above 500hz are fed to the treble amp which is then connected directly to the treble driver. The other way is to use passive line-level filters between the pre-amp and the amplifiers, this does the same job as an active crossover. In both cases the amplifiers are fed only the signal to be fed to the individual drivers. Adding to the confusion is the practice of technically ignorant audiophiles of feeding signals to 2 amplifiers and then feeding these amps to the high and low legs of the speaker's passive crossover. This practice is NOT bi-amping as the term as been understood by audio professionals since the 1930s and is of dubious value, some call this practice "fool's bi-amping". In any case unless your receiver has pre-amp out jacks you can't bi-amp. Bi-amping is best left to DIY speaker builders and pro-sound guys. Many modern speakers have EQ built into their passive crossovers and eliminating the speaker's passive crossover, as one must do when bi-amping, may change the speaker's intended voicing. www.chicagohornspeakerclub.org Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mighty Favog Posted October 24, 2002 Share Posted October 24, 2002 O.k. Now this is the part I don't have prsonal hands on experience with but I'll try. The first I would ask is if your gonna use the same make and model of amp for HF and LF. If so you may even see if you can run them each in mono and just use them as mono-blocks (one amp for each channel, right and left). If not then bi-amp may be more preferable. Assuming that you have a pair of binding posts for the HF and LF independently on each cabinet (four posts on one speaker) it may run like this. The pre-outs coming out of your receiver (integrated, preamp, etc.) would first go into an active crossover, out of the crossover and to each amp (HF and LF respectively). The crossover will filter out the frequencies that are not needed to go to each driver (you won't need LF frequencies going to the mids and tweeters). You can set these adjustments where you want or most people just put them at the original crossover points the manufacturer sets on the passive crossovers built in the speaker's cabinet. Those points can usually be found in the speaker's user manual. Then the amps just run as normal to the correct binding post (one amp to the speaker's mids and tweets and the other amp to the woofer's posts left and right). That's about the best I can describe it. There are many makes of active crossovers. If you have a shop near you (or go to Marsmusic.com )that sells band equipment they'll probably have some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbflash Posted October 24, 2002 Share Posted October 24, 2002 try www.davidmannaudio.com Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted October 25, 2002 Share Posted October 25, 2002 Download the owner's manual and read it. Has some good examples from Nelson Pass, including horn types. http://www.passlabs.com/prodlit/xvr1lit.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikjohn Posted October 25, 2002 Share Posted October 25, 2002 You could also pick up an electronic crossover for a car stero and get a 12 volt transformer to use in the house. This would obviously be for the budget minded as I think you can pick up on for probably $60 after everything. Never tried it but maybe I will. It would work. Just a thought, maybe justin could use this to bi amp his jiffy-sub into his system. EJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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