eduardofsjr Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 7 hours ago, Roamin said: I wouldn't worry about this capacitor for now. How does the one just above, C85 , react? Does it also beep? Those cap are right in the vicinity of the 2 jumpers that are in place of coils and it's very possible that they are in parallel with those jumpers (which are labelled as coils on the board) and could have been to suppress interference around those coils.. The very first thing to focus on in any reparation is always the voltage. A multimeter that can read DC voltage up to around 100v is all you really need in order to measure voltage in this amplifier and if you are stable enough when handling the probes, there shouldn't be any risks at all. One of the first thing I was thought in school when I learned electronics was that when you are about to measure something with your probes , you always place at least 1 finger from each hands or part of the hand on a stable surface and never have your hands just floating around. It stabilizes your hands and the probes and you have less chances of slipping and shorting something with the probes. The voltages on this board are quite easy to measure if your probes are thin enough to simply insert them in the pins on the side where the wires come into the sockets. The cable that has 2 wires is labeled with 5v and GND. Keeping your black probe on the GND pin you can measure all the voltages with the red probe. You can measure the 5v on that connector , the +15/-15 on the connector with 4 wires, and the -42/+42(or 62 volts depending on the board) from the thicker wired 3 pin connector. You can also measure the voltage on the big resistor I mentioned before and see if it fluctuates from -0.4 to -4 volts. If it fluctuates with every pop , the irs2092 is most likely acting up.. You might need help changing that part though because it is not easy to do since it has small pins and it is in an awkward location.. But if you pinpoint the problem you can probably have someone change that chip (and maybe some capacitors too) for you. @Roamin, I don’t have +- 15V and +- 62V. I measured zero volt at the input of -15V regulator. 5V is fine. Can you share any idea where to check more voltages and find a defective component? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roamin Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 (edited) 15 hours ago, eduardofsjr said: @Roamin, I don’t have +- 15V and +- 62V. I measured zero volt at the input of -15V regulator. 5V is fine. Can you share any idea where to check more voltages and find a defective component? Thanks! If you don't have those voltages , I suggest you unplug both these connectors on the amplifier side, and plug the power to your sub. Are the voltages there in the disconnected connectors ? On the power supply itself? If those voltages aren't present then the problem definitely starts in the PSU (power supply unit). Disconnecting the cables from the amp would ensure that it isn't the amplifier itself pulling down the voltages, but I kinda doubt it anyways. I did not need to check anything on my power supply and don't have any pictures of it , but if you take good pictures of yours I can always guide you through different tests to do on it. The PSU didn't really seem to be that complicated so finding the fault should be fairly easy. One thing I liked about the design of the amp is that it uses easy to find components and doesn't rely on parts you can only find in Asia and I'm pretty sure it's the same for the PSU. Edit : Re-reading your past posts , I grasp that you already did disconnect the amplifier to check the voltages. Get some close up , top down pictures of the PSU , even better would be pictures of the solder side as well and I'll try to help you find the fault. I have but 1 picture of my power supplies but I can't see anything at all on them from this distance, but with the size of the transformers it's safe to say it's kinda separated in 2 sides , the 5v and the higher voltages on the other side.. Edited January 25 by Roamin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eduardofsjr Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 (edited) @Roamin, thank you! Here are some pictures of the PSU. Edit: Left side of that white line, where we can see D1, D2, D3 and D4: zero volt Right side: Big capacitors: 165 Vdc Some points: 330 Vdc Big soldering points next to white line, upper side: zero Edited January 26 by eduardofsjr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eduardofsjr Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 (edited) @Roamin Updates: U1 (SSC9522S) controls power mosfet (Q1 on top side) Vcc when PSON=5V: 8.6V Vcc comes from A6069H Vcc (9.3 V), but not directly. What are the expected Vcc voltages for both ICs? Edited January 29 by eduardofsjr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerHouy Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 (edited) On 1/24/2024 at 4:24 AM, Roamin said: I wouldn't worry about this capacitor for now. How does the one just above, C85 , react? Does it also beep? Those cap are right in the vicinity of the 2 jumpers that are in place of coils and it's very possible that they are in parallel with those jumpers (which are labelled as coils on the board) and could have been to suppress interference around those coils.. The very first thing to focus on in any reparation is always the voltage. A multimeter that can read DC voltage up to around 100v is all you really need in order to measure voltage in this amplifier and if you are stable enough when handling the probes, there shouldn't be any risks at all. One of the first thing I was thought in school when I learned electronics