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OMG!! I just brought home my new gems! They sound great!


itsmyforte

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I just brought home my new Forte's(1's), set them in place and hooked them up. I have only gave a listen for about 10 minutes and i am already in aww! When i seen these i knew they were what i wanted, now after hearing them i know i made the right choice. cosmetically they are an 8 out of 10. There is a couple light scratches and one nicked corner, but other than that they look beautiful.

i took a few pics for show and tell.

left.jpg

right.jpg

rack.jpg

so any opinions on the Forte's? anything i need to know, or need to be aware of?

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On 7/18/2003 10:44:16 PM prodj101 wrote:

they look great, just not sure I like how they're placed. they may sound drastically better if you move them into a more open space, and out from the corners.

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i know, unfortunately my listening room is my bedroom. the HT setup is in the living room but it sucks as a listening room. hardwood floors, brick wall, huge room. its steals the bass and boosts the highs. Rents won't let me "address" the problem so no acoustic treatment can be made. Even worse is the setup, TV is shoved in a corner with towers sitting a few inches in front of TV. my room is a bit more padded, so its all i have at the moment(living at home with parent). however what is important is that i use the same setup for all testing so any speakers changes i make i can still hear the differences. consistency in testing is the most important feature when doing evaluations.

HTsetup.jpg

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HTsetup1.JPG

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Rents won't let me "address" the problem so no acoustic treatment can be made.

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Jay....I'm going give up some 'secrets' as to how to handle that without doing (hardly) any damage to interior walls or surfaces.

Several materials I use for acoustics are Celotex rigid insulation, Masonite fiberboard and various acoustic foam 'tiles' or 'blocks'. The first two are very inexpensive ($5-10 for a 4x8' sheet).

Celotex can, over time, create some dust from the fiber particles. You can simply cover it with inexpensive linen type fabric. Larger sections do not need to be 'structurally secure'. They just need to be secured to the wall with a very small tack type nail or steel 'T' pins at few locations.

The Masonite panels can simply be bowed between the floor & ceiling. The only thing you have to be careful here is if there is a heating and/or cooling register near the panels, especially if its blowing air directly on them. In winter for instance, the heat seems to soften the fiberboard just enough so that if there is not quite enough pressure from the bow to keep it in place, the panels may fall over. You can put a wood base along the bottom to increase the amount of bow, and/or put a few cleats along the back top to secure it to the ceiling as you would a picture on a wall. Or put some kind of molding along the top front edge to hold it in place. It doesn't take much.

Acoustic foam tiles/panels such as those made by Auralex & Sonex can be attached to drywall with 1-1/2" to 2" "T" pins (like the kind that is used for holding papers on office cubicle dividers with fabric surfaces) (you may have to special order them from an office supply store as they are not as common as they used to be). They're cheap. Box of 100 is a buck or 2. You can even stack the tiles, two or three deep on top of each other by just securing them onto the tile behind it with the same T type pins.

The T pins leave very small holes in the drywall that most people wouldn't even notice when you take it down. And even if you have to patch the tiny holes, a once over with a tiny dab of spackle or drywall compound using a small trowel will fill-in the holes with no need for sanding or repainting. The T pins also allow you to experiment with placement, without doing any permanent damage to the walls that requires repair.

Congratulations on the Forte's. My brother-in-law had pair.....until his soon-to-be-divorced lunatic wife kicked a hole thru the woofers (grrrrr)

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On 7/19/2003 4:16:41 PM artto wrote:

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Rents won't let me "address" the problem so no acoustic treatment can be made.

----------------

Jay....I'm going give up some 'secrets' as to how to handle that without doing (hardly) any damage to interior walls or surfaces.

Several materials I use for acoustics are Celotex rigid insulation, Masonite fiberboard and various acoustic foam 'tiles' or 'blocks'. The first two are very inexpensive ($5-10 for a 4x8' sheet).

Celotex can, over time, create some dust from the fiber particles. You can simply cover it with inexpensive linen type fabric. Larger sections do not need to be 'structurally secure'. They just need to be secured to the wall with a very small tack type nail or steel 'T' pins at few locations.

The Masonite panels can simply be bowed between the floor & ceiling. The only thing you have to be careful here is if there is a heating and/or cooling register near the panels, especially if its blowing air directly on them. In winter for instance, the heat seems to soften the fiberboard just enough so that if there is not quite enough pressure from the bow to keep it in place, the panels may fall over. You can put a wood base along the bottom to increase the amount of bow, and/or put a few cleats along the back top to secure it to the ceiling as you would a picture on a wall. Or put some kind of molding along the top front edge to hold it in place. It doesn't take much.

Acoustic foam tiles/panels such as those made by Auralex & Sonex can be attached to drywall with 1-1/2" to 2" "T" pins (like the kind that is used for holding papers on office cubicle dividers with fabric surfaces) (you may have to special order them from an office supply store as they are not as common as they used to be). They're cheap. Box of 100 is a buck or 2. You can even stack the tiles, two or three deep on top of each other by just securing them onto the tile behind it with the same T type pins.

The T pins leave very small holes in the drywall that most people wouldn't even notice when you take it down. And even if you have to patch the tiny holes, a once over with a tiny dab of spackle or drywall compound using a small trowel will fill-in the holes with no need for sanding or repainting. The T pins also allow you to experiment with placement, without doing any permanent damage to the walls that requires repair.

Congratulations on the Forte's. My brother-in-law had pair.....until his soon-to-be-divorced lunatic wife kicked a hole thru the woofers (grrrrr)

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thx for the tips, but nothing and i mean nothing is allowed to be put on the walls or stacked. The family room is for show and tell, blah!!

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