vjkharat Posted July 18, 2001 Share Posted July 18, 2001 I have the following System: Sony KV27FS12 WEGA TV Onkyo DVC 601 DVD Player Sony N80 vcr++ Gold VCR Marantz SR 8000 A/V Receiver Klipsch RF3 Fronts Klipsch RC3 Center Klipsch RS3 Rears Klipsch KSW15 Sub I need recommendations for cables/interconnects. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boa12 Posted July 18, 2001 Share Posted July 18, 2001 hey vj just got back from seattle after 'bout a mo. & am really missing that great weather there. enjoy. there are a multitude of choices for cables & interconnects. in addition to those on my sig. below, i'm using a monster coax for the dvdp (also have their optical cable but couldn't hear any real dif. switching using it), AR s-video cables, & a tributaries dig. audio cable for the dig. cable box. i'll just say get good quality, try biwiring the rf-3 & rc-3, for coax interconnects get at least double shielded, & for all get run lengths as short as u will need. ------------------ Klipsch KLF 30 (front), KLF C-7, Cornwall I (rear) Velodyne HGS-18 sub woofer Monsterbass 400 sub interconnect & Monster CX-2 biwire & Z-12 cable Marantz SR-8000 receiver Sony DVP-C650D 5-disk cd/dvd player Sony Trinitron 27" stereo tv Toshiba hi-fi stereo vcr Technics dual cassette deck Scientific Atlanta Explorer 2000 digital cable box Boa's Listenin Lounge: Klipsch RF-3 (front), RC-3, cheap little Technics (rear) Monster MCX Biwires Sony STR-DE935 a/v receiver Kenwood KR-9600 AM/FM stereo receiver (vintage 1975) Russound AB-2 receiver switch to RF-3 Teac PD-D1200 5-disk cd changer Technics SL-1950 turntable/AT LS500 cartridge Sega Genesis game player Sub: None yet rock on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2K Posted July 18, 2001 Share Posted July 18, 2001 www.accessories4less.com Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audio Flynn Posted July 20, 2001 Share Posted July 20, 2001 Audioquest from Audioadvisor.com is real value Bettercables.com is reasonable. I think one should go by percentage of total system expense. 5% of $ 5000 is $250 would be a minimum Over 15% of system cost may be a bit much. If you do not tweak cables you are not an audiopile(not misspelled) or you have another life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2K Posted July 20, 2001 Share Posted July 20, 2001 Audio,I somewhat agree with what you say.I personally cannot understand why someone would spend thousands on audio equipment and connect the components together with the cheapest interconnects and/or speaker wire they can buy.I personally use Monster Interlink 400MKII interconnects and they cost just a few dollars more than Radio Shack interconnects.Build quality is better also.That goes for speaker wire also.I have noticed an improvement with my replacements,albeit small,but I am satisfied that I am getting the best possible sound for my investment.As far as what others think,I really don't give a crap.I try to satisfy myself.After all, I'm doing the paying,and the listening. My recommendation is: like your audio equipment,buy the best you can comfortably afford.And be happy. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOOMIS914 Posted July 20, 2001 Share Posted July 20, 2001 VJ-Welcome to the Klipsch/Marantz SR8000 Fan Club!!! I agree with AudioFlynn and TalktoKeith (Right on!!) Depending on where your emphasis is I would invest money for cables accordingly. For instance, good quality speaker cable and then depending on listening habits; 2ch purist or HT Boomer via DVD's, spend a little more for your S-Video/Component video cables or interconnects for your CD player. I personally use both Monster cable for speaker cable and subs but use Audioquest/Videoquest cables for DVD and CD player hook ups. Just remember Keith's rule: your paying AND listening, so buy what you feel is a good VALUE. I personally would never run regular unleaded in my Porsche 911 Carerra (if I had one) only the best high octane drinks would do. Just as you should not run your Klipsch/Marantz with Home Depot or radio shack 22 gauge lamp cord. Get ready to duck, because this thread is now probably going to take off. Let the rebuttal's begin!! ------------------ My main Klipsch system: KLF-30's Bi-wired KLF-C7 KSP-S6's KSW-15 Front Sub KSW-100 Rear Sub Monster cable 14 gauge in-wall cable Audioquest interconnects Niles SPS-4 speaker switch box Niles wall plates Niles in-wall volume controls Marantz SR-8000 Toshiba SD-4205 5 DVD changer Pioneer PDF-1007 301-CD changer Mitsubishi 35" TV Mitsubishi VCR Pioneer VSX-608 Multi-room amp for Outdoor deck Polk All-weather AW2's deck speakers Panamax DBS-8 Surge Protector Klipsch IC-525's in Master Bath 13" Sony Wega in Master Bath 1 Lava Lamp for Ambience Fridge full of beer and plenty of Don Julio, Jagermeister and Jim Beam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2K Posted July 20, 2001 Share Posted July 