chacodude Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 Have a pair of KG5.5s for several years now (original owner). Driving with a pair of Bottlehead Paramour 2A3 amps and FP2 tube Pre (also Doc B.'s). Have been so busy working on the front end it's time to work on the speaks! Can anyone provide the upgrade path and schematic for crossover? Thanks to all, Andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 You don't need a schematic, the caps and resistors are clearly marked with their values. Just replace the Mylars with some Auricaps or Kimbers, and the resistors with some Mills non-inductive Types. You can find Kimbers and Mills at www.partsexpress.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STL Posted June 1, 2005 Share Posted June 1, 2005 The attached PDF file should save you the trouble of having to open them up (before you're ready to actually replace parts). Klipsch_KG5.5_network.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgennett1 Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 What about new pcb's to accomodate the larger parts? Any good sources? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frzninvt Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 Try Popbumper (aka Chris Munson) he custom designed and built some PCB's for a number of the PCB network based Klipsch speakers, not sure if it will work for the KG 5.5 you would have to ask him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STL Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 Remember you can use both sides of the PCB for parts (even though Klipsh only uses one side). I'm planning on using the existing PCB myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgennett1 Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 How about doing away with the PCB all together, like some of the ALK's I've seen photos of here. I would like to keep the stock xovers intact, just in case. The Madisound generic 12db 2-ways look like they might work fine and afford plenty of room. Any advantage to using air core over irons for the woofer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STL Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 With the HP section of the xover being 3rd order, you might be better off spending another $1 and getting the 18dB 2-way versions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgennett1 Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 Glad I asked! I thought I was dealing with a 12db 2nd order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STL Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 Take a look at the attachement I posted on June 1st (in this very thread). You'll see the LP is 2nd order, but the HP is 3rd order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgennett1 Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 I made a copy- thanks! What is that resistor with the slash through it? Is that the tweeter protection thingie? Oh- can a 10w mills be used in the place of the 5w resistor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STL Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 That resistor with the slash through it is indeed the tweeter protection thingy, and according to another thread it can be replaced with a 1-ohm resistor. The 10w mills should be okay as long as it 2 ohm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 That "thingy" is called a Polyswitch. That's O.K., there was a time not too long ago that I didn't know what in the heck it was called either. Please make sure you measure the DCR of the original coils before seeking replacements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgennett1 Posted June 12, 2005 Share Posted June 12, 2005 Sounds good so far. I happened across the polyswitch in my parts express catalog. Not sure if it will stay or go. I have to say rope caulking the horns did make an improvement - that plus some minor placement changes snapped the imaging right into focus like never before. You one thing I noticed about the stock xovers is there's one iron core inductor in the L1 spot... and what looks like a capacitor for L2. I need to look again more carefully- I guess? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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