eduardofsjr Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 @Krisztoszteron I just measured 1.000 k ohm. It is possible to read “102” (1000 ohms) at R20 in my last picture too, if you need a picture reference of another board. At output, there are 4 capacitors (3300 uF 80V) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisztoszteron Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 I could only find a through-hole technology (THT) resistor, so I tested it using that. However, the voltage remains high at the output, and the resistor that I replaced is getting warm. Therefore, I'm assuming that something else is also faulty, which likely caused the original 1k resistor to burn out. My power supply is not identical to yours. Upon examining the images, I noticed that there are additional components on your board that are not present on mine, and vice versa. My stock four capacitors are rated for 63V and has a capacitance of 2200uF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisztoszteron Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 Could you measure the optocoupler pins for me? I'm uncertain if there might be an issue, but my measurements seem to be incorrect. I'm obtaining the same value on the internal diode of the optocoupler when measured in reverse polarity as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eduardofsjr Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 2 hours ago, Krisztoszteron said: Could you measure the optocoupler pins for me? I'm uncertain if there might be an issue, but my measurements seem to be incorrect. I'm obtaining the same value on the internal diode of the optocoupler when measured in reverse polarity as well. U4: approximately 1 volt drop, both directions. U6: approximately 1 volt drop, just one direction U51: approximately 0.6 volt drop, both directions Parallel components affect measurements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossi32s Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 Does anyone need these? $40 each/$80 for both, delivered anywhere in the US. I can assure you the SMPS boards are bad on both and the amp boards likely only need the caps around the resistor replaced(we would recap the whole thing if we were repairing them). The amp boards have not been worked on; The SMPS boards were likely thrown on the Huntron to determine the failure, and with all the white glue on the power supplies, we don't replace components covered in the glue. We are getting so many of these in that we have no desire to fix these excess units and sell them working. These come in from customers only wanting one fixed but send 2 for a discount on their repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Håvardc Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 On 1/23/2024 at 5:04 AM, Rossi32s said: Change the one circled in red.. 22uf 50v Thak you! That worked like a charm👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seb FR 33170 Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 Le 23/01/2024 à 05:04, Rossi32s a déclaré : Changez celui encerclé en rouge.. 22uf 50v Hi, I had this "click" problem every 3 seconds. I replaced this capacitor and my problem is resolved. Well done and thank you Rossi32s. A little Frenchy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwank Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 I just pulled my amp off because my LED wasn't turning on with the subwoofer. That was just a loose connection, but I noticed some over heated caps and google sent me to this thread. I guess mine is on its way out anyday now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmmboost Posted March 29 Share Posted March 29 (edited) Hey guys, new on here but I've found this thread INCREDIBLY helpful. Thank you so much for all of the detailed information on here. I'm working on an amp that is also made by Indigo, but it's a little different from the usual units around here. I'm really hoping to get some help with some component ID's. The subwoofer is an Energy ESW-C10. Purchased used and was stated to be working, but when I got it home it ended up being dead, so I replace the fuse. Blew that one too. Took the amp out and immediately saw the corrosion from the glue, a bulging top on one of the 220uF 200V caps, and thermistor with a chunk blown out of it. Here's the issue, I need help identifying the two resistors that were baked under the crispy glue by the PDC board. I tried to clean off as much glue as possible to be able to read the color codes, but the paint was damaged as well. I'm hoping someone has some experience with this amplifier or can help me identify the resistors. Edited March 29 by mmmboost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossi32s Posted March 29 Share Posted March 29 1 hour ago, mmmboost said: Hey guys, new on here but I've found this thread INCREDIBLY helpful. Thank you so much for all of the detailed information on here. I'm working on an amp that is also made by Indigo, but it's a little different from the usual units around here. I'm really hoping to get some help with some component ID's. The subwoofer is an Energy ESW-C10. Purchased used and was stated to be working, but when I got it home it ended up being dead, so I replace the fuse. Blew that one too. Took the amp out and immediately saw the corrosion from the glue, a bulging top on one of the 220uF 200V caps, and thermistor with a chunk blown out of it. Here's the issue, I need help identifying the two resistors that were baked under the crispy glue by the PDC board. I tried to clean off as much glue as possible to be able to read the color codes, but the paint was damaged as well. I'm hoping someone has some experience with this amplifier or can help me identify the resistors. Your resistors are good. If you are blowing fuses, check the switching circuit for a short.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmmboost Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 Thanks very much. Just to be sure, I ordered a new 47 kOhm and a 150+160 kOhm resistor. All my parts should be here tomorrow, so I'm hoping I can get this thing back up and running tomorrow. I don't have a scope or a current-limited AC power supply (only DC).... so what's the best approach for testing to see if this is going to work again. The last thing I want is to cook the new MOSFETS or Caps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossi32s Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 Just now, mmmboost said: Thanks very much. Just to be sure, I ordered a new 47 kOhm and a 150+160 kOhm resistor. All my parts should be here tomorrow, so I'm hoping I can get this thing back up and running tomorrow. I don't have a scope or a current-limited AC power supply (only DC).... so what's the best approach for testing to see if this is going to work again. The last thing I want is to cook the new MOSFETS or Caps. Wire the hot or netural of main power in, in series with a 100w incandescent bulb. If there is a short, the bulb will light instead of frying your power board. LED bulb will not work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmmboost Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 Frig.....that's genius. Such a simple solution. Now to go digging in the basement to try and find an incandescent bulb. Haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmmboost Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 Well I got everything all back together and fired up with a 60W bulb (only 100 I had was a halogen). The bulb came on dimly for an instant while the caps were charging and then went out again, so things are good there. However, I wasn't able to replace the DIAC on the PDC board because Amazon delayed the shipment (and I'm guessing it's going to get cancelled). I'm not really getting a voltage reading at the speaker outputs and the PDC board is getting quite warm, so I'm thinking I'm going to have to replace the DIAC......if I can ever find one in Canada. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossi32s Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 5 minutes ago, mmmboost said: Well I got everything all back together and fired up with a 60W bulb (only 100 I had was a halogen). The bulb came on dimly for an instant while the caps were charging and then went out again, so things are good there. However, I wasn't able to replace the DIAC on the PDC board because Amazon delayed the shipment (and I'm guessing it's going to get cancelled). I'm not really getting a voltage reading at the speaker outputs and the PDC board is getting quite warm, so I'm thinking I'm going to have to replace the DIAC......if I can ever find one in Canada. You won't get a voltage at the speaker outputs without a signal in.. you need to measure your drive voltages coming from the power board. I'm going to guess that amp is about 100w.. so you're looking for + & - voltages coming off the power board around +25-30v & -25-30v. Once you have that, you can focus on the signal flow. The ribbon cable should have some writing on each wire too, they don't look thick enough to carry the 4-5A at 25v needed for the amp board. Where does J9&J10 go? I'd also recap the entire secondary of the PS board. I've never worked on that exact model but you should have the 25v + and - with respect to power ground and likely a 5v for the audio signal circuit and possibly 3v. Ribbon cable likely also has a standby output to tell the power board to go into standby.. if it's stuck in standby, should still get your 25v long enough to charge the 2 caps in the secondary to get a close measurement to verify switching is working(until they drain, about 10 seconds or so). Also verify your voltage on the primary caps.. if you are on a 120v system they will be around 160v DC.. if you are on 220.. around 310v DC. Fair warning, on a 220v system.. those caps will kick you pretty good.. don't slip with the probe either.. use the dim bulb until you feel it's sorted out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Keita 81 Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 Hello. I am looking for a service manual for the Klipsch SW 112 subwoofer. Best Regards SK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmmboost Posted April 4 Share Posted April 4 19 hours ago, Rossi32s said: You won't get a voltage at the speaker outputs without a signal in.. you need to measure your drive voltages coming from the power board. I'm going to guess that amp is about 100w.. so you're looking for + & - voltages coming off the power board around +25-30v & -25-30v. Once you have that, you can focus on the signal flow. The ribbon cable should have some writing on each wire too, they don't look thick enough to carry the 4-5A at 25v needed for the amp board. Where does J9&J10 go? I'd also recap the entire secondary of the PS board. I've never worked on that exact model but you should have the 25v + and - with respect to power ground and likely a 5v for the audio signal circuit and possibly 3v. Ribbon cable likely also has a standby output to tell the power board to go into standby.. if it's stuck in standby, should still get your 25v long enough to charge the 2 caps in the secondary to get a close measurement to verify switching is working(until they drain, about 10 seconds or so). Also verify your voltage on the primary caps.. if you are on a 120v system they will be around 160v DC.. if you are on 220.. around 310v DC. Fair warning, on a 220v system.. those caps will kick you pretty good.. don't slip with the probe either.. use the dim bulb until you feel it's sorted out. You know, I knew I shouldn't be seeing anything with no signal, but it was late and I guess I wasn't thinking straight. My board is slightly different than the Klipsch amps I see in this forum, but they share a lot of commonalities. I guess it's not obvious where I should be trying to see where I've got voltage A or voltage B, etc. To answer a few of your wonderings, the amp is rated for 150W RMS, 300W Peak. The Ribbon cable is 26 AWG so it's probably not going to be hauling a lot of current. J9 and J10 are the driver outputs. I have 166V on both of the 220uF caps. I don't seem to be getting much action from anything beyond the PDC though. I've attached a new photo of all of the components that I have replaced. Should I be changing the two caps on the daughter board with the switches and the pots? There is a 22uF and a 100uF. They both measure out to be well within tolerance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossi32s Posted April 4 Share Posted April 4 2 hours ago, Steve Keita 81 said: Hello. I am looking for a service manual for the Klipsch SW 112 subwoofer. Best Regards SK Doesn't exist.. if you scroll through this thread, some people have posted some similar ones. Best off posting questions and symptoms and I or someone else will guide you. I've repaired hundreds of these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossi32s Posted April 4 Share Posted April 4 25 minutes ago, mmmboost said: You know, I knew I shouldn't be seeing anything with no signal, but it was late and I guess I wasn't thinking straight. My board is slightly different than the Klipsch amps I see in this forum, but they share a lot of commonalities. I guess it's not obvious where I should be trying to see where I've got voltage A or voltage B, etc. To answer a few of your wonderings, the amp is rated for 150W RMS, 300W Peak. The Ribbon cable is 26 AWG so it's probably not going to be hauling a lot of current. J9 and J10 are the driver outputs. I have 166V on both of the 220uF caps. I don't seem to be getting much action from anything beyond the PDC though. I've attached a new photo of all of the components that I have replaced. Should I be changing the two caps on the daughter board with the switches and the pots? There is a 22uF and a 100uF. They both measure out to be well within tolerance. What is your DC voltage across the 2 points circled in red? Without seeing the bottom of the board I am going to assume that is the DC side of the rectified AC coming off of the switching transformer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmmboost Posted April 4 Share Posted April 4 (edited) 39 minutes ago, Rossi32s said: What is your DC voltage across the 2 points circled in red? Without seeing the bottom of the board I am going to assume that is the DC side of the rectified AC coming off of the switching transformer. I've got..... 0V (sad trombone). It seems like things are getting stopped up at the PDC board. Here's a shot of the bottom of the board. AC input on the LHS Edited April 4 by mmmboost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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