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Decorator Heresey- PIX ARE UP!


colterphoto1

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I'd say that all the minor mods really helped. I'm not sure about the vinyl paint I put on those old crusty woofers, but it sounds tight and sharp. I might be onto something with that paint trick.

That foam you gave me was perfect for the interiors and I did the rope caulk on the mid horn.

Had them in the garage on top of the LSI's rocking the neighborhood this afternoon. Then brought them inside and have them hooked up on top of the CW mains right now. They do look AWESOME, it's so cool to see inside and see the drivers, except they're so BLACK and with the edge paint, it's just like three black holes in the cabinet with the sweetest sounds pouring out.

Ok, maybe they're keepers....

Michael

I sure hope you keep them Michael. I can think of OH, lets say, about, maybe, sorta, uuuuhhhhhhhhhhhhh ....50 or 60 other items in that garage that should go first.

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Got Steely Dan cranking outta dem Dec Heresies right now. THe left side is on the ColterComparator with my original Cornwall and LS. H is much toppier, but then again, I've got him up in the air 3' on top of CW and away from back wall. I can see how these could be very cool surrounds or presence speakers in their current position.

Nice puncy bass, but it is somewhat lacking. It's amazing to hear the difference in sensitivity between CW and H. WHen I punch up 7ch stereo, the back CW's come on and totally drown out the little H's. But they do sound sweet. Think I'll leave em up for a while, them put em on some makeshift bases (ahem TODD!) until the rest of that walnut veneer arrives.

I have no idea of the final resting place for these babies. They are cuter and more solid than my other H's.

I was just taking a peek inside the pair that I got from Tom Brennen in Chicago. They have the K53, newer K22 woofers, E2 xovers, and the 1/2 thick back panel. I was planning on using this pair for my Teak reveneering sample before I start in on my CW's.

The decorators from Todd have 3/4 backs, K55 mids. I like their construction and parts makeup better.

Does anyone out there have a favorite Heresy combination?

Michael

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I was just taking a peek inside the pair that I got from Tom Brennen in Chicago. They have the K53, newer K22 woofers, E2 xovers, and the 1/2 thick back panel. I was planning on using this pair for my Teak reveneering sample before I start in on my CW's.

The decorators from Todd have 3/4 backs, K55 mids. I like their construction and parts makeup better.

Does anyone out there have a favorite Heresy combination?

Michael

Over the last 20 years I have owned 4 pairs of Heresies, all with slightly different internals. All were Heresy 1's (removeable back, drivers mounted from inside). Of those, the very first ones I bought are the only ones I still own. I have to admit that part of the reason is that they are far and away the best Looking of the four pairs, but none of the others sounded better so they all went and these stayed. They have: Type E-2 Crossovers, K-22-K Woofers, K-53-K Squawkers (Plastic horns) , and K-77 Tweeters. I replaced the 1/2" back panels with 3/4" several years ago, but the originals are stored safely in the closet.

ps. Pictures? [:D]

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The Horn section. I finished the wood completely, then masked off the inside of the cabinet cutouts and around all the openings very carefuly. This allows the black paint to also cover the edge of the veneer, giving a very sharp detailed edge. Notice how the black just kills the light. I think it looks badA$$!

post-10755-13819274273994_thumb.jpg

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I used the SEM satin black auto vinyl top paint to toughen up the bleached cones. Same black paint was used on the edges of the cutouts and I used it on the cabinet backs. One $10 can. The finish was a wipe on poly type. I'll get the can from the garage.

post-10755-13819274274504_thumb.jpg

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A Little finish problem, there were a few blemishes, I don't know what caused this, it popped up on the first coat of clear. THink I'll have to sand down to raw veneer and bring it back up. Maybe a bit of glue on a rag or ????

Theres a few small chips of tear out where Todd did the edges, but overall I think he did a super job witht the veneer for a first try.

I know, block sand carefully and don't go deep!

I have another pair of standard Heresy I's that I'm going to practice on before working on 5 Cornwalls. I plan on getting my technique totally down before hitting the BIg Boys.

post-10755-13819274275354_thumb.jpg

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Here's the innards showing the rope caulk and lightly convoluted soft foam that Todd provided me with. I cut the foam to tight width with util knife and used the entire length of piece that he gave me. It butts tight to one corner, then around non-xover side, up over the top, then jams up tight above the tweeter. A friction fit, there's no staples or glue there. Sounds great!

post-10755-13819274276078_thumb.jpg

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A Little finish problem, there were a few blemishes, I don't know what caused this, it popped up on the first coat of clear. THink I'll have to sand down to raw veneer and bring it back up. Maybe a bit of glue on a rag or ????

Theres a few small chips of tear out where Todd did the edges, but overall I think he did a super job witht the veneer for a first try.

I know, block sand carefully and don't go deep!

I have another pair of standard Heresy I's that I'm going to practice on before working on 5 Cornwalls. I plan on getting my technique totally down before hitting the BIg Boys.

Michael,

I'd have to say that for sure, that the blemish is titebond II adhesive. Initially, I was afraid to sand it out, and I still am. This may be the one side, in which I learned a valuable lesson. You need to remove excess adhesive completely from the face of the veneer, before it dries or is ironed on. My fault on that one. On your next project, remember to do the bottoms first, that way any learning curve is played out on the pc. you won't see, much.

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I've got to try to sand out that line of glue, it really bothers me. Couldn't see it when raw, but the first coat of clear and out it popped. Are you saying that it was ironed into the wood grain? It might not ever sand out if it's in deep but I'm gonna try some tests- I'll be gentle.

The photos are a bit more red than they actually look, but the first image of the whole cabinet is the most representative of color. It's more of a dark 'nutty' walnut color without any gold or red at all.

Michael

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I've got to try to sand out that line of glue, it really bothers me. Couldn't see it when raw, but the first coat of clear and out it popped. Are you saying that it was ironed into the wood grain? It might not ever sand out if it's in deep but I'm gonna try some tests- I'll be gentle.

The photos are a bit more red than they actually look, but the first image of the whole cabinet is the most representative of color. It's more of a dark 'nutty' walnut color without any gold or red at all.

Michael

Michael,

Each side represents just 1 pc. of veneer. Therefore, if you want to sand it back down to the substrate and start over, then have at it. Otherwise, I would just leave it alone, as I don't think it'll come out, unless somebody knows of some of a chemical that will cut through the titebond II, leaving the wood grain in tact. And that thought is only after you carefully remove the outer coats of finish. Michael, I'm truly sorry about this, but to me, the faces on these babies are flawless and the corners sharp and I've seen much worse. Put some badges on these puppies, and get started on your next pair. I can tell you this: if you start on another pair and they are not decorators, you have a much easier go of it, because you can buy the 3/4" edge banding product and the facia stays black.

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Todd, Greg or others,

How much do you think that Titebond sank into the veneer in that one spot? Even with heat applied, that's pretty thick glue, I'll be some careful sanding could at least minimize that band of off-color or feather the edges a bit so it's not so noticeable.

Todd, I'll take your suggestion and not attack this spot unless I hear that it's pretty possible to minimize this effect. I'd hate to butcher up the finish even worse trying to minimize this.

It looks like there's enough veneer there for a pair of slanted riser bases. But I'm in no hurry. Maybe on your next trip up this way I could meet ya for lunch and blast your eardrums one more time....

btw, congrats on those beauty LS's. Now aren't you glad you waited it out and didn't con me into selling mine? See you came out much better. AL3's- dude I'm jealous.

Michael

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