was that when you are about to measure something with your probes , you always place at least 1 finger from each hands or part of the hand on a stable surface and never have your hands just floating around. It stabilizes your hands and the probes and you have less chances of slipping and shorting something with the probes. The voltages on this board are quite easy to measure if your probes are thin enough to simply insert them in the pins on the side where the wires come into the sockets. The cable that has 2 wires is labeled with 5v and GND. Keeping your black probe on the GND pin you can measure all the voltages with the red probe. You can measure the 5v on that connector , the +15/-15 on the connector with 4 wires, and the -42/+42(or 62 volts depending on the board) from the thicker wired 3 pin connector. You can also measure the voltage on the big resistor I mentioned before and see if it fluctuates from -0.4 to -4 volts. If it fluctuates with every pop , the irs2092 is most likely acting up.. You might need help changing that part though because it is not easy to do since it has small pins and it is in an awkward location.. But if you pinpoint the problem you can probably have someone change that chip (and maybe some capacitors too) for you. Wow thank you very much, that took time to answer in such a manner. I really appreciate your help and informations. You guys are great. C83 just does beep and has 0 resistance when testing, C84 and C85 both have 2.3k Ohm and don't beep. If the guides out there are right, the caps should be fine. Tested them outside the board with the resistance mode, the guide said, if it loads up in resistance mode and goes to infinity they should be fine. I hope that's right. The voltages are fine on the amp board. I have the 5v, -15/15 and the 60 volts. The smartphone with the thermal camera from my gf shows it's hot around the area of On/Of/Auto and Gain knobs, but it's very broad. It doesn't show specific values nor the exact area. I wasn't able to get new caps yet. Looks like I need to buy stuff for 50€ on DigiKey to get all the stuff. Because otherwise I pay about 18€ for shipping only :d Edit: Okay, I guess desoldering the 16v 22uf or (220uf)? wasn't a good idea because I destroyed the port and a little bit of the line on the upper side xD Will try to find a repair cafe near, before I do even more damage. Soldering/Desoldering lead free is hard. I remember it was much easier with lead =/ Theoretically if I make the red outline blank that the copper shows up again, I could put solder on it and connect it to the other side right? Thank you @Roamin and all of you. Edited January 28 by DerHouy images added Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerHouy Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 I just fixed the broken pads "as good as I can as an beginner" and the sub works again. I replaced one of the big main caps (because it was broke), and the3 capacitors shown in the picture. Because I switched one capacitor before the 16v 330uf, I guess it was the 16v 330uf one, who was broke. One more question, the dark lines are the real connections, right? Because I scraped it off a little bit on the broken one to get a connection to the copper underneath. Thanks so far guys, at least it works again. Hopefully I did everything right and the broken pad isn't connected wrong now xD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eduardofsjr Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 @DerHouy or anyone, can you measure the voltage at this pin (Vcc, pin 5)? You can use heatsink as ground or the pin 3 of this IC. I got 9.3 V and I suspect it should be higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerHouy Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 @eduardofsjr Had to give the sub back, wasn't mine. I could test it in a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerHouy Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 @eduardofsjr Had to give the sub back, wasn't mine. I could test it in a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eduardofsjr Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 (edited) On 1/30/2024 at 2:47 PM, DerHouy said: @eduardofsjr Had to give the sub back, wasn't mine. I could test it in a week. @DerHouy, thanks! Please share with us when you can. I am still investigating this part of PSU. I am getting 5V (V_out), but Vcc of A6069H is only 9.3V (maybe Vcc bias according to datasheet). This Vcc feeds the main IC of PSU (15V and 62V) when you move the power switch to ON. But undervoltage of this main IC (SSC9522S) is 9.8 V. Thus, no power output. Edit: Resistance at auxiliary winding D is huge (megaohms) and unstable. Did I find the problem? Edit 2: Yes, that was the problem. I removed the transformer and soldered a new wire to the transformer socket. Then the resistance returned to 1.5 ohm and Vcc is around 17 volts. Subwoofer is working properly and now I’m using the 12V trigger from Denon AVR to control the main AC power of the subwoofer (AC outlet). Edited March 19 by eduardofsjr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisztoszteron Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 On 2/2/2024 at 1:48 PM, eduardofsjr said: @DerHouy, thanks! Please share with us when you can. I am still investigating this part of PSU. I am getting 5V (V_out), but Vcc of A6069H is only 9.3V (maybe Vcc bias according to datasheet). This Vcc feeds the main IC of PSU (15V and 62V) when you move the power switch to ON. But undervoltage of this main IC (SSC9522S) is 9.8 V. Thus, no power output. Edit: Resistance at auxiliary winding D is huge (megaohms) and unstable. Did I find the problem? Hi there! I'm encountering a