jwc Posted April 30, 2006 Share Posted April 30, 2006 edit: see later posts for the schematic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted April 30, 2006 Share Posted April 30, 2006 Now the only monkey wrench in this plan that I can think of is the depth of bob's horn and K55. The horn alone depth is 10 3/4. With the driver that adds 3 inches for a total of 13 3/4. The internal depth at the middle of the cabinet is about 13 1/2 inches. I would think that your K55 driver would be "lower" or in the "bottom half" of the cabinet. You follow me here? jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chops Posted April 30, 2006 Author Share Posted April 30, 2006 Yes, I see. However, I thought that this horn/driver combo was supposed to be able to fit in a non-modified CW? It doesn't really matter. We can shave an inch or two off of the width of the enclosure and make it a little bit deeper. All I really care about is keeping the same air space as the CWs. In fact, the air space has to be increase just a little anyway due to the much larger squawker horn anyway. So maybe we can make the top depth 17" and the bottom depth 19.75", retaining the same angle for the motorboard. Also, here's a couple more nasty looking sketches. One straight on the motorboard and the other looking into the cabinet with the rear panel removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted April 30, 2006 Share Posted April 30, 2006 Depth of the Pyle horn with driver is only 11 inches. Should fit fine even after the slant. I would go with the original dimensions of a Cornwall plus 1/4 inch depth. That makes up for the additional volume of the Pyle horn. Then just add to the bottom dimension and take away from the top dimension. That will keep the volume the same. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chops Posted April 30, 2006 Author Share Posted April 30, 2006 Great, now my pics aren't working either. This new forum software sucks. Anyway, I don't know how or why, but for some strange reason, that picture you made just randomly popped up for me to view. After about 10 seconds, it just vanished! Now I can't get it to show again. But yes, that's exactly what I'm talking about jc. I'll PM you my email in a sec. Charles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted April 30, 2006 Share Posted April 30, 2006 Chops. Do you see the image I posted online. By your response, I couldn't tell. The image I posted should work with Bob's horn and driver and account for the volume change. Is a 10 degree upward angulation right for your room? Yes, deeper and wider can be done but I'm not sure it is necessary. I can't see what you posted...its the server you see! jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chops Posted April 30, 2006 Author Share Posted April 30, 2006 Chops. Do you see the image I posted online. By your response, I couldn't tell. The image I posted should work with Bob's horn and driver and account for the volume change. Is a 10 degree upward angulation right for your room? Yes, deeper and wider can be done but I'm not sure it is necessary. I can't see what you posted...its the server you see! jc jc, Yep, I saw it for a little bit. It looked good to me. Although, I did notice that that CT125 you drew looked more like a K-1000 out of a Short Horn. LOL sorry, just kiddin'. [][] Bob did say though that there does need to be just a little added volume due to the larger size of the Pyle horn. Charles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted April 30, 2006 Share Posted April 30, 2006 Yes, depth of the Cornwall size cabinet increases by 1/4 inch to account for the volume. Did you and jc read my post about the Pyle horn and driver depth? Bob Crites Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chops Posted April 30, 2006 Author Share Posted April 30, 2006 Yes, depth of the Cornwall size cabinet increases by 1/4 inch to account for the volume. Did you and jc read my post about the Pyle horn and driver depth? Bob Crites Yes sir. I was about to mention the fact that I was just looking at the Pyle horn on top of the CW and could see that there's a couple inches of extra space there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted April 30, 2006 Share Posted April 30, 2006 Wow, you guys are cruising right along here. I went out to the shop and looked at a 10* angle, looks good. I recently did some Walnut Heresy risers, I think they were 7*. Just used factory dimensions front and back and measured the angle. I'd recommend cheating the volume up a little to allow for some extra bracing on the large panels. Also, I like to make the glue block strips that mount the front and back to be 1.5" x .75" rather than .75" square. If this is going to have a TV or something sitting on it I'd also prefer to make an internal vertical brace or two to support the top panel. These don't have to be elaborate, just something to help support the weight. I don't see any attachments on these posts now but they're likely to appear at some point. Klipsch is using MS Windows stuff for both the front and back end of the site plus the .net crud, so something probably needs to be rebooted again. I think that's also the reason it's often so slow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chops Posted April 30, 2006 Author Share Posted April 30, 2006 Wow, you guys are cruising right along here. I went out to the shop and looked at a 10* angle, looks good. I recently did some Walnut Heresy risers, I think they were 7*. Just