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cleaning Scott


bkrop

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Dean oh Dean this man needs your guidance !!

Whatever you do be carefull if you use any kind of solvent put it on a rag first to be carefull not to leak it under the chassis and in the adjustment pots !! Dean uses different types of sand paper and steel wool or something and they turn out stunning with a brushed aluminum type finish. Do a search for "Craigmeister Scott 299a still for sale" back about 6 months ago there is a picture of Dean's handy work.

Craig

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download.asp?mode=download&fileID=26001&

NO SOLVENTS!!

The metal job on the Scott was done using a Scotchbrite scratchpad (equivelant to .000 steel wool, but does not fray), and 1500 grit cloth. Start with the scratchpad to loose all surface grit, grease, stains, etc. It's important to only go in one direction as much as possible. When finished, vacuum. Vacuum well, especially the tube sockets. Then begin again with the cloth. One direction only. It's not always possible to do this because of things you have to get to with wierd angles. Keep in mind that the cloth is removing a bit of metal, and so leaves a 'grain'. Going in one direction helps it to make it not to look like, well -- like some idiot scoured it with an SOS pad:)

The whole surface will turn black from this process. When finished, used windex to clean everything off (spray the windex on a clean cotton rag, not on the amp). A tee-shirt will do nicely for this. At this point, go back over it again with the scratchpad to restore the satin look it started with. Again, one direction only. When you are happy with the look, vacuum again -- pay special attention to the tube sockets.

Remove the bottom plate of the amp and vacuum. I used the horsehair brush attachment. When done, remove the brush and do the tube sockets from underneath.

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Thanks Dean ! I would of thought to cover the sockets with masking tape to prevent metal dust and such from falling in. I have x to 5x fine steel wool for furniture refinishing, what grit would you recommend?

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NO STEEL WOOL -- that stuff goes everywhere -- bad, bad, bad.

Use a Scotchbrite scratchpad, or go to the hardware store and buy a similiar thing used for wood finishing, often referred to as a "finishing pad".

Even if you tape the sockets, make sure you vacuum every square millimeter of the amp when you are done.

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Randy,

It doesn't just make it easier ! It makes it truly possible to bias the amp. None of the Scott amps have a true full bias adjustment setup. Some will get you close but none do it to its perfection. I add test points for every output tube and separate adjustment for each channel. Each of the Scott amps start out with a deferent setup. The amp you see above is a 299A which comes factory with a single Bias voltage adjust pot and no way to properly measure it. It also come with balance pots for each channel but no reliable way to balance it. The 299B comes with proper test point to set the bias for each channel but no way to balance the bias for each tube so you could be running one tube a 25 ma and the other at 30ma or worse depending on how well matched the tubes are. With the tube variations today of even the supposed match quads you buy getting the Bias properly adjust for EACH TUBE is very important for a good balanced sound and also tube life.

Craig

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Craig,

I thought (and I could be wrong here ) that when you you did the DC balance that we talked about that we were balanceing the two tubes that were in each channel and than you did the bias again and that would bias all the tubes correctly, but if this is indeed true your idea would be easlier and faster to do anyway and keep me from haveing to take the amp apart to do the DC balance everytime I wanted to check the Bias or change tubes and reset the bias. If you have any pictures of what it would look like (on the 299B) post them so I can see what you are talking about, I might want to send you my amp sometime for such a Mod.1.gif

Randy

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