htxpert Posted July 19, 2001 Share Posted July 19, 2001 Hi All After reading the various tweeks posted on this site and visiting a few fellow Klipsch Head's homes for calibrating purposes I have decided to post a mini how to for rack cable management. Proper cable management for racked equiptmemt is essential for good performance.If I had a choice I would choose a rack that had "el cheapo" interconnects and wire that was cable managed over one that has super high end wires that is a tangle of mess. Todays modern racks usually offer cable management of some sort, you know the kind where you can run your wires inside the rack or through a single hole in the rear,is it wise to use these? You be the judge. The absolute best way to run your cables from your components is to have four individual "trunks" of wires all separated by the widest possible margin. One trunk for powercords, one trunk for speaker wire, one trunk for video interconnects and digital cables and one trunk for regular interconnects. If this is not possible at least separate the power cables from the rest of the wires. Running an interconnect or video cable down the length of a power cord is the worst thing you can do. Power cords should not be close to the other wires and cables and if at all possible try to avoid crossing wires and cables with powercords. If you must cross power cords with wires and cables do so at a 90 degree angle. I also recomend using a small length of rubber hose to further insulate the wire at the crossing point. A handy tool to have when running cables or verifying if your power cables are emmiting or leaking "RF" through the insulation is a cheap $2 compass. Simply take the compass and place it next to the power cord, does the compass indicator move? If it does this indicates there is leakage from the power cord disurbing the magnetic field of the compass. Now what do you think would happen if you placed a interconnect or wire next to that power cord? Hmmmmmm maybe a hum or buzz? How about video noise on your monitor? Can you imagine what would happen if you ran a cable or wire next to it down that fancy cable management column? Your Cables and wires should also have subtle bends and lay relaxed, try not to kink your cables or make a short cable reach when it's not long enough. Tie straps are a good way to keep your Cables and wires in their prospective trunks,but don't zip them too tight just enough to keep your trunks together. If you can afford it Velcro tie straps are better, these are available at your local Pro audio shop. If your power cords, cables and wires are too long figure 8 them instead of binding them in a circle. Thats all for now, stay tuned for part II where we will discuss polarity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Phillips Posted July 19, 2001 Share Posted July 19, 2001 Well Ht,I do just what you are talking about,have for years. But I found a(to me)better way than tie wrapping wire togethere. Anyone out there ever heard of Panduet(spelling?)anyway you can get it at your local electrical wholesaler.It's just a trough with slits down both sides.You can get these things in all kinds of widths and lengths.It has a cover that snaps over it when done and plenty of mounting holes.Not for everyone?My cabinets are wood and these things can't be seen from the front. You can usually see this kind of thing in any type of electrical cabinet for controlers and large HVAC units and what not. Just somethin' I wanted to add. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewzter Posted July 19, 2001 Share Posted July 19, 2001 Panduit.... Officially, "Panduit Wire Duct." Panduit is the mfr. Basically, "conduit" made for computer network patch panels that's not a permanent channel for wire like conduit is. Like he said, it's got a cover that snaps on, and if the wire must leave the channel at a place besides one of the ends, you can just leave one of the "slots" out of the cover. A great suggestion, Steve - I hadn't thought of using this for HT. Am moving to a new house soon, so I'll definitely be picking some of this stuff up! ------------------ Front: dbx Soundfield V - 15" woofer, 8" mid, ribbon tweet, 3.25" mid & dome tweet on top Center: KLF C7 Rear Surround: Polk f/x bipole/dipole Amp: Yamaha RX-V990 100x3; 25x2 DVD: Yamaha DVD S795 (built-in DD Processor) CD: Yamaha CDC 575 5-Disc VCR: Toshiba M752 6-head TV: Mitsubishi 40" Tube DirecTV Sony Playstation w/ s-vid & RCA to V990 for awesome gaming picture & sound! This message has been edited by drewzter on 07-19-2001 at 02:17 PM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2K Posted July 19, 2001 Share Posted July 19, 2001 What about this:If you're using a vertical audio rack, place your receiver or preamp and other components lower than your surge protector/conditioner.Your power cords run up,and everything else run down.Plus the power cords are then nowhere near your speaker wires.Does that make ant sense? Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewzter Posted July 20, 2001 Share Posted July 20, 2001 quote: Originally posted by talktoKeith: What about this:If you're using a vertical audio rack, place your receiver or preamp and other components lower than your surge protector/conditioner.Your power cords run up,and everything else run down.Plus the power cords are then nowhere near your speaker wires.Does that make any sense? Keith Only if all cords will reach w/o using extension cords. You'd still run into the "ugliness" factor, though, without some kind of channel or duct... ------------------ Front: dbx Soundfield V - 15" woofer, 8" mid, ribbon tweet, 3.25" mid & dome tweet on top Center: KLF C7 Rear Surround: Polk f/x bipole/dipole Amp: Yamaha RX-V990 100x3; 25x2 DVD: Yamaha DVD S795 (built-in DD Processor) CD: Yamaha CDC 575 5-Disc VCR: Toshiba M752 6-head TV: Mitsubishi 40" Tube DirecTV Sony Playstation w/ s-vid & RCA to V990 for awesome gaming picture & sound! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2K Posted July 20, 2001 Share Posted July 20, 2001 Well I guess you will have had to think about that before set-up,huh.Another handy tip,electrical appliances need electricity and speakers need speaker wire.Plan on it. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htxpert Posted July 20, 2001 Author Share Posted July 20, 2001 Hi All Keep thoes suggjestions comming! Great info! Split Loom or sprial Loom is also a nice way to hide wires and is available in Black,Blue,Red,Yellow and white and sizes from 3/8" to 1-1/2" Also the rule of thumb for placing gear in a verticall rack is:Amps,Receivers,Power Line Conditioners and High heat generating equipment is placed on the lowest shelfs all transport driven devices on the upper shelfs.The reasoning is that ambient temperature is lower at the lower shelfs( because heat rises )making your components run cooler,and the second reason is that your clients dont have to bend over to load transport devices.On a nother note did you know that Glass is an excellent at retaning heat! Thoese nice thick glass doors on racks are very good heat retainers If you have these and dont have any tikes running about,you may want to leave them open.If you have to keep them closed a 110v silent fan availabe at Rat Shack may be a good investment. L8TR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tenhet Posted July 20, 2001 Share Posted July 20, 2001 How far apart should speaker wires be kept from electrical wires? Also interconnects? Scott ------------------ Front - Quartets (Walnut oil) Center - Academy (Black) Rear - Optimus (haha) soon to be replaced!!! Receiver - Marantz SR-680 (upgraded from Denon AVR-810) CD - Denon DCM-320 Tape - Denon DRW-850 (soon to be back in the box) MD - Sony MDS-JE330 DVD - coming soon Sharp 27" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iXtreme Posted July 20, 2001 Share Posted July 20, 2001 I have a verticle rack for my HT grae. I ditched the smoked glass doors... went to home depot and bought some of that board that you find on the back of cabinets. Cut the center out to make a 1-1/2" frame of wood with the center missing. I took some black standard material from wal mart and covered the wood frames. Black front with the breatheability factor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.