KungFuNat Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 so i was on PS-audios website earlier and they have a page called the "humbusters". it asks you a few questions about your setup, then takes you through several steps to try to diagnose the problem. after the usual questions, it asked me to disconnect one of my interconnects from the pre-amp and leave the other plugged in... when i did this, the buzz in the speakers was gone!!!! at that point it told me i have a ground loop between my componants, and i needed to either switch to XLR cables, or make a pair of interconnects with one cable that has the ground disconnected... my sauldering skills are OK, but ive never built a pair of interconnects before. can someone tell me how i can butcher an old pair of interconnects i have lying around? or perhaps someone can hook me up with a new pair for a reasonable price... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 I'm a bit surprised that they are saying to disconnect only one ground of a stereo pair. I'd think you have to disconnect the ground of both. Actually I've never had this sort of problem so I don't speak from experience. On the other hand I spent my youth fooling with wires. Also, let me make an alternate suggestion. It is to connect the chassis of the two units together with wire to strap the two to the same reference. You can start with an allegator clip lead to try this. But, in any event, it may indeed be easier to butcher an old set of connectors. Or indeed buy a new set from RS. Don't get the gold plated stuff with thick cables. I say that because the work may be more difficult. I just bought a set of cheap stuff from RS for about $5.00. I'd use a utility knife. You should be able to shave or wittle (sp) off the outer insulation at one end for a lenght of about one inch. That will expose the braided shield. Then you'll have to cut the braided shield, snipping away the individual wires. This will leave the inner conductor and its insulator intact. Let us all know how things go. Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KungFuNat Posted March 31, 2005 Author Share Posted March 31, 2005 does the shield usually doubble as the ground? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scriven Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 ---------------- On 3/31/2005 12:46:50 AM NatGun wrote: does the shield usually doubble as the ground? ---------------- Yes. The usual trick is to connect the ground at one end and not at the other. If the devices are on separate electrical circuits you should try moving them to the same circuit. Running a grounding wire (a piece of 16 gauge or larger) between them may also help. Gil, I am sure that they are referring to removing the grounding from the cable not just from one channel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryC Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 Scriven, where ya' been??? Going to Indy this year? Nat -- sorry to see you're still battling this. You asked if the shield is the ground -- but, did you mean "ground" like a third conductor, or did you mean "ground" as in the other side of the signal carrier? Obviously important, since you lose the signal if you cut the shield on an interconnect that only has a single internal conductor for the (misnamed) "hot" and a braided shield doing double duty as a shield and carrier for the other side of the signal. To cut the shield at one end, you need to have the type with two internal conductors. This was discussed in your earlier thread. Radio Shack carries a Monster Cable "Interlink 250" for only $25. The description sounds like exactly what you want: "This cable is an affordable upgrade for even basic systems, and it features a 100% foil shield and twisted-pair DUAL balanced conductors for low-noise music reproduction." The price seems reasonable and you don't have to pay shipping or start cutting up a pair of interconnects. This type of connector will have the foil shield grounded at one end but not both, which is similar to what PS Audio appeared to suggest. It's supposed to be best to have the foil connected at the downstream end, and Monster Cable I/C's I've seen have little arrows that point in that direction. Good luck! Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KungFuNat Posted March 31, 2005 Author Share Posted March 31, 2005 i have a pair of twisted pair interconnects now, and those dont help either... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOSValves Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 I could see disconnect the ground from one end of one interconnect but not from both ends. The cable would have no shielding if you omit ground from both ends. Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOSValves Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 Nat, Have you lifted every component in you system from the house ground. What I mean is bypassed ALL 3 wires in your system? Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KungFuNat Posted March 31, 2005 Author Share Posted March 31, 2005 i used a cheater plug on my power-amp cable, and unplugged all other commponants.. the hum was still present. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeV Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 I had a ground Loop that was caused by my cable TV connection. All I do is disconnect the cable TV when I want to watch a DVD or listen to music. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonfyr Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 Generally, an easy fix for avoiding hum due to RF path ground loops is to float the shield on the end of the interconnect on the component end relative to the preamp, and to use the preamp as the reference in a star pattern. Does this make sense? Simply do not solder the shield to the connector on the end of the interconnect that plugs into the component being attached to the preamp. The shield is soldered to the connector on the end plugged into the preamp. By the way, this is often the (ONLY legitimate!) basis for some cables being 'directional'!, and it indicates which end to be plugged into the preamp! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryC Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 Dragon, I think that's what I tried to describe above. Your method would reverse the "conventional" method of having the little arrows point downstream, I've never had problems in doing that. The $25 Radio Shack I/C is all prepared as you describe with a foil soldered at only one end, and no reason at all not to try it both ways. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonfyr Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 I think we have run into the proverbial definitions issue, or when does "no" mean "no"! or up/down! I am not sure which way their arrows point (I will have to call Monster's marketing division!;-) ), but the end of the cable with both conductors connected would be attached to the preamp. The end of the cable with the 'lifted' non-terminated conductor would be at the 'other' attached component end. How's that for techno-speak!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonfyr Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 If they refer to the "downstream" end as that to where the signal 'flows' - referring to the preamp, I would agree! Fancy that, me agreeing to something, let alone Monster! Will miracles never cease! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryC Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 Darn, I had a bad link above to Radio Shack -- here it is: Monster Cable "Interlink 250". Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonfyr Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 If you are averse to making your own, I am sure they would work. One additional option you might consider are the Dayton brand cables sold through Parts Express. They tend to be the least expensive well made high quality component cables that I have found. Anyone else know of high quality pre-made interconnects that don't feature boutique pricing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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