20, 2001 Bloomis, Of course I'm in agreement with what you say except for the fuel for your wishful Porsche.Some engines that specify or recommend higher octane may be harmed by high cost juice.The higher octane burns cooler,that say an 89 octane,and can leave harmful carbon deposits.I recently learned the hard way in my hi-performance race truck.I now only use the high octance stuff when I've found a good buy on audio equipment and,as you know,am in a large hurry to get there! Happy motoring, Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vjkharat Posted July 23, 2001 Author Share Posted July 23, 2001 Thanks everyone... I finally went with 1. Monster Cable Z1-250 bare Bi-wired my Mains and center with normal bare wiring my rears. 2. Monster M351 for my Subwoofer <2.5 m long> 3. Monster Z300 Reference S-video cable 4. Monster ILS200 Digital Optical cable It does sound sweet... This message has been edited by vjkharat on 07-24-2001 at 07:58 PM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOOMIS914 Posted July 23, 2001 Share Posted July 23, 2001 Keith- being in the auto biz here in Detroit..I must ask for clarification.....don't you mean the higher octane fuels burn HOTTER than lower octane fuels, which CAN result in engine damage??? I do have a high performance street bike (Crotch-rocketis-maximus) and have found this is absolutely true---the hard way. Want to make a stock motor melt down? run 104+ octane boost and run the Pi-- out of it for a few days....Internal temperatures will rise, potentially causing meltdowns. I always use the common(?) knowledge of running a tank or two of Super unleaded (93 or 94 octane) to eliminate spark knock which is a result of cheaper, lower octane, cooler burning fuels. Cooler burning fuels yield more carbon deposits. higher octane fuel up to 94 will not hurt standard motors, in fact, I firmly believe they will increase performance, keep fuel injectors cleaner and definitely prevent knocking in older vehicles. Sorry I digress but this one needs help since everyone buys gas/fuel at the pump. Brett ------------------ My main Klipsch system: KLF-30's Bi-wired KLF-C7 KSP-S6's KSW-15 Front Sub KSW-100 Rear Sub Monster cable 14 gauge in-wall cable Audioquest interconnects Niles SPS-4 speaker switch box Niles wall plates Niles in-wall volume controls Marantz SR-8000 Toshiba SD-4205 5 DVD changer Pioneer PDF-1007 301-CD changer Mitsubishi 35" TV Mitsubishi VCR Pioneer VSX-608 Multi-room amp for Outdoor deck Polk All-weather AW2's deck speakers Panamax DBS-8 Surge Protector Klipsch IC-525's in Master Bath 13" Sony Wega in Master Bath 1 Lava Lamp for Ambience Fridge full of beer and plenty of Don Julio, Jagermeister and Jim Beam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhawki Posted July 24, 2001 Share Posted July 24, 2001 OK, i would expect to see this on chevelles.com, but not Klipsch.com! Anyway, higher octane gas burns slower which is what eliminates the knock. You're giving the crank just a fraction more time to get around to where the piston is starting on the downstroke. Otherwise you have to retard the timing, which is what computers/knock sensors do. You can drop a match on some high octane race fuels without igniting them - like deisel, they have to be compressed to ignite. Never heard of it burning hotter though... will ask elsewhere and see what i can find out. -Rich Oh yea KLF-30 mains KLF-C7 center RS-3 surrounds Yamaha RX-V3000 Toshiba Theaterview 50" Toshiba DVD JVC VCR Sony satelite Monster Power 3500 Misc Monster Cable '74 Chevelle/Malibu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrPyro Posted July 25, 2001 Share Posted July 25, 2001 yeah...this is way of the great Klipsch debates... but never the less a good question...(for us auto freeks) Several "points" that are critical to the understanding the effect higher octane fuels... 1.) First, autos (gas not diesel) set the compression ratio BELOW the optimium value to prevent the autoignition of the fuel. This limits the efficency of the engine and overall power output. 2.) Second, In order to have the fuel/air mixture ignite, the spark plug is usually timed to trigger a few degrees before top dead center (max compression). As a result a portion of the total heat (and power) is "lost" since the engine is still compressing the fuel/air mixture. Furthermore, the engine timing is optimized for specific octane fuel. 3.) Finally, approximately about 10% - 20% of the fuel is comsumed PRIOR to the sparkplug due to the pressure and temperature increase in the cylinder. What the higher octane fuels do is change the chemical composition to a higher energy density fuel which are less prone to knock. This change has several effects: 1.)Due to the higher energy density, more heat (pressure & cylinder temperature) will be released. Causing cylinder temperature to rise. 2.) Due to the higher knock level, less of the 10-20% of the