mark1101

I have posted this at times in the past. There may be minor updates in this version concerning filter differences between different DSP units. These are all the DSP settings I have known Roy to share for UG Jubs, "Jub-scalas", and MWM variations. If there are more, I don't have them. Roy's Jub settings.pdf

Any reports from the Bonehead class? Any pics? So how was it?

Hopefully, he got the rattle taken care of sometime in the last 16 yeas.

Have you tightened the tweeter and squawker horn mounting bolts at the front of the cabinet? If loose the bass horn could cause a buzz in the upper cabinet. I have seen loose tweeters in lascalas but not loose squawkers. But it is still worth checking. You might as well make sure the woofers are tightly mounted as well. That will be a PITA to check.

Everyone with Lascalas, any lascalas, will have new life when the new Klipsch horn subs come out. The only Klipsch Heritage I have heard sound better than lascalas with the new prototype subs are UG Jubs, and Heritage Jubs. It makes that big an improvement. The lascalas with a Heritage horn sub were just a tiny click below the UG Jubs. Those new subs make all the difference in the world and have the DSP, crossover, and amp all built in. Plug and play. Stick with the lascalas by all means, and absolutely get yourself a new Klipsch horn sub when they come out.

That's funny. No one knows how to operate this place.

Still looking for some help.

Please message me and I'll let you know what I need. Thanks.

I would not spend all that money and not get the DSP whether by AL5/upgrade, or AL6 outright. The DSP is considerably better sounding than the passive solution. As was just mentioned, there are respectable multi-channel amps out there that simplify things. The other item you should save your nickels for is an upcoming Heritage sub. You will need that and then you will have an incredible set of speakers. Last time I looked it was about a 5 year wait to get another Decware.

While I don't know this for sure I suspect that buying any future Heritage with DSP, we are going to need some way to make any additional wanted adjustments. We know now that you can't get into the Klipsch DSP for any adjustments. I know Roy is using the same DSP for the new lascalas and Khorns. One option would be to use the provided passive networks. But after the comparisons we heard I would still get the Klipsch DSP and have an additional one for further adjustments.

The settings "as is" would sound different in everyone's space as they were derived in the chamber. You need to adjust for the room unless you use the speakers outdoors. These Xilicas also have a graphic EQ section which I have used with great success in balancing the measurements within my room. As I recall it didn't take much. A few tweaks here and there. I haven't touched them in a long time.

But you have to know how to use them. As I stated earlier I place a huge value on Klipsch support........providing the settings. YMMV.

If these so called Chinese versions are found to be equivalent to the Canadian branded ones, I'd say they are worth every penny at those high Ebay prices. The Canadian units are clean, quiet, quite analog sounding, absolutely bulletproof, have a great PC tool UI, and interface well with home and pro audio gear. Plus, Roy has provided settings for UJ on the XP units. I would be interested in comparing to the originals. Hopefully the same.

You never know what's going to happen in these situations. We just need to wait and find out.

It doesn't matter what it is you will still need a sub. 🙂

I have a good K33 but it has a round magnet.

There is quite a difference between Klipsch passive networks and their DSP solution. Once you hear the difference you would not want passive. True, the DSP adds complexity. But that is easily managed and once setup is complete.

Well then I'd vote for a cornwall V with the same woofer section as cornwall IV, and the AL6 tweeter and mid horn/driver, and a DSP crossover. 👍

Based on the AL-6, AK-6, and new Heritage horn subs and all required for the Marketing releases of these products it would would probably be 3 years or more before a new cornwall could come out.

I agree, this is turning out to be "if the owner can live with it".

I'd like to see Decware's measurements on a lascala. I'll be back in this thread in a couple of weeks with mine.

Any chance you could tell us your dad's name? Some of us may have known him. Feel free to message me if you would rather have this be private.

Well I got my two SE84UFO amps after the 2 1/2 year wait. I'll just save a lot of typing and state that I have them connected to a pair of lascalas in monoblock fashion and both amps hum exactly as the last 6 pages of this thread have discussed. I have tried everything mentioned here and I am absolutely positive the hum is simply a design defect as both amps do it about the same with no inputs connected. Tubes have been swapped from amp to amp and some have been replaced (input tubes and rectifiers). Nothing changed. Before doing the above I tried with and without preamps, DAC direct, using just each amp in stereo. I replaced RCA cables, and Y jacks (for monoblocking). I tried cheater plugs. I have also read everywhere on the internet about Decware hum and in Decware forums. The darn things have the sweetest sound, tight bass, 3D sound stage, extreme clarity...........and in between songs hum loudly in the room like a defective unit. My speakers have had recent Klipsch K77 and K55 replacements from Klipsch parts, known good K33 woofers, and the AA networks have had the JEM caps installed. My NBS preamp and VRD monoblock combo on these lascalas is near dead silent. I still am not sure what I am going to do with these. I have a lot of time off around Xmas and plan some measurements to understand if this is 60, 120, etc.........and how loud it actually is. I know this hum won't be going away.

No matter..........GET THE SUB.

When we were in Hope Roy discussed exactly how to swap the doghouse, it comes right out.......you actually can get a whole new doghouse with the 12" woofer and ports already installed as part of the upgrade package. Or....you can leave the 15" woofer and doghouse as is. You can op to just change the top horns and drivers. This can be done to any lascala. The new tweeter is much bigger and some significant routing and maybe even tweeter trimming would need to be done. But it's possible. If you chose to replace the top horns/drivers and the doghouse the only thing left of an AL5 is the outside frame and top hat. It's really quite a job to upgrade to an AL6. Several of us basically said just get the new lascalas, as you also mention. By the time you try and replace the doghouse you may scratch the heck out of what's left and you have to hope the new doghouse matches the veneer you have. Knowing what I know from being there, I would never try it.