bryan750 Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 I have a birch veneer cornwall that the veneer is wanting to seperate at the back of the speaker.Does anyone know how to fix this and after that I want to veneer both speakers and wanted to find some good sources to buy veneer from,also what is the optimum thickness I need to be looking for.thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 Hi Bryan, If there is a seperation or void which has developed between the face veneer and the substrate you can use a glue syringe to fill the void with Titebond II wood glue. Once the Titebond has dryed, you can use a clothes iron on the cotton setting to reactivate the glue and press the area back into place. If a void has developed between ply layers(like if the back of the cabinet got really wet or something), use the glue syringe to inject the Titebond II into the void and clamp until dry. You could also do the same if it is just the veneer instead of the above method. Remove any excess glue which may have squeezed out once dry by scraping and sanding. As far as veneers are concerned, you have some options. If the cabinets are nice enough where any dings can be filled and the cabinets can be sanded nicely, you can just use an unbacked veneer. With most species, you will have to tape a couple sheets together in order to achieve the approximate 15.5 or so inches in width that the Corn's will require. Certain species may take 3 sheets. You can use the Titebond II iron on method above to apply the veneer. Roll it on both surfaces with a foam roller, let it completely dry, set it in place and press it on with the iron. If the cabinets are really screwed up(like my Corn's were)you may choose to use a veneer that is a little thicker(better hiding)due to an attached substrate of some type such as paper or wood backing or a multilayered veneer up to about 22 mil. These veneers are available in sheets and would require no taping to achieve the desired width. These are available in just about every species. I would not go any thicker than 10 mil, otherwise you will have great difficulty in obtaining nice transitional(grain)corner joints. As far as the front/leading edge is concerned you can cover/veneer those in a couple ways. Pre-glued edgebanding is available in various widths and species(most domestics). You would iron this on as above. If you choose to go with a more exotic wood you will have to cut your own edging strips from the veneer and use the gluing and ironing method of application. Veneer sources: www.oakwoodveneer.com www.certainlywood.com www.tapeease.com Glue syringe: www.woodcraft.com www.rockler.com I hope this helps a little Bryan. Whatever you do when veneering, take your time! Do not rush ANY of the steps and you should be OK. If you have any specific questions onceyou get more into the thought process, I will be happy to help. I am no expert by any means, I am just towards the downside of finishing my Corn's so everything is still fresh. Best of luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 To reiterate, if you are going to reveneer you need to start with a good substrate. Remove chips or glue them down. Then fill with wood putty and sand flat. Anything imperfections that you can see or feel with telegraph through the veneer. Better to fix them now than to try to fix them after the veneer is applied and risk sanding through. You need to get a good book on veneering and read it before doing anything more. Constantine's has a good one. You can find just about any wood you want in veneer. There are many forms of veneer. The traditional type is just thin sheets of wood. There are also paper backed veneer and veneer backed with other materials. Some is preglued. And some is so thin that you can wrap it around tight curves. As for thickness, you don't have much choice. It mostly varies with species and form. The actual wood veneer is going to be thinner on backed veneer than unbacked veneer. So, although traditional veneer is more work to prepare and apply, it is more forgiving of mistakes in preparation of the substrate, application, and sanding. My favorite sources of veneer: Constantine's--major, old-time veneer company, big selection eBay--you can see the exact veneer you are going to get local suppliers--more limited selection, but you know exactly what you are getting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan750 Posted February 12, 2004 Author Share Posted February 12, 2004 Thanks for the replys,I have been looking at a lot of wood veneers and I have just about decided on rosewood for it's grain structure,a lot of examples on ebay seem to have a lot of wavyness to them,I don't know how hard this would be to lay down,also did anyone get a veneer saw and is this the way to go for splicing the pieces together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 Be aware there is rosewood and there is rosewood. Much of what you see on eBay nowadays is santos rosewood, also called pau ferro, and is not botanically rosewood. Real rosewood is from the genus dalbergia. Santos rosewood is from another genus. It is not the same as Brazilian rosewood, dalbergia nigra, which is what you see on the odd older pair of rosewood Klipschorns that show up. But it is sure a lot easier to obtain. I am very slowly building some cabinets that will be veneered in it. In any case, the waviness in the grain is not a problem. Assuming the veneer has been stored and handled properly, it will be pretty flat when it arrives. And it can be flattened easily if necessary. I have a veneer saw. But I prefer a sharp knife to a veneer saw for splicing sheets. I takes a bit more practice, but works better for me. You just have to be sure the blade does not follow the grain instead of going where you want it to go. I also made a jig that clamps two pieces face to face and fits into the slot on my router table to joint the pieces. Saves a lot of time on long pieces. Once the pieces fit up properly, you need to tape them together and glue the edges together. The book I mentioned covers the way to do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 Bryan, often the sheets of veneer have at least one straight edge to begin with. I got a bunch of zebrawood from a company on ebay, and both edges of all the sheets were very straight. This saved me a whole lot of time. Get some veneer tape from tapeease. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 You can also use plain old fashioned box tape, the kind you have to moisten to apply. The only downside is that it will probably be wider than veneer tape, meaning more cleanup after the joint dries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 Constantines has a special on BRAZILIAN Rosewood right now. Only bad thing is I see it is three feet in length, the exact length of a Cornwall side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 How much is the Brazilian rosewood there? Is it raw, unbacked veneer, or is it NBL, or paper backed? Have someone check for you, very often they say 3' long, but it's actually a bit longer. I've never heard of box tape. Do you mean masking tape? No, because you don't moisten masking tape. Interesting. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylanl Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 Traditional Box tape used to be dispensed out of a Tape machine that has a water tray on the front. The tape would slide across a wet brush that extended out of the tray moistening the gum on the tape. I think this is what he is refering to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 Greg, It appears to be raw, unbacked, 4"-5" wide, approx. 3 ft. long at $3.60 per square foot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 Also, I think I would go for the veneer tape. I think removal/cleanup would be much less time consuming than with the box tape. Veneer tape also has holes in it so you can see what is going on with the joint beneath before securing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 I have been using purple masking tape with good results. I pull the splice together and space strips across the splice under tension then tape the seam long ways. This tape removes very easily and leaves no glue residue even if you touch up the glue with an iron. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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