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Cornwall Questions


OldSkool

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I have a few questions for you good folks:

Im reveneering my '78 Cornwalls and was wondering if anyone had

replaced the OEM speaker wire connections with a different setup? (the connectors on the back cabinet door)

And if so, what did you use? Also, would this detract from

their value to alter them in this manner?

Secondly, I want to repaint the area under the grilles black

again; is there a type & color or type of paint that works

best to get the OEM look?

Thanks in advance for any info. [:)]

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OldSkool,

I'm in the middle of taking some empty cabs and purchasing all the parts to fill them. I'm also laying some veneer on them. I'm also going to add some WAF improvements to them. I will be veneering the motorboard with rift sawn red oak, well the whole cabs will be that. I suppose I'm not as concerned with keeping them stock as some people are. I want them to look good in my living room. I'm building them for my enjoyment not the potential resell value. I want something that looks nicer than two big plywood boxes sitting in my living room. (Sorry, no offense Klipsch or anyone who loves them the way they are)

As far as connectors go? I'm upgrading to something like this.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=091-1154

091-1154m.jpg

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Also, would this detract from their value to alter them in this manner? [:)]

I think ya may have a couple years, til' these would be viewed as priceless, on the Antiques Roadshow.[:D]

The value is in the sound. They're big and ugly to begin with, so any mods to enhance the appearance or updates to the internal wiring scheme, should be taken for the better.

Furthermore, using WBT, Cardas or the likes, is surely worth a mention at resale, as apposed to "Original (obsolete)screw type connectors".

A painted baffle behind a grille, is a painted baffle behind a grille......... Flat Blk?

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A painted baffle behind a grille, is a painted baffle behind a grille......... Flat Blk?

I think "satin black" automotive spray is the one to use. It has a little sheen, and is a harder finish that flat black.

Connectors? I kept the tap-blocks on my '78 Cornwalls, and used lugs like these on my old Monster Cables. It's not like I'm swapping out speakers very often. [;)]

095-670m.jpg

I think glass tops on Cornwalls go a LONG way toward improving the WAF, too, which counts as a noticeable sonic enhancement (that high pitch whine is missing).

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Exactly, they are marginally better looking than shipping crates.

Some of us find the "packing crate" look of C/BR's (and especially LaScala's) attractive.

It's kind of like when new art arrives at the museum, you open the crates to see the beauty inside. With the C/BR's, you "unpack" them when you turn on the amp. [:)]

FYI: Birch LaScala's actually look a lot like some of the modern sculpture by Donald Judd (next time you drive through Marfa, check it out).

AW1692.jpg

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Oh I know.. beauty is in the eye of the beholder. [:)]

That's a sculpture? It looks more like a storage rack of some sort. What is it a sculpture of? I'm not trying to sound like a smartarse, I'm asking because I'm not sure what it's supposed to be.

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Oh I know.. beauty is in the eye of the beholder. [:)]

That's a sculpture? It looks more like a storage rack of some sort. What is it a sculpture of? I'm not trying to sound like a smartarse, I'm asking because I'm not sure what it's supposed to be.

It's just supposed to be a "sculpture", that's all.

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Thanks for the suggestion on the connectors.

As for the paint and changes affecting value I see it like this:

I know nothing about Klipsch stuff. I have no prior

info about what owners/collectors like or want or what people have done

before. I figured others had crossed this bridge before and I

would gather a little input before re-inventing the wheel.

Of course its all about the sound, but heck if Im going to take

time to do all that cosmetic work I might as well do a little

reconnasaince (sp?) and see what the buzz is from those who know more

than I do. Further, I have no intention of ever selling them, but

my wife or son might if I cash in the chips early. So I figured

Id throw some questions out and see what comes back and not do

something stupid from ignorance. My wife is a teacher and tells

me all the time, "theres no such thing as a stupid question" - so

I throw stuff out all the time.

So thanks again and keep it coming. Im all ears.

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I hear you 100% on being sure before you decide to make lots of cosmetic changes. It's only been in the last couple of weeks that I came to the decision I did with mine. I felt the same way, what if the changes I make turn people off if I ever decide to resell them. I just thought to myself.... So what? There are bound to be others who are looking for some Cornwalls that are in the same boat I as when I started working on them. Great sound (from what I've been told) but they are not very easy on the eyes.