used factory dimensions front and back and measured the angle. I'd recommend cheating the volume up a little to allow for some extra bracing on the large panels. Also, I like to make the glue block strips that mount the front and back to be 1.5" x .75" rather than .75" square. If this is going to have a TV or something sitting on it I'd also prefer to make an internal vertical brace or two to support the top panel. These don't have to be elaborate, just something to help support the weight. I don't see any attachments on these posts now but they're likely to appear at some point. Klipsch is using MS Windows stuff for both the front and back end of the site plus the .net crud, so something probably needs to be rebooted again. I think that's also the reason it's often so slow. Well there's their first major problem right there. They shouldn't be using MS for anything. LOL, but anyway... Tom, there won't be anything on top of the center channel except for the occational kittie. That's a good thing though because it keeps the dust off of it also. [] If you want to give it a little more air space for the larger glue strips, that's fine, but I'm not sure about extra bracing. I am going to be mounting the drivers from inside the enclosure so I don't know how that would work with the bracing in there. I'd need easy access to the drivers. If you've a few tricks up your sleeves for that, I'm all ears! [] BTW Tom, did you get my PM that I sent your earlier? Thanks, Charles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted April 30, 2006 Share Posted April 30, 2006 Charles and Bob. I emailed you both the schematic. Yes Bob, I read your posts. The schematic already accounts for the larger volume displacement. The length should be fine. If Tom can do a 10 degree bevel on both ends of the motorboard, then this would be the way to go. The volume is perfect and the port can be a Cornwall port. I will explain this part in more detail if you are serious about building this. Tom mentioned bracing some panels. Bracing is good in general however, nothing with this build is any more vulnerable than the Cornwall resonance. So if you are satified with the Cornwall sturdiness...don't mess with it. jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chops Posted April 30, 2006 Author Share Posted April 30, 2006 Thanks for the email jc. That's what I saw earlier, but only for a brief moment. Yes, I am very serious about building this (or having it built rather[:$]) cabinet and would like any details that would be needed to make it a successful build. And I'm fine with the stock Cornwall sturdiness. I feel if there's too much bracing involved, then it might sque the sound of the center from the CW cabinets. But who knows for sure. At any rate, I am very excited about this entire project and am extremely greatfull of all of the excellent help being offered from all angles. Honestly, I don't think I could ask for anything more... Well, maybe a couple million $$$ to stash away in the bank. [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted April 30, 2006 Share Posted April 30, 2006 Yes, I got your PM as an email. I answered, did you get it? I don't trust the forum to deliver reliably any more. I sent you my gmail address. Are we doing this like a regular Birch Cornwall, butt joints? The Cornwalls I have are Walnut, but my Heresy's are raw Birch. We could do mitered joints at the top and overlap the sides over the bottom. This is the way I built my Belle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chops Posted April 30, 2006 Author Share Posted April 30, 2006 Yes, I got your PM as an email. I answered, did you get it? I don't trust the forum to deliver reliably any more. I sent you my gmail address. Are we doing this like a regular Birch Cornwall, butt joints? The Cornwalls I have are Walnut, but my Heresy's are raw Birch. We could do mitered joints at the top and overlap the sides over the bottom. This is the way I built my Belle. Tom, Unfortunately, I never received an email or PM from you. Hmm... Anyway, I was just wanting the regular butt joint raw birch design. That way, it would be the same as my CWs. Charles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 I re-replied to your PM, see if it shows up. I sent my email address, it's tmoble at gmail daught cahm. I'm sure you can figure out the anti-spam stuff. If you get it please reply with your email address so we can by-pass the forum message delivery stuff altogether. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chops Posted May 1, 2006 Author Share Posted May 1, 2006 I re-replied to your PM, see if it shows up. I sent my email address, it's tmoble at gmail daught cahm. I'm sure you can figure out the anti-spam stuff. If you get it please reply with your email address so we can by-pass the forum message delivery stuff altogether. Hi Tom, It took me a little while, but I replied to your email, via email. [] Thanks, Charles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 there must be a black hole lurking nearby, I still haven't gotten your email. did you send it to the gmail address? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chops Posted May 1, 2006 Author Share Posted May 1, 2006 did you send it to the gmail address? Opps! [:$] Try it now. [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 Looks like I can post pics now. Here is the schematic for the record. jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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