Piranha Posted October 31, 2004 Share Posted October 31, 2004 I know this has probably been asked before, but can someone tell me if it is a good idea to use Murphy's Wood Soap prior to applying Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) to their Walnut Oiled finish? I am asking about this for speakers that have not been oiled in years. I have seen some suggest using BLO that has been partially thinned with turpentine. Will this achieve nice results? I thought garymd had used Murphy's on his Cornwall's and liked how they came out. But I am not sure if they're an oiled finish and whether that would make a difference. I am pretty clueless about this even after what I have read. That has only served to confuse me some more. Any and all help or suggestions are greatly appreciated. HELP!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted October 31, 2004 Share Posted October 31, 2004 I don't know about anyone else but I would be affraid to use anything water based to clean veneer for two reasons in one. I wouldn't want to raise the grain requireing a heavy sanding possibly burning through the thin laminate. Others might know more (might? probably) but I would use thinned BLO as a cleaner rubbing it on and wiping with a lint free cloth immediately. Let it dry for 24 hours then apply an undiluted coat of BLO letting it soak in before rubbing. Let's see what the pro's say, I'm interested too. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piranha Posted October 31, 2004 Author Share Posted October 31, 2004 I also vaguely remember reading something about using acetone prior to oiling them with BLO?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay481985 Posted October 31, 2004 Share Posted October 31, 2004 why not try some denatured alcohol or mineral spirits? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Good2BHome Posted October 31, 2004 Share Posted October 31, 2004 ---------------- On 10/31/2004 5:24:43 PM Piranha wrote: I also vaguely remember reading something about using acetone prior to oiling them with BLO?? ---------------- Do a Search in this forum for "Oiling my New Cornwalls" as the title. It will answer the questions you have ask. One caution: using acetone shold be done in a WELL ventilated area, as in a garage with the garage door open! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiob Posted October 31, 2004 Share Posted October 31, 2004 Dont use anything water based, as Rick pointed out, it will raise the grain and require sanding that will thin the veneer. Do not use a thinner that is too hot, such as laquer thinner, MEK, acitone, etc.they can loosen the adhesive that the veneer is stuck on with. If they are dirty, lightly sand them with a Med/fine sanding sponge or 220 grit sand paper, wipe them down with enamel reducer,then dry immediatly with clean paper towels. Apply 3-4 coats of tounge oil, read the directons on the can for application process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piranha Posted November 1, 2004 Author Share Posted November 1, 2004 Thanks for the replies everyone. I am hoping HDBRbuilder will chime in here with his expert opinion as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piranha Posted November 1, 2004 Author Share Posted November 1, 2004 Thanks for the replies everyone. I am hoping HDBRbuilder will chime in here with his expert opinion as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 Piranha, Andy is busy packing his stuff for his deployment to Kuwait and possibly Iraq with his Guard unit. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 If you want to clean the wood prior to BLO application, I would go with a straight turpentine (as a de-greasing solvent) and wipe-down with dry rags to dry. I would let it sit overnight so it can completely evaporate and "breath". Then apply BLO. Actually, there are alot of different ways to "skin a cat". DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 WAIT! I misunderstood, if the cabinets are ALREADY linseed-oiled, turpentine will "strip" it. Probably not what you want. Straight BLO is what you want to use to add a protective layer to what you've got. DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Good2BHome Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 ---------------- On 11/1/2004 12:18:25 AM Piranha wrote: Thanks for the replies everyone. I am hoping HDBRbuilder will chime in here with his expert opinion as well. ---------------- May I suggest again, the thread in this Forum titled "Oiling my New Cornwalls" has significant input by HDBRbuilder on the questions you are asking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
analogman Posted November 2, 2004 Share Posted November 2, 2004 One part boiled linseed oil One part turpentine One part white vinegar Mix well(I use an old "Dawn" bottle) You will be glad you did Analogman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