I simply decided to make them be what I wanted.

Go for it... [:)]

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Further, I have no intention of ever selling them, but my wife or son might if I cash in the chips early. So I figured Id throw some questions out and see what comes back and not do something stupid from ignorance.

Since Klipsch made so many of these designs over many years, there are lots of variations, inside and out. The older they are, they more valuable they seem to be, and original condition seems to be very important. Some of the variants, like the vertical Cornwall seem a bit more collectible. However, the 1970's and 1980's seem to be the peak of Klipsch production of these products, and I'm not sure there is anything you can do to recondition them that will hurt the value. They don't have any interest for collectors, the average speaker buyer isn't sophisticated or smart enough to pay a reasonable price for them, and any hifi enthusiast will consider your efforts to bring the speakers into better playing condition to be of value at resale.

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Further, I have no intention of ever selling them, but my wife or son might if I cash in the chips early. So I figured Id throw some questions out and see what comes back and not do something stupid from ignorance.

Since Klipsch made so many of these designs over many years, there are lots of variations, inside and out. The older they are, they more valuable they seem to be, and original condition seems to be very important. Some of the variants, like the vertical Cornwall seem a bit more collectible. However, the 1970's and 1980's seem to be the peak of Klipsch production of these products, and I'm not sure there is anything you can do to recondition them that will hurt the value. They don't have any interest for collectors, the average speaker buyer isn't sophisticated or smart enough to pay a reasonable price for them, and any hifi enthusiast will consider your efforts to bring the speakers into better playing condition to be of value at resale.

My def colleague is quite correct. Unless they are of a vintage era (say 50's to early 60's), a rare wood type, or decorator style, they have little 'collector' value. Therefore do whatever you wish within reason. Some mods are reversible, reveneer and drilling are not. But I think all but the most anal collector would appreciate having more heavy duty jacks for inserting today's larger gauge wiring.

If you get the ones I suggested, PM me, I have a marked drill bit for those. There is a knurled area on the shaft that inserts directly into the 3/4 ply- you want the hole to be a nice tight fit.

Michael

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OldSkool asked for my install instructions for the Banana/wire jacks pictured below. Here's what I'm doing to my CW/ H speakers.

Remove the back panel of the speaker and disengage the input wire from the crossover so the panel is free from the cabinet. Snip the wires loose from the terminal block on the panel and save wires for later use.

Remove terminal block. Using 17/64 drill bit, drill a straight hole through ONE of the existing wire holes. The spacing for double banana plugs is different than the two holes you see. Using a dual banana plug, locate and mark the position for the second hole. Drill it through with 17/64 bit

Now is a good time to put a bit of wood putty or caulk into the spare unused hole.

To install the jacks, first unscrew the two retaining nuts and remove wire lug, nuts and washers.

Determine a common red/black orientation. I use Right for red, which will be the positive lead.

Insert the red stem, screw the knurled knob all the way down. The hole size is enough for the fluted portion of the shaft to grip the wood tightly enough that it will insert, but will not turn. This is important.

To fully insert the shaft, I place a 5/8 socket over the knurled knob and tap gently with a hammer to seat firmly. This prevents marring the gold plating. Install the black shaft the same way.

Turn back panel over, install lock washer, nut and tighten firmly.

Remember the wire harness you saved? You can either use it or make up one of similar length from heavier wire, silver wire, or clothesline- I don't care what you use. Crimp and solder identical spade lugs on the xover side, solder the back panel side to the gold lug that came with jack.

Install wire/lug, 2nd lock washer, and 2nd nut. Tighten firmly. Do both terminals the same. Remember to reconnect to the crossover, maintaining polarity. Good time to check all internal connections, note condition of crossover caps, and make notes of drivers installed in this speaker. Check all speaker and horn screws for tightness. It's a tune-up innit?

If you wish to test the polarity, connect a D battery cell to a dummy wire with the post of the battery to the pos/red speaker terminal. Contact with the battery will cause a THUMP and the woofer should jump OUTWARD. If it come inward, something is backwards.

That's it. Finish whatever mods you wish and fasten rear panel back in place.

Enjoy your Klipsch Speakers!

Michael

post-10755-13819283660822_thumb.jpg

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