yamaklipsch Posted January 24, 2004 Share Posted January 24, 2004 As you all know, my RF-3IIs have the capability to be bi wired. From what I've been reading, it appears that this method is preferred by most people. Not necessarily on Klipsch only but on other brands as well. Does anyone bi-wire their speakers? Any pros and/or cons? I am using a Yamaha RX-V1400 receiver so I would use A and B terminals. Is this correct? I was always unsure of this so I figured this would be the best place to ask this question!! Thanks in advance for any thoughts!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arthurs Posted January 24, 2004 Share Posted January 24, 2004 you'll get much debate on the benefits of bi-wiring. try it and see for yourself. if you hear improvement, great, if not, great. signalcable.com will sell you bi-wire cheap with a 30 day return... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted January 24, 2004 Share Posted January 24, 2004 I've heard multiple systems before and after bi-wiring with mixed results. If you have a subwoofer and set the cross over correctly, I don't think there's a lot of benefit. If you don't have a sub, it may make a difference. If you can get cables to test, and be able to get a refund if it makes no difference, that's a great option. All the opinions in the world can't beat the results you actually get at home! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hz536n Posted January 25, 2004 Share Posted January 25, 2004 I have the RB-3 speakers biwired from my Acurus A150 in the stereo setup. For HT, my RB-5 and RC-3 speakers are biwired to the Yamaha RX-V1200. My opinion? I like it. In both systems my sound is clean, crisp, detailed and open. I am now using Canare StarQuad 4S11 wire for these speakers. I do not know what you mean by "A and B". I run the Canare speaker wires doubled (R+R and W+W)into banana connectors to the amps' main L and R channel outputs and then split into 4 spades at the individual speaker terminals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrMcGoo Posted January 25, 2004 Share Posted January 25, 2004 If you bi-wire, you must run both sets of wire to the SAME terminals on your amp. Do NOT use the B terminals. The A terminals are for the room that you are in and the B terminals are for a second room. The main benefit is that you use more copper which reduces resistance. Plain 12 gage zip cord (stranded wire)is ok. Use banana plugs for one set of wires and put the other set in the slots where you loosen the same terminal on the amp. Your owner's manual should have pictures. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whadyasay Posted January 25, 2004 Share Posted January 25, 2004 What are the disadvantages of putting both ends of the wire into the same banana plug at the amp end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougdrake Posted January 26, 2004 Share Posted January 26, 2004 Depending on wire gauge, it may be difficult to get both wires into one banana plug. However, you can also use stacking banana plugs if you don't have 2 sets of main speaker outputs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whadyasay Posted January 26, 2004 Share Posted January 26, 2004 Thanks, Doug. What I have presently is in-wall type cable that has four individual insulated 14g. wires encased in a white PVC jacket, I have them in twisted pairs at the amp end, each pair snugly encased in one banana plug for the appropriate +/- terminal, and at the speaker end, each separate wire has a spade connector for the two pairs of binding posts. I don't see this as being much different than fcatory/custom made bi-wire cables. I could see it being too much if I was using 12g. wire, but the 14g. pairs just fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelerFan Posted January 26, 2004 Share Posted January 26, 2004 As far as biwiring....I just don't get it. Why not just use bigger guage wire? I'm not saying I'm right here, but I'd be more tempted to upgrade the little jumper cables that come with the speaker. I know Cobalt cable sells them along with many others I'm sure. My $.02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrMcGoo Posted January 26, 2004 Share Posted January 26, 2004 Steeler, I agree, just use 10 gage stranded wire and use a better jumper between the low and high frequency terminals. Bi-wireing only helps when actively bi-amping. An active crossover by Bryston or whomever is needed to actively bi-amp, but results can be excellent. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W. Graley Posted January 26, 2004 Share Posted January 26, 2004 ---------------- On 1/26/2004 11:00:33 PM MrMcGoo wrote: Steeler, I agree, just use 10 gage stranded wire and use a better jumper between the low and high frequency terminals. Bi-wireing only helps when actively bi-amping. An active crossover by Bryston or whomever is needed to actively bi-amp, but results can be excellent. Bill ---------------- As I understand it, at the speaker level there are two boards that are the cross over boards to the speakers, when you separate the inputs you help to isolate RIGHT at the speaker the low freq and high freq signal path, some speculate that you have some mixing if they are tied together, how ever slight that must be, but a help is a help. I bi-wired my RF7s and found it to make them sound a little more open sounding, and yes, it's a tight fit of wire into the connectors, I use a nice large banana connector that allows to put in large wires, but still it's a tight area on the back of the receiver!!! G2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrMcGoo Posted January 26, 2004 Share Posted January 26, 2004 I bi-wire my RF-7s and hear a benefit, but I ascribe it to larger copper wire and better contact with the speaker terminals. The two halves of the passive crossover network are connected either way; the only difference is in the length of the wire. Active bi-amping gets rid of the passive crossovers on the speaker. There is a real change in performance with actove bi-amping. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbflash Posted January 27, 2004 Share Posted January 27, 2004 Try this link. www.davidmannaudio.com Go to FAQ. I bi-wire my KLF20's and like the difference. Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjgeraci Posted January 27, 2004 Share Posted January 27, 2004 I bi-wire my RF3IIs and my front center, and I think it makes the speakers slightly fuller sounding. The increase in performance/sound was worth it compared to the marginal hassle/expense. -------------------- Downstairs Samsung TXN3245FP Harmon Kardon AVR 525 Denon DVD-2900 Mains: Klipsch RF3II Center: Klipsch RF3II Surrounds: Klipsch RS35 Left Rear: Klipsch KLF-C7 Right Rear: Klipsch RC35 SVS 20-39PCi SVS PB2-ISD Upstairs Yamaha RX-V1300 Mains, Center: Onkyo SKS-HT500 Surrounds: Axiom QS-8 HSU VTF-2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W. Graley Posted January 27, 2004 Share Posted January 27, 2004 Well tonight I updated my Bi-Wire on my speakers, RF7 and RC7, had the following at first; 12ga monster going to the low freq posts Audioquest Type 4, had 2 x 20ga and 2 x 17ga, doubled up for the high freq posts. NOW replaced the Audioquests with some 12Ga SoundKing wire, sounds a lot fuller sounding and more open, if your speakers have a way to Bi-wire them, by all means do so. I JUST got the roll of SoundKing wire from PartsExpress.com, good people, poor packaging! The box was beat, the reel of wire, 8 pounds of it, tried to bash it's way out of the cardboard box and the set of banana plugs that I ordered along with the wire made a fast escape enroute with UPS. I called them and they were very sorry and will replace them, it's my word that they didn't arrive but I hoped they'd believe me that I'd not try anything like that for some banana plugs. I asked the lady to alert their packers to becareful when boxing up a roll of wire as it didn't like the ride! G2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W. Graley Posted January 28, 2004 Share Posted January 28, 2004 Here are some very nice banana plugs that will accept several wires at one time, I use these to put the two 12ga wires into one plug, tightens down VERY tight with two pliers, solid! See them here http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&User_ID=17216365&St=8466&St2=58737455&St3=-66331061&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=2476&DID=7 G2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted January 28, 2004 Share Posted January 28, 2004 For me, it is an application-specific question, so I have 2 anwers: 1) My opinion is that bi-wiring is a waste of money for non-critical listening as with a movie soundtrack where who really cares if the explosion is reproduced as accurately as possible... how in the hell do they record an explosion anyway? here's a clue: THEY DON'T - it is usually synthesized. So you wouldn't know a good explosion from a bad one no matter what wiring you use - so why spend extra money for better wire in such a case? 2) Now for critical listening such as stereo music only, you may enjoy a noticable benefit that you feel is worth the money by using bi-wiring. Just another opinion and everyones got one.... DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamaklipsch Posted January 28, 2004 Author Share Posted January 28, 2004 Thanks for all the replies!! It seems that a lot of people feel it is not necessary and that bi-amping would benefit more. I'll probably go ahead and try it when I feel ambitious enough to tear apart my gear. (Maybe for spring cleaning) Chances are, I'll just leave it as is. THANX AGAIN!!! Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.