Groomlakearea51 Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 Just some photos of the two pairs of Heresy-I HBR's restoration project that I started months ago. The original panels were a mess and the glue had completely dried; bad chipping, ply separation, and weird staining by the original owners. I had numerous problems with the new birch plywood sheets. Although allegedly "furniture grade" birch, the initial sheets had so many problems with poor finish, I ended up going to another source for the wood, and throwing at least one complete 4'x8' sheet away. Even the new sheets are a little "hairy". Furniture grade is allegedly at least a smooth 150 "grit" texture; but the best sheet I got is maybe 120 and has "cheek fuzz". The wood, although the photos don't show it yet, do have good patterns, and the wood for the rear panels has some very unusual matching "cat's eyes". Once they are finished, and BB'd, stained, and then Watco'd, or tung'd, they will show these unique patterns Also in the pictures, you can see that I had problems with blade "burning", (using a very good 120T blade with a Dewalt 746??), but very light sanding removes that (tested). We believe it's related to the humidity here. Second problem was the wood warping about after being cut(?). Again, humidity is the likely culprit. Solved that by cutting and then placing the replacement panels in the oven at 160 degrees, sandwiched between two scrap panels with dive weights on the top... for about 2 hours, then in the garage "high and dry" for about a week. During the measurements and disassembly of the old, we measured the braces exactly as the factory braces, but they just did not fit tight. Rather than just "dolloping" glue or filler in the joints (like they were...), I cut exact "wedges" or slices, some of which were only 1/64" thick. But once installed, and the seams sealed with glue from the rear, the cabinet will be properly airtight. The original HBR's had 5 finishing nails, top and bottom, along the side panels. The nails were recessed and filled. If you look at an old pair of HBR's you can see these nails. Rather than filling with putty, etc., I cut and contact cemented small dowels from birch toothpicks (yes, "designer" birch toothpicks!!). That's why they look like "pinhead" from some old scfi/ horror movie. They will be cut and only a very small amount (hopefully almost undetectable...) amount of stainable birch filler putty will be required. The filler on the edges (looks like fungus) is for those pesky little gaps in the plywood layers. They just don't make furniture grade plywood like they used to... The correct factory spec OPEX/ Valspar primer, the factory spec #40 sheen SSG laquer is in, but I'm still waiting (for over three months) for the #40 sheen clear. Cannot understand why a major paint company local distributor cannot obtain simple clear production laquer.. So I went in a couple days ago and ended up having some "words" with the manager. It started with a simple, "Has the birch putty I ordered two months ago come in yet?". It just degenerated from there, and it end up with the, "She's in charge, not the ex-employee who was helping me, and that what's in the store is all that's available unless I want a large (55 gallon...) quantity, and she does not have time for "small" special orders" crap. So I drove 90 miles round trip to the Home Depot for the filler.... Oh well..., gotta call OPEX in North Carolina on Monday and go from there. Even the veneered Klipsch have that clear coat of #40 laquer to protect them.. In any event, as soon as the sanding is done, I'll post some "pitchers", and everyone interested can tell me to (a) leave them as "nekkid" BR's, ( go for the BB finish (original plan), © or a nice cherrywood (or something) stain. My wife (Wife Acceptance Factor...) is heavily leaning towards the stain..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 29, 2006 Author Share Posted October 29, 2006 getting there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 29, 2006 Author Share Posted October 29, 2006 still getting there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 29, 2006 Author Share Posted October 29, 2006 almost there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 29, 2006 Author Share Posted October 29, 2006 Getting close Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klipschaholik Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 Nice work there! You've really got a bucket full of patience. My vote for a finish is to put something clear on that won't yellow with age. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 A dumb woodworking question... When working with plywood, can you effectively make a dovetail joint as easy as you can when working with solid wood? If so, why have I never (knowingly) seen that done (other than the appearance of the end grain)? If not, why not? is it a shortcoming (for lack of better word) with the plywood? If you're FIRST goal is to make a strong box (say a travelling stage speaker) wouldn't that be the way to go? I know it would cost more, but if you're making it yourself then to me, the cost is a smaller issue. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 Take a look at this joint that Chris (popbumper) made on the set of Cornscala II cabinets he made for me. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 30, 2006 Author Share Posted October 30, 2006 A dumb woodworking question... There are no dumb ones left; trust me, I have asked all the dumb ones lately...... Actually I'm working on more dumb ones, or so said one of my woodworking "consultants".... When I get off work and walk in their shop, they run.... When working with plywood, can you effectively make a dovetail joint as easy as you can when working with solid wood? You can, (see Mr. Crites' post), other reason was that this is the "first" Heresy project for me and I picked the H-I's because they are simple, or less complex. My experience level is building with each step. If so, why have I never (knowingly) seen that done (other than the appearance of the end grain)? The other reason, or my primary goal on this project is to "resurrect" these two pairs to the exact (if possible)way they came from the factory. That's why the whole issue with the braces, laquer, etc. The next Heresy project will be somewhat different.... If not, why not? is it a shortcoming (for lack of better word) with the plywood? There are problems with plywood, but I'm still in the "routers" 101 course, and while passing the course, there's a lot of homework.... If you're FIRST goal is to make a strong box (say a travelling stage speaker) wouldn't that be the way to go? These will be "bookshelf", look nice, "please my wife" only. The original H-I cabinet, all things considered, with the driver board and rear panel installed, is actually quite strong, particularly for a "home" application. I think they are actually much stonger than the H-II's which relied very heavily on the glue not deteriorating over time. I know it would cost more, but if you're making it yourself then to me, the cost is a smaller issue. It's an experience issue more so than anything else at the moment! I have learned an immense amount over the last six months (almost more than I care to remember sometimes....) I'm slowly but surely building up a supply of H series drivers, and when I have what I need, i'm going to make a pair of "custom" Heresy cabinets with different construction methods, and appearance changes (why not!.. wood's cheap, the moment is priceless...). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 30, 2006 Author Share Posted October 30, 2006 Take a look at this joint that Chris (popbumper) made on the set of Cornscala II cabinets he made for me. Bob Beautiful!!!! Eventually I hope to be able to do something like that!!! Looks like the wood just grew that way....!!! I'm seriously considering edgebanding them if I stain them though. I also saved one full sheet of veneer with some fairly good, but not aggressive, matching patterns and may do the top panel and the bottom panel to match the edgebanding; then stain them like HCO (Cherry veneer). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 31, 2006 Author Share Posted October 31, 2006 Next Stage: 120 grit to remove putty fungus; still some small gaps in the plys; I've really learned a lesson here; spend the extra money and get picky and irate when they wheel out a sheet..... Then take it back when it shows up these ply gaps.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 31, 2006 Author Share Posted October 31, 2006 Next Stage, Part-2: Final "fungus" removal; final fungus used was "plastic wood"; I have found that it really works better in the small holes, especially thinned about 10% with some acetone. Final sanding is with 220 grit; first stain will be very fast and wiped to get a feel for how fast the wood takes the cherry wood stain. Then a 320, another really fast stain, then see how it looks (call my wife to look and keep my fingers crossed...); then another if she says too light, if not, final 400 and then clear #40 sheen laquer; maybe a 600 "polish" run; don't know yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 31, 2006 Author Share Posted October 31, 2006 Quick note: driver board will be black OPEX laquer primer like from factory. Rear panel will also be OPEX'd. Reason; grills are black (WAF again...). Gotta compromise.... I have a really, really nice pair of brown grills, but really need another pair to match..... Anybody have a brown pair to swap for a black pair? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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