brokenarrow1 Posted February 19, 2006 Share Posted February 19, 2006 When changing the cross overs is there soldering involved? I am real scared of doing harm to my Rf-7s I have four. What are the costs of the crossovers/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duke Spinner Posted February 19, 2006 Share Posted February 19, 2006 What ever You do .... don't E-mail ......[] seriously now ,... he's listed his phone below this post's , I belive .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunburnwilly Posted February 19, 2006 Share Posted February 19, 2006 Try Smoke Signals , it worked for me ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted February 19, 2006 Share Posted February 19, 2006 Dean should check into these people. http://www.outsource2india.com/why_india/articles/call_centers_india.asp Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arky Posted February 19, 2006 Share Posted February 19, 2006 Brokenarrow1 You have mail. JT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted February 19, 2006 Share Posted February 19, 2006 Expect a couple of days before responses. I prefer to get caught up the workshop before lining up any new work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arky Posted February 19, 2006 Share Posted February 19, 2006 Dean I sent him the instruction sheet on removal/replacement. JT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockbobmel Posted February 19, 2006 Share Posted February 19, 2006 Dean I sent him the instruction sheet on removal/replacement. JT JT, can you send me the RC-7 inst and parts list? Thanks Much, Bob M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted February 19, 2006 Share Posted February 19, 2006 www.partsexpress.com 027-866 027-890 005-2 005-10 Keep this one simple -- stay away from the LF section. You'll understand when you pull it out. I used to do it -- but not anymore! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arky Posted February 20, 2006 Share Posted February 20, 2006 Bob What I have is instructions on removal that Dean gave me. Nothing about parts. I wasn't going to attempt the upgrade myself, that's his job. If you still want it i'll be happy to send it. JT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockbobmel Posted February 20, 2006 Share Posted February 20, 2006 Bob What I have is instructions on removal that Dean gave me. Nothing about parts. I wasn't going to attempt the upgrade myself, that's his job. If you still want it i'll be happy to send it. JT Sure, that would be great. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockbobmel Posted February 20, 2006 Share Posted February 20, 2006 www.partsexpress.com 027-866 027-890 005-2 005-10 Keep this one simple -- stay away from the LF section. You'll understand when you pull it out. I used to do it -- but not anymore! Thanks Dean. I ordered them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockbobmel Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 www.partsexpress.com 027-866 027-890 005-2 005-10 Keep this one simple -- stay away from the LF section. You'll understand when you pull it out. I used to do it -- but not anymore! Hey Dean, Do you run the 005-2 and 005-10 in parallel like in the 7s? I have the parts, but I cant open the speaks till about 9;30 TONIGHT. it is 5:20 now. Forward Thanks, Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 Yep -- same deal. You'll see 3.75uF on the HF board, and the Kimber is a 3.6 -- it's O.K., every Kimber or Auricap I ever measured came in at 3.7 -- close enough! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockbobmel Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 Yep -- same deal. You'll see 3.75uF on the HF board, and the Kimber is a 3.6 -- it's O.K., every Kimber or Auricap I ever measured came in at 3.7 -- close enough! I got it done. I just want to make sure that you mean the 2UJ 10W resistor next to the 18uF cap NOT the ones I just changed, Right? Quote:"You'll need to parallel the 10 and 2 ohm resistor together to get the 1.66 value that goes in place of the single 2 ohm resistor next to the 18uF cap on the HF board -- this is the "mod" that brings the horn's resonant peak down." Thanks Much Dean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockbobmel Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 Yep -- same deal. You'll see 3.75uF on the HF board, and the Kimber is a 3.6 -- it's O.K., every Kimber or Auricap I ever measured came in at 3.7 -- close enough! I got it done. I just want to make sure that you mean the 2UJ 10W resistor next to the 18uF cap NOT the ones I just changed, Right? Quote:"You'll need to parallel the 10 and 2 ohm resistor together to get the 1.66 value that goes in place of the single 2 ohm resistor next to the 18uF cap on the HF board -- this is the "mod" that brings the horn's resonant peak down." Thanks Much Dean. bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 "I just want to make sure that you mean the 2UJ 10W resistor next to the 18uF cap NOT the ones I just changed, Right?" I'm not sure what you mean by "NOT the ones I just changed", but yes -- tack a 10 ohm resistor to the 2 ohm resistor next the 18uF cap -- just like you did with the RF-7's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockbobmel Posted February 24, 2006 Share Posted February 24, 2006 Dean, this is what I did. 1, replaced the Kimber 12.0 and 3.6 caps. then the 2 ohm resistor at the opposite side of the board (by the 18Uf cap) with BOTH resistors (10 & 2)) in parallel. Your directions sound like I was supposed to ADD the 10 to the existing 2ohm(white). I left the 2ohm (white) one by the replaced caps alone. I hope I did it right........ Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockbobmel Posted February 25, 2006 Share Posted February 25, 2006 Dean, this is what I did. 1, replaced the Kimber 12.0 and 3.6 caps. then the 2 ohm resistor at the opposite side of the board (by the 18Uf cap) with BOTH resistors (10 & 2)) in parallel. Your directions sound like I was supposed to ADD the 10 to the existing 2ohm(white). I left the 2ohm (white) one by the replaced caps alone. I hope I did it right........ Thanks. bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockbobmel Posted February 25, 2006 Share Posted February 25, 2006 Dean, this is what I did. 1, replaced the Kimber 12.0 and 3.6 caps. then the 2 ohm resistor at the opposite side of the board (by the 18Uf cap) with BOTH resistors (10 & 2)) in parallel. Your directions sound like I was supposed to ADD the 10 to the existing 2ohm(white). I left the 2ohm (white) one by the replaced caps alone. I hope I did it right........ Thanks. bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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