mac_daddy Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 I broke one of these when moving. I assume this is something I can handle myself. I have these babies new in 1989, but have never opened them up. Any help would be appreciated - a new tube amp is on it's way, and I would like my speaker to be ready... Thanks (in advance) for any and all assistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cornell Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 Where are you located, i can send you one off my cornwall 2s, red or black, but i caint promise when i can get it sent! But soon! I have important things to do here. Regards Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mac_daddy Posted July 3, 2003 Author Share Posted July 3, 2003 Thank you for your offer - it is the black one, and I live in Los Angeles... Is there a place I should order from? Is installing the post difficult? what is involved? thanks again for any and all assistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g3dahl Posted July 3, 2003 Share Posted July 3, 2003 Go to http://www.partsexpress.com and type "binding post" in the search window. You will get about 3 pages of posts, with pictures. Some will undoubtedly match your originals, or you might choose to replace the originals with something of higher quality. Installation should be simple: 1. Unscrew and remove the rectangular terminal cup from the back panel. 2. Unsolder the internal wire from the binding post. 3. Remove the old binding post, and install the replacement. 4. Re-solder the wire to the new binding post. 5. Re-intall the rectangular terminal cup into the back panel. Your binding posts might be the type where both are captive in a plastic block. If this is the case, you will need to replace both posts as a unit. Compare the ones in your speakers with the ones on the Parts Express page; it should be clear what your options are. Standard mounting for binding posts is on 3/4" centers, so you shouldn't have trouble with them fitting. The WBT's are a bit different, though, so if you want to try them you will need to do a bit of research. Good luck! g3dahl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mac_daddy Posted July 4, 2003 Author Share Posted July 4, 2003 Thanks for the advice, g3dahl It looks like the positive and negative posts are all in the same unit, so I guess I will have to replace the whole thing... Is this the right project for me to pop my cherry with a soldering gun (never used one before)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g3dahl Posted July 4, 2003 Share Posted July 4, 2003 Sometimes the individual posts will come out of the block after you disconnect the wires and remove the nuts, but I would replace the whole block. If you are replacing the whole thing, I suggest that you cut the wires, about 1/4" from the end of the insulation. When you strip some of the insulation to prepare the new connection, this will expose some clean copper, resulting in a better joint. You will probably still need to remove the remnants of the wires from the old posts in order to unscrew the nuts and remove the dual 5-way binding post assembly. Sometimes it's just as easy to cut off the back ends of the posts instead. Your soldering gun will be the right tool for making the new connection. I use a pencil-shaped soldering iron (actually a temperature-controlled soldering station) for most electronics work, but binding posts sometimes require the extra heat provided by a gun anyway. Use rosin-core solder, not the stuff used for plumbing (which often comes with the soldering gun). If you don't have any, you can get it at Radio Shack; come to think of it, you can probably get the replacement binding posts there too! You should have a damp sponge nearby when soldering. Heat the iron, melt some solder onto the tip, and wipe it off on the sponge. The iron always needs to be kept properly "tinned" in this way. Strip about 1/4" of insulation from a wire end, twist the strands together, wrap it around the recess at the back of the binding post, and prepare to solder. Some posts have a hole or a little cup to receive the wire. The wire should be securely in place before you solder. Heat the soldering gun until it is hot enough to melt a bit of solder, wipe it off on the sponge, and place the tip on the joint, with the trigger still depressed. The iron should be touching both surfaces to be joined. Apply heat for about three seconds, then touch the solder to the joint, near the tip of the gun. The solder will begin to melt and flow into the joint. Very soon after the solder begins to flow, it will have wetted the entire joint. Stop adding solder before it begins to build up, then remove the gun. Watch as the joint begins to cool, but don't blow on it! Don't let anything move. You will probably be able to tell when the solder solidifies. The completed joint should be shiny, and both the wire and post should be wetted. If the solder turns gray and grainy, or beads up like water on a newly-waxed car, you have a "cold solder joint" and need to re-melt it. One last note...if you don't have a lot of soldering experience, don't buy the most exotic binding posts you can find. I have some beautiful beryllium copper Edison Price binding posts on my amplifiers, but they are really difficult to solder wires to...they are so massive, it takes an incredible amount of heat! In case you would like to see my amps, they can be seen at: http://www.nutshellhifi.com/triode1.html g3dahl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mac_daddy Posted July 4, 2003 Author Share Posted July 4, 2003 many thanks - I will post details of my progress to let you know how things come along... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted July 5, 2003 Share Posted July 5, 2003 Gary, Very nice amps. I found the site on the next a couple of weeks ago and read through most of the copy. Soldering things that require more hear can be problematic. I used to do repair on three phase motor controllers, and some things were easy with the temp contolled stations we had. On some connections you needed to pull out the big gun!. The temp controlled station makes a big difference when soldering though, especially on the smaller stuff. Marvel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbflash Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 Macdaddy, Very good advice. If you want to spend alittle more money these are all the binding post's you will every need. I replaced my Cornwalls post with these and I just recieved a pair in the mail Sat that I am going to use for my Heresy's. These post's will except any wire or lugs you will ever try. I ordered the CCBP-L. http://www.diycable.com/main/default.php?cPath=26_44_49 They are easy to replace. All you need is at least a 40W soldering gun/pencil. Good Luck. Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbflash Posted July 14, 2003 Share Posted July 14, 2003 Good News Bad News. The Cardas CCBP-L work great on Cornwalls. The Cardas CCBP-L are too long for Heresy's. The squaker gets in the way.I installed them in my Heresy's Saturday. Time I added the posts and wire and installed the back panel the wire was hitting the squaker. I rotated the panel 180 degrees. The screw holes line up. Everything fits great. The only difference is the posts are near the bottom, instead of near the top. I am trying out some new wire. It is 10 gauge. I am using bare copper, no lugs. It fits no problem with the Cardas. So if you want the posts up top after you replace them the CCBP-L are alittle to long. Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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