fuel will be consumed PRIOR to ignition...thus less power is "lost" 3.) As for the "cleaner" burning aspect...yes, higher flame/combustion temperatures will effect the "completeness" of the combustion. (The more complete the combustion the less likelyhood of carbon deposits.) However, IMHO, there would be more effect on carbon deposits due to the use of anti-carbon deposit additives, more complete mixing of the fuel/air mixture in the carbarator/cylinder, and differing chemical composition then from simply the temperature effect of higher octane fuels. Cheers DrPyro (now you know why I use this nick) rhawki - point of clarification....the higher octane fuels are not "compression" ignited like diesels and they will ignite if you toss a match in a pool. There could potentially be a few "specially" designed fuels that do have this characteristic, but i would prefer not to test them ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOOMIS914 Posted July 26, 2001 Share Posted July 26, 2001 Dr Pyro----Couldn't have said it better but I was trying to keep it simple considering so far off topic. I too would not want to try to put a match out in any type of higher octane fuel for fear of the obvious... I have to believe that the higher the octane the higher the Vapor pressure (VOC's). Which is to say that the fuel will evapoarte or try to change from a liquid to a gas much faster. Example: ACETONE: Anyway enough said. ------------------ My main Klipsch system: KLF-30's Bi-wired KLF-C7 KSP-S6's KSW-15 Front Sub KSW-100 Rear Sub Monster cable 14 gauge in-wall cable Audioquest interconnects Niles SPS-4 speaker switch box Niles wall plates Niles in-wall volume controls Marantz SR-8000 Toshiba SD-4205 5 DVD changer Pioneer PDF-1007 301-CD changer Mitsubishi 35" TV Mitsubishi VCR Pioneer VSX-608 Multi-room amp for Outdoor deck Polk All-weather AW2's deck speakers Panamax DBS-8 Surge Protector Klipsch IC-525's in Master Bath 13" Sony Wega in Master Bath 1 Lava Lamp for Ambience Fridge full of beer and plenty of Don Julio, Jagermeister and Jim Beam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2K Posted July 27, 2001 Share Posted July 27, 2001 HOLD IT! I'm not finished yet! I've got a Chevy S10 with the CPI Vortec V-6.Had problems with the EGR valve stopping up on long trips(to neighboring States to buy Klipsch speakers),read hot,and was told by several experts and one Dealer(not an expert,of course) to stop using the high octane gasoline as it combusted at a lower temperature and did not give a complete burn.Dealer said it was a known problem and said the solution was to remove the intake and "vat it". Now for the kicker.I know a fellow that drives for a living and for several years has used and recommended a fuel additive by LUCAS.Remembered his suggestions and bought some Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant.Called those folks out in California and explained the problem and the guy states simply "yeah,that'll fix it,and quickly.69 miles later the truck runs as good as new(94 model).I've never believed in or used additives,but I do now.Remember the name.You'll hear about them if you haven't before. I left out some details because I realize some of you aren't as knowledgeable on the subject as myself and DrPyro. That's my story,and I'm stickin to it!Oh yeah,saw a 1968 Chevelle SS 396 convertible (lt blue/white)on the way home this morning with a pair of Heresy's in the back.The guy said the CAR was for sale, but the Heresy's weren't. Didn't somone ask about speaker wire or something? Keith Good choice vjkharat! Hope you don't get any bad gas! This message has been edited by talktoKeith on 07-27-2001 at 09:33 AM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOOMIS914 Posted July 27, 2001 Share Posted July 27, 2001 Keith, I surrender at this point as I am not an expert but purely an enthusiast and I am sure we could find the right forum on the net that would settle this thing once and for all.....All in good fun of course. Now as far as the '68 Chevelle with the Heresy's in the back....THAT IS A PACKAGE DEAL....For the drivers sake, I surely hope those speakers weren't wired up to the car!!!! ------------------ My main Klipsch system: KLF-30's Bi-wired KLF-C7 KSP-S6's KSW-15 Front Sub KSW-100 Rear Sub Monster cable 14 gauge in-wall cable Audioquest interconnects Niles SPS-4 speaker switch box Niles wall plates Niles in-wall volume controls Marantz SR-8000 Toshiba SD-4205 5 DVD changer Pioneer PDF-1007 301-CD changer Mitsubishi 35" TV Mitsubishi VCR Pioneer VSX-608 Multi-room amp for Outdoor deck Polk All-weather AW2's deck speakers Panamax DBS-8 Surge Protector Klipsch IC-525's in Master Bath 13" Sony Wega in Master Bath 1 Lava Lamp for Ambience Fridge full of beer and plenty of Don Julio, Jagermeister and Jim Beam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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