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what value pot for DIY volume control?


Tom Mobley

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I've got a TEAC digital amp coming, also have Sony 333ES CD-SACD player. Something tells me it going to be a little on the loud side through Khorns with no attenuation.:) I'm building a small volume control, basically four RCA jacks and stereo pot. Question is, what value for the pot? Seems like 50K, 100K, 250K and 500K ane the usual suspects, but which one to start? I'd rather err on the side of too quiet rather than too loud to begin with, don't want to freak the wife and all that.....

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My Creek OBH-10 uses a 50K control

I also have a DIY passive volume control using Nobel dual(stereo) 50K controls one for left and right channels. This way I could wire it as a 25K(wired in parallel)or use just one section for 50K. When I used it with a tube CAL D/A converter the 50K sounded best. A lot of tube equipment would probably work best with a higher impedance load like 50K and up.

mike1.gif

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Thanks, guys. sounds good. question: the TEAC is a 3 channel amp, got any ideas how to make my two-bit attenuator grow a third channel output? I have Khorns with center Belle, right now I have an HF-81 with the center wired across the 4-ohm positive taps. Works OK, but somehow I'm doubting the TEAC will be happy wired up that way. Although, my '60 Khorns are labeled as 16 ohms. Any bright ideas on deriving a center channel?

Sheesh, does any body even know if it needs 3 inputs? Maybe it's getting the third output internally?

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Tom, The Teac has three discrete inputs and three pots in the rear. Build yourself a PWK box with jsut the resistor bridge as you already have the level pots required. Then if you want to get fancy, use a pair of 100K Ohm alps pots available on eBay for $19.95/pr You could gang one for L/R and use 1/2 of the other for center or just use 1/2 of each for L/R and set the center level using the pot in the Teac.

I'll show you mine....

PWKBox.jpg

All 22K Ohm 5% resistors.

Rick

post-12829-13819263786828_thumb.jpg

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Rick,

That PWK box is confusing to me. In the original in DfH I see two resistors, in yours there seems to be a few extra? Also, the three connectors on the back, is the center one for both grounds? I don't see any pot in yours, is that because it was built strictly for the teac that already has pots?

'course, I had to take a couple percoset today after getting the cast off my leg, so I might just be stupid. :)

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yeppers. the very same. You can swipe a line level input from a pair of speaker wires. Whenever I get the foot surgery deal behind me I'm going to start offering those boxes. I could use the same enclosure for both types. I went and looked in my DfH, found that one you're using there. They're really not that much different.

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Tom:

I've always liked linear taper pots on passive volume controls (like passive preamps), and that's essentially what a minibox is, as you know. Linear tapers are usually used as sort of variable resistive voltage dividers, which once set, is what's needed with the center channel. Linear tapers will be 'hotter' on lower rotations; log or audio tapers raise or lower the volume in a way that seems to match the rotation of the control.

The few boxes I built were of the speaker level input type. In either case, I think the Teac is a GREAT way to use the minibox.

Have fun with it,

Erik

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Oh: I forgot the value you asked about. Lower values might be better in my opinion -- 10K, 25k, 50K. -- than something like 500K. 100K should work well, too. What is the input impedance of the amplifier it's being used with? Is this the Eico? Most of those vintage amps had quite high input impedances, such as .5meg or so.

Let us know what you think!

Erik

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Erik (with a K)

I have no pre-amp, but do have that Sony 330ES and will have a TEAC in a day or so. Just wanted to build a passive volume control so I could run it without a pre-amp. Then go to thinking about the Belle I built and the fact that the TEAC is a 3-channel amp out of the box. Now I need a volume control and a minibox. I'm going to try to put it all in one little enclosure, not a big deal but really the first time I've tried to scratch-build anything. Always before I was following along some known design or fixing something broken. Fortunately it's simple, hopefully I can get it wired up without crossing the grounds somewhere or something.

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