PAR69 Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 My La Scalas were saved from an abusive home and as a result they have some scratches and gouges I need to repair. They are LS FB (flat black) TG (top grill)with the AL networks and no noticable upgrades. So, my first question are these made of birch plywood or MDF? Do you recommend wood filler, wood dough or Bondo? And, after the dents are fixed I need to repaint them, so any recommendations for paint? Also, the wedge edge in both bass bins is missing its paint, not that it is any big deal, but has anyone else had this happen? Thanks, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 In my projects, I use Elmer's Carpenter wood filler. The type rated for outdoor applications. There has never been a problem. It may be based on yellow Elmer's glue. That is what I use for gluing. My recall is that wood dough is a lacquer based product. Bondo is epoxy based. Probably, bondo would be best if a big hole has to be filled. I used it on the old Volvo. Overall I can't see that you can go wrong either way. Once they are cured, my guess is that they'll all take paint very well. I don't know what to say about paint. One consideration is 1) what is there now and 2) will the new stuff bond to it. The original might be lacquer. Maybe that is an argument for wood dough, too. During the last convention at Indy, we saw some wonderful LS with a black piano finish. They looked terrific. In view of all the above, you might consider using wood dough. Then use a lacquer based paint. But this is somewhat guesswork on my part. I've not done it myself. The main focus is on keeping the types of finish constant and compatable. Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR69 Posted August 19, 2003 Author Share Posted August 19, 2003 Thanks Gil, They are currently flat black not the black laquer, and I like them like that, as you can just see a hint of the wood grain showing through. Also, I think to change now to black laquer, I would have to remove all the old paint, then paint, but this is just a guess. Any thoughts on network upgrades, the AL seems lackluster to me. I am thinking of either building ALK's or looking for a pair used AA's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOZ Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 Par, The AA's require alnico drivers. If your Las are '88's they won't have them. The ALK's will do wonders for you and your speakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted August 20, 2003 Share Posted August 20, 2003 I'd go with the wood filler or dough, depending on the hole size. I wouldn't recommend bondo as it is quite a bit harder than wood so it'll be a little more difficult to sand smooth... it'll have a tendancy of appearing like a convex repair. You also mentionned that the wood grain shows through a little... and this may cause your repairs to show more as they will be smoother than the rest of the finish. If the repairs are small, it won't make much of a difference. later... Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregorius Posted August 20, 2003 Share Posted August 20, 2003 It depends on where your repairs are on the speaker. if it is on the side wood dough type putty would work fine. If they are on the corners, wood dough has a tendency to chip, I have used Bondo wood repair epoxy, not the auto body type which is primarily Talc and can absorb moisture. It is a two-part expoxy which sets up very hard and strong, but it is easily sanded with 100 grit sandpaper and a sanding block. It is about $15 for two, one pint cans. As far as the repair being smoother, no mattter what you use it will have the grain of the plywood. You would have to simulate it the putty before it hardened or just live with it. Regards, Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted August 20, 2003 Share Posted August 20, 2003 My La Scalas were repaired with wood dough as far as I know and then treated with a conditioner to even out the stain. If you are painting, I don't think it matters much. The Type AL is not a good xover. Your best bet is to build a Type AA using premium components. John Warren did such. It will be cheaper than the ALK, but not necessarily any better As with the ALK, you can use it with the K-55-M. If you are not using large amps you could build a Type A even. There is a couple of Type A based designs on the Forun. Search for "brother". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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