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False corners K horn


IndyKlipschFan

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With all of the diagrams and ultra importance of exact sweet spot positioning and the WEIGHT to do so anyhow on K horns.. That said.....

Has anyone made a bottom and sides cabinet to screw into K horns to provide the Optimum seal that could then be used to position them anyway you wanted for any particular room?

The new anniversary ones had a sealed back that looked like a no brainer to duplicate and sounds WONDERFUL! I have heard it myself, we could argue all day how much different, I will say dramatic.... but the purists look back to the dope from hope pages too.

I know dean G talked about this before.... Anyone do it cost/ looks/ performance thoughts?

I am seriously considering the sealed 60th anniversary deal to my K horns, but also wonder how far to take it?

approx price, anyone else do this as a kit.. anyone want to maybe get rid of theirs?? dean G?

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It seems pretty straightforward to do...making it look pretty would be a matter of one's veneering abilities.

I do remember that sales dude (forgot his name) mentioning that the

60th anniversary version did require a crossover change. I forget the

actual change, but wasn't there also talk of them selling an upgrade

kit? I believe Klipsch is willing to do most anything if they can get

at least 50 orders up front. I think a flat kit + crossover parts would

be mega cool.

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Yes, I made a set of k-horns in 1986 with the false corners built into the cabinets. The cabs were 20% over size, and had an 18 inch driver.

I used them on a parade field during an outdoor picnic with 3000 folks attending.

While I realize not having full corners did not make the best of the design, the low end was more than enough.

I had a pair of bridged SAE 501 power amps. Bridge mode they could put out 700 watts per channel. I recall never going over 64 watts on the led display.

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From a previous post:<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

My problem was two-fold, and my solution was simple. My narrow townhouse does not have one, let alone two, good corners for the mighty Klipsch horn loudspeakers. Bass is excellent, but only by virtue of the 48-pound amplifier running the bass bin. In the largest room in the humble abode, the living room, the Khorns sit only 4 apart! The left one has no corner and the right one abuts a sliding glass door. The affect is less than their magical best.

My solution was to cut two 36 by 80 solid-core interior doors, found at the hardware store with the orange aprons, in half with a small jig saw. This made four wall sections, each 40 tall. I taped up their rough bottoms and painted them the same color as the living room walls (orange-ish Dessert Yellow). I covered them with clear lacquer, which tinted them more yellow than the walls but I like it! At an actual 1 ¾, each wall is thicker than two ¾ plywood walls in thickness and does not need sheet-rock or wall tape to finish the exterior or the edges. Each wall stands up by itself, but just to be sure, I steadied each one with a small brass latch and hasp. With this arrangement, each wall can be un-hinged from its partner in the corner. Because of their manageable size, moving them is not a problem.

No criticisms please the project is done. What was supposed to a quick four-hour solution actually consumed the better part of two days (mainly waiting for coats to dry) and trips to the hardware store for more paint and lacquer. I should have used a primer coat to soak into the wood before the more-expensive custom blended color. And I may upgrade the small latches to something more substantial someday. The back edges, where the Khorn meets the corner, are covered with thick, but soft, plumbers tubing insulation. This could give the Khorns a tighter fit into the corners, but angled the way they are, the seating is pretty loose.

Yet their affect is immediate. The single biggest benefit so far is pointing the classic Khorns directly towards my ears widening the soundstage and giving the singer and instruments room to play. Therefore, I would have to say the imaging is also improved. Instruments that were crowded behind the singer now appear beside her. Of the complaints about the Khorn monster, one is their size (a necessary evil for their lean and accurate bass). Another is about the shockingly shallow, but usually incredibly wide, soundstage. This solution resolves this major audiophile faux pas.

Plus, the deep bass might a shade better. I did not measure it before and after, since this was not why I built the walls. I did not even think of it until I noticed a little more rumble than I remembered. No pictures yet, but some should be coming.

post-2689-13819304642136_thumb.jpg

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Colin

The post you put up is about implementing a detached false corner that is in contact with a standard k-horn. Simular to the dope from hope false corner article. Your re-post, shows an alternative implementation of creating false corners using door stock rather than the 2X4 construction reviewed in the dope from hope article.

However, a different implementation of doing this is the method of actually attaching panels to the k-horn bass bin which follow the k-horns lines. Simular to how the 60th aniversity k-horn bass bin is constructed, The subject of this thread.

I constructed a set of k-horns in 1986 using the attached panel approach. I have also seen cabs for sale on e-bay in which the contruction method used this approach.

Question is if this is worth doing a mod kit for? Consideration should be given to the extent the attached method really solves the problem vs the detached-in contact method.

To be fully effective the flase corners need to extend beyond the k-horn cabinet. Doing so with attached panels, would make the k-horn base bin look alot like the jubilee base bin.

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I made some false corners to suit my HT setup. I too wanted to be able to control the location of the sweet spot. I have found my corners to be better than the plain drywall corners. You can see pictures of my corners here: http://www.prontoweb.com/klipsch_HT.htm

I am almost finished acoustically treating my room and will post those pictures when I get done. Barring a room with concrete corners, I don't think I could beat the mass and density of the corners I made. The corners were made with two pieces of 3/4" plywood, sandwiching a 3/4" MDF sheet. Each corner is very heavy. The bottom portion is another 3/4" sheet of plywood.

I did not screw or permanently attach the corner to the speakers. I don't like to make permanent mods to my Khorns.

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The following, in blue is, from a previous post (False corners screwed into K horns?http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/401946.aspx):

Permanently attached false corners worked for me.

I know this is heretical, but in the mid 70s I used four Speakerlab SK-Horns powered by a Dynaco ST-400 for a mobile DJ business. Knowing the speakers would be moved often and that real corners would not always be availableread NEVERI used the plywood shipping crates to make false corners attached to each speaker.

I never measured the difference in bass response between placements in real corners and freestanding with the false corners, but there appeared to be no difference. In either configuration the bass was prodigious and tight. One customer who called to schedule a return engagement asked if the price quoted included the drummer. It was all I could do to convince her that there had not been a drummer at the earlier engagement.<?XML:NAMESPACE PREFIX = O />



The one time I met PWK he was surprisingly diplomatic about my confessed use of the Speakerlab copies. He allowed that it was better to subject the impostors, rather than real Khorns, to the abuse of 600 watts of SS power, junior high students and frequent assaults by hand-truck.



Actually, they were perfect for the task. Unloading four black plywood obelisks never failed to impressneither did the sound. Invariably, as the first speaker was unloaded, someone would ask, Is that the speaker? to which I would reply, Yes. There are three more.



The size made it impossible for someone to walk off with one of the speakers when my back was turned. I did have to put hardware cloth (wire mesh) over the mouths of the squawker horns and over the backs, to prevent mischief. Once a napkin had been stuffed into a squawker horn and another time a kid unscrewed an Atlas squawker driver. I got it back after the principal of the school announced that there would be no more dances until it was returned.



If I ever supplement my Cornwalls and Hereseys with Khorns, I will again go the affixed false corner route.

Another thread that dealt with the topic is: Who made the Drivers for the Speakerlab K's, http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/533168.aspx

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