KLF-10 center channel mod questions

[Snails_Pace]

Hi there. I'm back from my deployment...didn't have to go to the sandbox like I thought I would, though it's still a distinct possibility. Many props to WildBlu as he was the one who ended up buying our KSP-S6s while I was gone--thanks buddy, enjoy! As I may have a month or two of time on my hands before the military sends me out the door again, I have some questions for those of you who have modded your KLFs for center channel use.

First off, please don't tell me to use the search function. For some reason, the search on this BBS and I don't seem to get along well (I tried a search in the HT and Updating old speakers forums using "KLF"--and the permutations of the model numbers--"center" and HornEd as the author and got just one hit). I've even tried searching just for posts I know I wrote and have come up empty.

Now then, I have KLF-20s on the L and R mains. I have 4 C7s for rear side and back surrounds. I have a C7 as the current center channel, and a KLF-10 that I just happened across last night for a song (well, less than $200 anyway).

Here are my questions...I would appreciate any inputs from those in the know.

1) I have a plasma display so I'm not really concerned about magnetic interference, but I thought I read that bucking magnets will actually add a few db to the output. Is there a tradeoff in performance for this

[Snails_Pace]

...this is the other problem I ALWAYS have on this BBS, I can never seem to write more than a couple of paragraphs.

gain in output?

2) How would those of you who have modded your KLF-10s suggest I lay out the drivers? Have you spaced them evenly across the motorboard, or bunched the bass drivers together right next to the horn?

3) On the orientation of the horn. I was thinking about the C7 discussions I've had here in the past and how the C7s are actually better suited as surrounds if placed vertically because the driver then turns horizontal and has a wider dispersion pattern. If the horizontal orientation of the KLF-10's driver is designed to give a wider dispersion as a floor-standing speaker, would it not be better to leave the KLF-10's driver vertically oriented as a center channel to narrow the focus of the center channel information (i.e. better anchor dialog to the center of the screen)?

3) I'm not amazingly gifted in the woodworking dept and I only get one chance to do this right. Does anyone have a good set of instructions for how I should proceed so I don't end up tearing out chuncks of the rest of the cabinet as I try to free the motorboard? Maybe someone else has better luck with the search function and can recommend a thread for me to read?

4) Once the motorboard is off, I don't ever recall

[Snails_Pace]

...anyone saying anything about the glue remnants that ran around the opening. Did you simply use liquid nails or gorilla glue to reattach the motorboard when you were done, or did you first sand the glue traces off the lip of the enclosure to make a better seal?

5) Once you have this monster speaker on its side, do any of you use some kind of spike or feet to raise it off the TV or shelf? If so, I'd love to hear some suggestions as I don't relish the idea of drilling sinkholes into the side of the cabinet to make room for new feet/spikes.

Any information or advice anyone can offer would be INCREDIBLY appreciated--especially on the layout of the board itself. Maybe someone also has some first-hand experience on things I should make sure I don't do, during disassembly, reassembly, whatever...urg...like I said, this is a BIG deal for me as I have very little woodworking skills (I'm actually toying with the idea of simply buying the materials and paying someone to build me the motorboard).

Thanks so much for your time and patience wading through three separate posts just for one topic (oh yeah, if anyone can help me figure out why THAT happens, it would be a big help too). Have a great weekend!

[bhimeli@aol.com]

snails pace, hi. well i am waiting on a 20 to mod. it's my first time maybe i can help but bear in mind i am trying yhis myselfe for the first time. 1, i have been told by Trey Cannon that there is a slight increase in driver output but no degeration in sound quality. i have a tube tv so i am going to have to do the bucking magnet deal. dont know about plasma. if you type in HornEd on search and go down to his pic.67jpg you can see the layout of the woofers, horns etc. he told me to just take out your horns and woofers mark your wires accordingly then take a "deadhead" rubber mallet and tap on the motor board until it comes out may come out easy may take some time. then just transfer your openings onto your new piece of mfd board that you can get at lowes or home depot for $20.00 or so. then you need a router to put the step in the openings fpr your speks to sit in. flat black paint a couple 2or3 coats sanding in between coats then with liquid nail put the motorboard back in screw in your speks. and thats it. hope that helps a little bit. sounds pretty easy on paper.

[Mlstrass]

Here's a pic of the KLF-10 that I converted, so you can see the driver layout.

I would NOT spend the money on bucking magnets for a "percieved" improvement in sound only. If you don't need the magnetic shielding then save the $$$.

Once you knock out the original motorboard, use a putty knife to scrape off the old glue. I used 3/4" MDF and used a router for the speaker cut-outs so I could recess them.

Glue in place with Liquid Nails and you can use the old motorboard as a template for the grill mounting holes. I built a stand for mine to raise it up off my TV as it was still causing EMI. You could just buy some cheap glue on rubber feet, and make sure it's aimed properly.

[4977]

Hi Snail's pace, Have you considered building a new cabinet? I have built a few for KLF 10's and KG 5.5's and it is not that difficult. As long as you cut your sheet goods square it is pretty easy. If you build 1 out of MDF it is pretty cheap also. You may also be able to buy cabinet grade plywood at a hardwood lumber yard and pay just a little extra to have the sheet cut to spec and be set. I have used both Mdf and plywood and have been satisfied with both.

Q.