soundog Posted August 26, 2001 Share Posted August 26, 2001 It was recently suggested to me that a good way to dampen the mid horns in Heritage speakers was to coat them with a thick mix of sand and latex paint. Anyone had any experience with this? Better than or inferior to dynamat?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted August 26, 2001 Share Posted August 26, 2001 I have never heard of horns or speakers dampened with sand and paint, see the thread on using rope caulk http://216.37.9.58/ubb/Forum16/HTML/000197.html ------------------ Cornwalls, Bottlehead 2A3 Paramours, Dynaco II, Rotel, KSW200 & LF10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J M O N Posted August 26, 2001 Share Posted August 26, 2001 Sand and Latex paint. My gut reaction is that this won't provide any dampening help (or very little at best). Of course, I haven't tried this, but I can't see how it would do much, besides make a mess. If you wan't something cheap, I think silicone will work very well. However, it probably won't be easily reversible if you don't like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clint Phare Posted August 27, 2001 Share Posted August 27, 2001 Sand and Latex paint sounds to me as a attempt to mimmic the old Altec cement filled horns. I also think they did it with tar and something else maybe asbestoes? Anyways, I think rope caulk would be the way to go. Latex probally won't do squat for deadening the horn. ------------------ Just who is Dylan's Jokerman anyways? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBrennan Posted August 28, 2001 Share Posted August 28, 2001 Sounddog--Lots of things work well to damp horns, I've talked to hornys who report good results with sand and paint, several layers, this would seem to work on the add mass and lower the resonance theory, if you lower the resonance to below the crossover point it will not be excited. Rope caulk and non-hardening modeling clay work well as do sand-filled boxes and auto undercoating. Some guys wrap innertubes around horns. Sometimes it's more where the material is applied than how much, Altec 511Bs respond very well to treating the "lips" and just a little on the body. And some horns don't need anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundog Posted August 28, 2001 Author Share Posted August 28, 2001 Tom- If anyone would know you would what would you use on the plastic mids of my Khorns and on the metal mids of my LaScalas to dampen them? Thanks I really respect you opinion. HT-1 Klipsch Heritage System (music oriented) Klipschorns w/ ALK crossover upgrades 4 Klipsch LaScalas (surround & rears) Heresy components in custom cabinet /monitor stand (center) Panasonic 32 Monitor W/ component video input 3 Sony CX400 CD changers Sony CX-200 CD Changer MSB Technology Digital Director w/ jitter reduction Nirvis DXS digital controller (auto selection of whatever changer is playing) Nirvis Slink-e computer interface Nirvis jukebox software (downloads net cd info, album covers& lyrics- programs & controls changers searchable for songs, artists, albums). Nirvis CDJ (CD Jukebox Software) Monster 5000 Power Center Sony Viao Laptop Computer Sony S530D DVD Player Sony 798HF VCR Sony XA1ES CD player Sherwood HX-PRO dual cassette deck Dynaco PAS4 stereo preamp W/ Tesla Tube upgrades (also outputs to HT2) Technics SL3300 DD Turntable w/ Shure cartridges Outlaw 1050 6.1 A/V Receiver (Dynaco inputs directly to amp section) Perpetual Technologies P1A Digital Correction Engine (jitter reduction, 16 to 24 bit conversion, future speaker frequency correction, and room acoustic correction ) Perpetual Technologies P3A DAC ( plus 44.1k to 96k CD upsampling) Klipsch KSW-15 sub (for DVD LFEs ) Klipsch LF-10 sub Phillips Pronto TS2000 Programmable Remote Scientific American Explorer 2000 Home Communications Terminal X10 computerized lighting controls Radio Shack Wireless Remote Control Extender Cables: Onix , MSB, Monster, AR., Iced Purple, RS Gold Monster Bi-wire speaker cables.(Khorns) HT#2 Klipsch THX System (movie oriented) 4 Klipsch KT-LCR THX Speakers 4 Klipsch RS-3s (side & rear surround) 2 Klipsch KT-DS THX Surrounds 10 Linaem Tweeters Outlaw 1050 6.1 A/V Receiver (Dynaco inputs directly to amp section) Monster 3000 Power Center Sony X111 ES CD Player Sony 775HF VCR Sony STR-G3 (supplemental amplification for extra speakers) Toshiba 61 High Definition TV Sony NS700 Progressive Scan DVD Toshiba 4205 DVD/ CD Changer Klipsch SW-12II Sub Klipsch LF-10 sub Sony AV2100 remote Scientific American Explorer 2000 Home Communications Terminal X10 Computerized Lighting Vibrapods (vibration isolation) RS Gold , Monster, Iced Purple, AR Cables Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted August 28, 2001 Share Posted August 28, 2001 Dynamat works well and is easy enough to apply (warm it first) to the metal horns. Rope caulk would work just as well, I think. I would use rope caulk on the fiberglass K-horn horns. Getting dynamat down into that waffle pattern would NOT be worth the work. I used Dynamat on my La Scalas' aluminium squawker horns and rope caulk on the tweeter horn. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBrennan Posted August 28, 2001 Share Posted August 28, 2001 Sounddog--I'm keen on non-hardening modeling clay or rope-caulk, they're cheap and easy to work. Make sure the horns are screwed down tight to the baffle, the mechanical connection between the horn and baffle is vital in damping. Hey, what about an oil-bath, using the horns surrounded by oil? Or Jello maybe. :-) You know, I know a fella with a home-brew EV horn rig who made his tractrix mid horns out of foamcore (styrofoam with palsticized paper covering) board about 1/2" thick, the pieces are pinned and glued together and have stout ribs of foamcore on the back. Things sound GREAT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drobo1 Posted August 31, 2001 Share Posted August 31, 2001 Having tried both the rope caulk and Dynamat materials for damping my La Scala horns, I prefer rope caulk. It's cheaper, easier to work with, and I think it actually damps better. Part of my preference comes from the fact that even though I heated the Dynamat and put it on with pressure and even a roller, it eventually did not remain adhered to my squawker. This problem might be due to our very low humidity here in Colorado. drobo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Garrison Posted September 1, 2001 Share Posted September 1, 2001 Drobo, Do you have the plastic or metal horns on the squawkers? I applied Dynamat to my metal horns, after cutting it to shape and heating it in an over until it was too hot to hold and very, veeeeerrrrrryyyyyy saggy, and now I couldn't get the stuff off the horns with a hammer and chisel. Also, was this the old, original, icky brown asphault based Dynamat (which I preferred), or the newer, high tech, silver backed polymer variety (which I found didn't work as well)? ------------------ Music is art Audio is engineering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drobo1 Posted September 4, 2001 Share Posted September 4, 2001 Ray, I used the old brown Dynamat but I don't think I got it heated to the point you describe. I used a heat gun after applying it to my metal squawkers. The oven trick must be the way to go. Anyway, I am very happy with the performance of the rope caulk. drobo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Bey Posted September 5, 2001 Share Posted September 5, 2001 I anticipated problems with the dynamat and so used the miracle fixit material that Red Green recommends: duct tape. Wrapped the horn (and dynamat) with layers and layers of good old duct tape. Of course there is no connection between the horn and the tape, but the tape prevents the dynamat from sagging and detaching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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