similar issue. I'm also facing a lack of both +15V and -62V. The 2200uF/63V capacitors have been blowing up one after another. Despite attempting replacements, one of them blew up again. Fortunately, I managed to disconnect the power cord in time to prevent further damage. I also replaced the rectifier connected to these capacitors, but the problem persists. The capacitors began heating up rapidly, prompting me to disconnect them immediately. Regarding the "winding D" you mentioned, is it the separate coil located next to the transformer? I conducted measurements on it, and it appears to be functioning correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eduardofsjr Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 @Krisztoszteron Yes, the little transformer, for 5V, close to A6069H IC. There is no continuity in this auxiliary coil. Primary coil: 5 ohms Secondary coil: 0.2 ohms I suppose this is the fault… No high Vcc, no power to main IC (controller of higher voltages) The transformer has a code: 042-010317-001ZR I could not find any specification to replace it. I’ll try to desolder and check the transformer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisztoszteron Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 11 hours ago, eduardofsjr said: @Krisztoszteron Yes, the little transformer, for 5V, close to A6069H IC. There is no continuity in this auxiliary coil. Primary coil: 5 ohms Secondary coil: 0.2 ohms I suppose this is the fault… No high Vcc, no power to main IC (controller of higher voltages) The transformer has a code: 042-010317-001ZR I could not find any specification to replace it. I’ll try to desolder and check the transformer. The mentioned small transformer seems good to me. I measure 5 and 0.2 ohms on it. So, the problem is likely somewhere else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eduardofsjr Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 (edited) @Krisztoszteron, did you get 0.2 ohms on those marked pins (picture that I posted) too? Transformer pins connected to ground and R56 resistor. I appreciate if you can measure it for me! About the problem of your PSU, I suggest checking diodes, resistors, capacitors. Try to check and understand the “path” of current from transformers to output. Edited February 7 by eduardofsjr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbee Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 Well, it look like I need to join this thread. My Klipsch R-112SW subwoofer suddenly just started making a popping noise every second or two. From reading this thread and other websites, it seems like the unit is hosed and needs repair. I'm not comfortable repairing electronics and am in Austin, Texas. Anyone have any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisztoszteron Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 6 hours ago, eduardofsjr said: @Krisztoszteron, did you get 0.2 ohms on those marked pins (picture that I posted) too? Transformer pins connected to ground and R56 resistor. I appreciate if you can measure it for me! About the problem of your PSU, I suggest checking diodes, resistors, capacitors. Try to check and understand the “path” of current from transformers to output. I'll do that for you tomorrow. I hope we can get closer to the solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisztoszteron Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 Here are my measurements: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eduardofsjr Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 @Krisztoszteron, thanks for the information! Now I’m sure this transformer needs repair on my board. About your case: There are few components on the left side of the board. Check diodes, resistors. What are DC voltages before transformer (right side)? I measured 330 V (be careful). AC input: 120V You can disconnect audio board from PSU (5V, 15V+PSON, 62V). You should get only 5V on the left side, but the other side should work OK, except main transformer, because SSC9522S is off (no power on signal) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisztoszteron Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 7 hours ago, eduardofsjr said: @Krisztoszteron, thanks for the information! Now I’m sure this transformer needs repair on my board. About your case: There are few components on the left side of the board. Check diodes, resistors. What are DC voltages before transformer (right side)? I measured 330 V (be careful). AC input: 120V You can disconnect audio board from PSU (5V, 15V+PSON, 62V). You should get only 5V on the left side, but the other side should work OK, except main transformer, because SSC9522S is off (no power on signal) The diodes and resistors appear to be functioning properly. The diodes are not shorted and allow current to flow in only one direction. So i'm assuming, they are not faulty. The DC voltage on the high voltage side of the PCB is around 310V. I could measure the voltage at the output by soldering in good capacitors, and plugging the PSU in only for a second. It was around 80V, so the high voltage was the reason why the capacitors blew up (they were rated only for 63V). So I just need to find, what's the reason of that. Maybe the amp is damaged too because of the higher voltage... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisztoszteron Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 What value should I get at R20? (the component next to the three diodes). The multimeter cannot read any resistance value and the top of the component is black, so I cannot read any information from that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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