analogman Posted November 3, 2004 Share Posted November 3, 2004 In case I was not clear, my recipe is for cleaning, to be followed with the "straight" boiled linseed oil. Analogman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dstrachan Posted November 3, 2004 Share Posted November 3, 2004 I just re-finished my walnut Fortes that had not been done in quite awhile. I simply applied BLO with super fine steel wool as the applicator. All old water stains etc came out beautifully and any roughness or raised grain is smoothed out. Came out like glass and have a wonderful sheen. Remember, you have to let the BLO sit for a few minutes only and then wipe off the excess and buff with a soft cloth. Mine look like new!! With veneer, any chemical cleaners run the risk of damaging the glue or stripping the oils from the wood. Water based cleaners will raise the grain. With veneer you have precious little wood to be sanding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted November 3, 2004 Share Posted November 3, 2004 I have some comments. I'd only seen Murphy's in the grocery store, and passed it by. Looking at the website the "Murphy's Oil for Wood" is meant to be mixed with water. So it may well be just some 100 year old detergent formula. They are selling it for use on wood with a finish. There is a warning that it is not to be used on unfinished wood. In my view, our Heritage "olded" walnut has practically no finish, at least after a few years. This is why they are so suseptable to water stains. Any water does not bead. You certainly don't want to use a water based cleaner. I'd point out that stuff like "lemon oil" is just mineral oil with some lemon perfume. This is to say just like very light motor oil or baby oil. So it can be good for cleaning. I've used it with 400 wet or dry and some grung, mars and stains do come out. It looks shiney for a while. Eventually the oil evaporates any you're back to original problem. But maybe this makes it a proper gentle cleaner before applying something more substantial. From what I've read, BLO and variations are a classic finishes. But the goal of all finishes (BLO too) is to have something which flows on as a liquid, and then hardens. (Mineral oil can't harden.) BLO is the vehicle in old paint formulations too . . . it is just that pigment is added. Tung oil is another vegitable product which can build a thin finish. But watch out, much of what is sold a "Tung" is tung with some regular varnish type of products. From what I read, modern wiping varnishes are mostly thinned down modern varnishes. I've used various wipe on finishes on walnut with good results. Minwax and Formby. The goal was to build up a substantial surface and with several, thin applications, they work well. The following I'm not quite sure of. When we sand, we're breaking the surface cells of the structure of the wood. It seems to me that none of these oils can penetrate much beyond a few cells in the structure of the wood. Nor can shellac or lacquer. So it is not like the veneer gets "deep down protection". Any finish may adhere well because it does get down a few cells. On the other hand, water does cause damage because the cellulose cell walls bloat from the hydration, and pass water to lower cells. I'm not sure why the cell thinks, water yes, oil no. It is probably related to the nature of the cells to transfer water in the plant in the first place. Woods have their own oils which may be there to regualate the natural process when alive. I.e. prevent destruction by over bloating. Therefore, any protection is basically from the film on top. If the wood has some pores, you might still have something other than a glass like finish. None the less, protection can't be accompished with a thin finish. I like Scotchbright as a scrubber too because there is no metal. Steel wool shreds. Iron (the major part of steel) is not good on oak. Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Warren Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 The best way to "clean" them is to put the palm sander to them and take the veneer down. When they are a uniformly colored, hit them with the air line and then re-oil using 2 parts boiled linseed oil to one part terpentine (or mineral spirits). Let the mixture sit on a radiator (or leave the mix out in the sun) before you apply it. If for some reason, you must clean the surfaces, a mixture of Fels Naptha soap flakes (about 1 tablespoon) mixed with a pint of terpentine is effective at cutting thru grease, grime and Tung-oil. Wipe with straight terpentine after cleaning. It will lighten the surface so be prepared to re-oil. Very little, if any grain lift. Terpentine or mineral spirits are the only solutions that should be used on wood surfaces. No water-based, no "lemon-oils", no "Murphys", no "Formby's", etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piranha Posted November 4, 2004 Author Share Posted November 4, 2004 Thank you for the replies. This is some very helpful information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.