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La Scala


Zannekin

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Other than Klipsch , the most reliable place to get horns ans drivers is ebay.com. There are several sets of horns and drivers for sale there now. The K-400/K-401 horn will be the most difficult to get. An altec 511B has a larger mouth but makes a good substitute. Some say better. The driver sets you want will be: K-33-E/K-55-V or K-55-M/K-77 or K-77-M. I doubt you will want the latest K-77-F, unless you can match it to the latest K-55-X squawker and correct crossover.

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Maybe one day I can learn French. It would help reading about Le Tour.

It sounds like you may want to build a set of La Scala cabinets yourself. Beware of the German plans, they have some wrong dimensions.

We all have our prefered combinations. Mine is K-33-E, K-55-V (AlNiCo) on K-400, and K-77-M used with a Type AA crossover. This was the typical configuration from about 1965 or so to 1981 (at least for the K-55-V). The K-77-M was standard from sometime in the late 70s to 2000.

Q-man prefers K-33-E, K-55-M (ferrite "Mud") and K-77-M with a Type AL-3 crossover. This was the configuration for 1982 to 2000 with a change to the K-401 around 1990(?).

The 2002 configuration is K-33-E, K-55-X (modern K-55-V) on K-401, and K-77-F (modern K-77-M). The K-55-X and K-77-F have about 1.5 dB less output than the older versions and require a different crossover. Klipsch is the only source for the newest drivers and I doubt that Klipsch will sell them since they are all needed for current production.

Look at this ebay search for the parts you want.

http://cq-search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?MfcISAPICommand=GetResult&query=klipsch*+-2.1+-4.1+-5.1&ht=1&itemtimedisp=0&st=2&SortProperty=MetaEndSort&BasicSearch=++

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Hey!

Where can we found good Plans?

If i have undrestood!!! it's difficult to found new speakers???

Frenchs dealers don't want to sell them to, but i can buy 2 La Scala for 2250$.

Is it cheap or expensive? New it's 4930$

When i see the prices on Ebay for the speakers, i think that's expensive?

Thank's for your aid, Zan

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John...check out what you wrote as YOUR tweeter choice...LOL!...and the years it was standard, again!

Zan....Comment allez-vous, mes ami? The sentence you refer to about the LaScala is my "signature line." It is a joke, but difficult to explain.

In France, $2,000 is a good price for a pair of LaScala speakers in good condition.

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Hello John,

"Beware of the German Plans" : I am just cutting the parts for my DIY-LaScalas and I had to use these plans (converted to 18mm board). From an older thread I learned that there are incorrect mounting dimensions of the mid and high horns (no problem), but are there more severe problems like perhaps wrong back chamber volume, incorrect woofer slot or horn geometry that will spoil the function of the bass horn ? Are there perhaps some important parts missing in the plans ?

Thanks for any information,

Volker

1.gif

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Volker,

On the German plans, there definitely ARE errors. For example, the depth dimension between the woofer motorboard and the rear panel is 3 inches. Also the slot for the throat on the motorboard panel is 3 inches wide. The angles for the miter cuts on the two pieces that assemble up to become one of the two wings between the motorboard and the cabinet rear panel are also in error. The ends of these pieces, where they are joined together are CORRECTLY mitered at 30 degrees, with the ends that are attached to the upper and lower panels of the bass bin being mitered at 60 degrees, and the CORRECT fitting of these parts requires that they also be longer in length than the dimensions given in the German plans. Also on the factory version, there is no angled piece added to the rear vertical inside corners of the bass bin. These are just a few of the incorrect dimensions given in the German plans. The size of the tweeter/midhorn motorboard is also incorrect, as are the dimensions for location of the openings for the horn lenses on it. There are also other dimensional errors in the German plans.

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I have a set of plans that MAY be more accurate. I found them at the following URL: www.geocities.com/loudspeakerguru/LaScala.jpg. These plans show the width of the motorboard slot and the motorboard to rear panel distance to be 3", as HBDRbuilder indicates to be correct. It also does not have the angled panels that he was talking about in the rear corners of the enclosure. It does, however, incorrectly show the miter cuts on the motor board wings to be 27 and 63 degrees, versus the correct 30 and 60 degrees. I have NOT made a set of cabinets from these prints, so use them cautiously - no telling what is wrong or right. These prints are also in German (I think).

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The wings, when assembled to the doghouse, should have their mitered joints (the points) about 3/16" above and below the bottom edge of the motorboard. The point where the other mitered edges of the wings ajoin the bass bin upper and lower panels should be about the same distance in from the left and right doghouse edge assembly(meaning from OUTER rear side edges of the side panels that are attached to the motorboard). The motor board slot is approximately 3" wide by 13" tall. There is no way that the 23degree/67 degree miters of the wing parts can accomplish BOTH of these requirements, therefore one must use the 30 degree/60 degree miters to make things work out correctly...besides, the rest of the horn flare rate is also based on these measurements!

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I speak from some experience in building bass horns.

In my experience there are two different issues.

1) The perfomance is not going to be changed if you are off by a centimeter or even more in any given dimension. Therefore it is not necessary to build exactly to a given set of plans. Naturally it would be good to recreate a known design in general dimensions. But that is all.

2) It is very important to have all the pieces cut so they go together correctly without gaps.

The 2) is much easier to do if you, yourself, make a set of full size drawings describing what you intend to build, showing every piece. The "views" should be isometric types showing the layout viewed from the (a) top, (B) front, and © side. That way you will be able to measure the angles and dimensions. Also, when you cut the wood, you can compare them to your drawing.

The best paper to use is drafting paper with a grid on it. If you have a drafting table and a T-square, you should be able to do this with ordinary paper.

Gil

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Many thanks to everybody for helpfull response!

I have cut the parts for the doghouses according to the plans Akirk mentioned, used 30/60 deg for the wings and everything went together correctly. Has anyone tried EV SM120/1823/DH1506 as midrange for LS?

Good Greetings,

Volker9.gif

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