MPNX2 Posted April 22, 2004 Share Posted April 22, 2004 Does anyone who owns these speakers biamp them. I am not talking about biwiring but by amping. I was going to try the following using my RF-35's and my AVR7200: 1. Use RCA cables to connect the main L/R pre-outs to an unused input 2. Go into the Multi-Room menu and set Multi-Room to ON 3. Set the Multi-Room source (MULTI IN) to the source you connected the L/R pre-outs to 4. Go to the Advanced menu and set the SB AMPS to MR SP (Multi-Room Speakers) 5. Connect the main L/R amp terminals to the High Freqency inputs on your speakers, and the Surround Back amp terminals to the Low Frequency inputs (and remember to remove the jumper straps!) Then I read in the RF-35's manual that biamping is not recommended on any Klipsch speaker. So nobody biamps their mains here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yromj Posted April 22, 2004 Share Posted April 22, 2004 ---------------- On 4/22/2004 6:12:50 PM MPNX2 wrote: Does anyone who owns these speakers biamp them. I am not talking about biwiring but by amping. I was going to try the following using my RF-35's and my AVR7200: 1. Use RCA cables to connect the main L/R pre-outs to an unused input 2. Go into the Multi-Room menu and set Multi-Room to ON 3. Set the Multi-Room source (MULTI IN) to the source you connected the L/R pre-outs to 4. Go to the Advanced menu and set the SB AMPS to MR SP (Multi-Room Speakers) 5. Connect the main L/R amp terminals to the High Freqency inputs on your speakers, and the Surround Back amp terminals to the Low Frequency inputs (and remember to remove the jumper straps!) Then I read in the RF-35's manual that biamping is not recommended on any Klipsch speaker. So nobody biamps their mains here? ---------------- Step 5 is where the problem lies. The two sets of inputs on the back of the speaker are not "HIgh Frequency" and "Low Frequency" inputs. Both sets of inputs lead to the same passive cross-over in the speaker. Horizontal bi-amping (the kind you would be doing) does offer some potential improvements, but they are small. To vertically bi-amp, which actually uses an external active cross-over in FRONT of the amps and then connects the amps directly to the drivers, offers major improvements. However, this is no easy task and takes a great deal of knowledge. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v3spitfire Posted April 23, 2004 Share Posted April 23, 2004 But, you do gain watts, I believe. If one person is running a 100 watt amplifier to the terminals w/ a jumper, and a 2nd person is running two of those same amps, 1 to the HF and 1 to the LF, the 2nd person is sending 200 watts total to the speaker. The way I understand it is that due to the ohms difference, the tweeter will be getting somthing less than 100 watts, the woofer something more than 100. Thats what I think I've gleaned from others here, hopefully they'll correct me if I've mis-stated this. I actually called klipshe tech support, and they don't recommend active crossovers, but their fine with running identical amps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBrennan Posted April 23, 2004 Share Posted April 23, 2004 The dubious practice of running two full-range signals to the legs of a speaker's passive crossover is known to enthusiasts of real biamping as "fool's bi-amping". Bi-amping is the practice of seperating the signal by frequency between the preamp and amplifiers. Thus one amp receives low frequency info only and is connected directly to the woofer terminals. The other amp receives only the high frequnecy information and then is connected directly to the treble driver terminals. The frequency splitting between preamp and amps can be done with an active crossover, which is called just plain bi-amping, or with a pasive network. This is called passive bi-amping. In both cases frequency division is made between preamp and amps and NO passive crossovers are used at the speaker level. See the attachment for a diagram of a bi-amped speaker, I think I chose 500hz to illustrate but it doesn't matter what frequency is chosen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yromj Posted April 24, 2004 Share Posted April 24, 2004 ---------------- On 4/23/2004 6:38:15 PM v3pcbl wrote: But, you do gain watts, I believe. If one person is running a 100 watt amplifier to the terminals w/ a jumper, and a 2nd person is running two of those same amps, 1 to the HF and 1 to the LF, the 2nd person is sending 200 watts total to the speaker. The way I understand it is that due to the ohms difference, the tweeter will be getting somthing less than 100 watts, the woofer something more than 100. Thats what I think I've gleaned from others here, hopefully they'll correct me if I've mis-stated this. I actually called klipshe tech support, and they don't recommend active crossovers, but their fine with running identical amps. ---------------- v3, That's the small advantage I mentioned. However, it is very important to realize that the two sets of binding posts on the rear of the speaker are both full range connectors. Simply removing the jumper does not suddently transform one set to be a LF set and the other to a HF set. Think of it this way, the speaker w/ two sets of terminals and a jumper is bi-wired just as much as the same speaker w/ two terminals and two individual speaker wires run full length from the amp to both terminals. The only difference, electrically speaking, is the length of the 2nd "wire". In the case of the jumper, the jumper is the 2nd wire. Therefore the wire is very short. As stated before, bi-amping can make some differences (especially vertical bi-amping), but bi-wiring simply reduces the resistance in the wire to the speaker, and therefore decreases the power lost in the wire. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v3spitfire Posted April 24, 2004 Share Posted April 24, 2004 Thanks John, I know its not truly bi-amping as it should be done, but if someone has the identical extra amp (as I did), this seems like a logical choice, as it does increase your overall power. It seems that biamping w/ 2 100 watt 2 channel amps (fools version) would give you the benefits of biwiring a single 200 watt amp. I would agree it would not make sense to go out and by a separate amp for this purpose. The only part I don't like about it is the term fool! But I'm learning to live with that to! TBrennen, yourself and many others have been very helpful with this topic over the months. I'm sure many have learned alot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ez8947 Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 Speaking of the 2 sets of terminals on the speaker. If you are running them conventional do you connect to the lf or hf? Maybe it does not matter with the jumper between them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yromj Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 ---------------- On 4/24/2004 8:42:15 PM v3pcbl wrote: Thanks John, ...The only part I don't like about it is the term fool! But I'm learning to live with that to! TBrennen, yourself and many others have been very helpful with this topic over the months. I'm sure many have learned alot. ---------------- v3, Whew!! I thought at first you were saying I used the term "fool" towards you. I see now what you're referring to. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yromj Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 ---------------- On 4/26/2004 1:19:29 PM ez8947 wrote: Speaking of the 2 sets of terminals on the speaker. If you are running them conventional do you connect to the lf or hf? Maybe it does not matter with the jumper between them? ---------------- There is no LF or HF terminals on the back of the speaker! The two terminals are EXACTLY THE SAME. That's why the jumper is used when you're not connecting the other wire. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ez8947 Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 oh, sorry. I have a pair of KLF 20 and I was just quoting the manuals use of terms. The KLF 20 and KLF 30 are equipped with two pairs of input terminals to facilitate a bi-wire or bi-amp hookup. In both cases, seperate speaker cables are used to carry the "HIGH" and "LOW" frequency signals INDEPENDENTLY to each speaker. This results in a reduction in distortion and an increase in clarity and detail. In a bi-wire hookup, the "HIGH" and "LOW" are connected to the same channel of one power amplifier. In a bi-amp configuration, the "HIGH" and "LOW" frequency cables are connected to separate amps. This type of hookup can increase the dynamic range of your system because of the potential increase in available power for "HIGH" and "LOW" frequency drivers. It also allows the use of two amps with different tonal qualities to be used for the "HIGH" and "LOW" frequency ranges. Ok my fingers are tired. But you see where I got that from. If yromj is right thats kinda misleading isnt it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.